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Old March 7th, 2013, 02:33 PM   #1
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IMMEDIATE help, please!

So I went to hook up a DVD player to the navi unit today and now I have a HUGE issue.

The car starts and runs just fine.

Navi comes on. Everything else that I installed has been taken back out and everything back the way it was.

After about 4 secs the cluster dims, there is no ODO or trip, RPMs, gauges etc.

The shifter is stuck in PARK unless I put the key in the key hole next to the shifter and manually put it in NEUTRAL, then restart the car. It drives/reverses fine but still no cluster

My sunroof and other switches aren't working

My brake lights work (was thinking I blew the brake switch)

My headlamps work but when you turn them on, the cluster stays at its dimmest setting - still no gauges.

I checked every fuse in the driver footwell AND engine compartment. All are fine, none are blown.

:dunno: wtf is going on!? Please, somebody, help???? I have to leave for work at 3am!

Additional notes:
For the power to the DVD player, I tapped my ACC and GRD to the cig lighter and the 12V directly to the wire that my fogs are hooked up to (comes directly from the battery)

Video: Car is running - you'll see the cluster dim
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dW78a1_8LJw

So more investigating:

The harness to the brake switch


Only the RED wire is getting 14V. All of the other three (WHT+BLK STRIPE, BROWN, BLACK) have 0.00 readings.


The gray connector you see in the middle, that connects to the shifter, has 0.00 readings on all wires!
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'07 EX-L HFP V6 Coupe w/ Navi - "Tawonda"
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Old March 7th, 2013, 02:36 PM   #2
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wish i can help, ben. don't really know what's going on. hope you get it fixed tho.
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Old March 7th, 2013, 02:50 PM   #3
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Did u check all your fuses? Under hood and driver side
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Old March 7th, 2013, 02:53 PM   #4
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I had similar problem with my car a while back.

1.Cluster didn't work
2.Fan was working but no AC
3."The shifter is stuck in PARK unless I put the key in the key hole next to the shifter and manually put it in NEUTRAL, then restart the car. It drives/reverses fine but still no cluster"

I also checked everything and everything seemed fine. I finally give up and took it to a car electrician that I know. It took him around 5mins to have it working again. It cost me $20. I asked him what was the problem that I couldn't fix but he said "I can't tell you". I totally understand why he wouldn't tell me. From what I saw it had to do something with the car computer. Don't take my word tho as I wasn't allowed near the car while he was at it.

Anyway, I suggest you take it to a pro as well. You can still drive the car around but just be careful with speed. I don't think it recorded any km while the cluster was out on my car .

You must have done something wrong for this to happen because I did something wrong by accident which caused all of this on my car. Won't go in details.

Last edited by MM49; March 7th, 2013 at 03:11 PM..
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Old March 7th, 2013, 03:18 PM   #5
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Wow that sucks Ben. Maybe it something went wrong with one of the wiring?
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Old March 7th, 2013, 04:16 PM   #6
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Du3ce: lol obviously you didn't read the OP very well

Well I ordered a new brake light switch, as it's a known culprit for causing the shifter to lock. I don't know if that's something to do with the cluster acting the way it is or not? :dunno: I manually pushed in/out the white plunger though, and couldn't really hear the "click" everyone speaks of. So maybe it is shot? For some reason, there is no power getting to that harness you see in the middle of the console.

MM49: Thanks for the info! Very helpful. If this switch doesn't fix it, I guess I'll slump my way to the dealership to have them rape me w/ hourly charges and diagnostic fees

I talked to my mom and I have her car to borrow (while she bums a ride, I feel bad) for work tomorrow & Saturday. I work at 4am and have an hour commute each way...so it's not like I have many options in "Hey, friend...buddy ol' pal...can I hitch a ride?" lmao

Hopefully it arrives by Saturday (or Monday) at the latest - it's coming from Son's Honda in GA. So I'm guessing 2-3 days. Even my local dealer said he'd have to order it and it wouldn't get here til Tuesday! Plus they wanted almost twice as much ($15 vs Son's $9)
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Old March 7th, 2013, 04:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreaminAccord View Post
Du3ce: lol obviously you didn't read the OP very well

Well I ordered a new brake light switch, as it's a known culprit for causing the shifter to lock. I don't know if that's something to do with the cluster acting the way it is or not? :dunno: I manually pushed in/out the white plunger though, and couldn't really hear the "click" everyone speaks of. So maybe it is shot? For some reason, there is no power getting to that harness you see in the middle of the console.

MM49: Thanks for the info! Very helpful. If this switch doesn't fix it, I guess I'll slump my way to the dealership to have them rape me w/ hourly charges and diagnostic fees

I talked to my mom and I have her car to borrow (while she bums a ride, I feel bad) for work tomorrow & Saturday. I work at 4am and have an hour commute each way...so it's not like I have many options in "Hey, friend...buddy ol' pal...can I hitch a ride?" lmao

Hopefully it arrives by Saturday (or Monday) at the latest - it's coming from Son's Honda in GA. So I'm guessing 2-3 days. Even my local dealer said he'd have to order it and it wouldn't get here til Tuesday! Plus they wanted almost twice as much ($15 vs Son's $9)
I can almost guarantee that brake switch won't do anything. Waste of money if you ask me. Like I said earlier I had the same problem and the guy who fixed it didn't change anything on my car.

You don't have to take the car to the dealership. Take it to someone who does electrical stuff on the car. The person I take my car to also does audio installation. You get the idea. This will be much cheaper than dealership.

You can drive the car around without an issue. What I did was follow the flow of traffic.

Last edited by MM49; March 9th, 2013 at 03:35 PM..
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Old March 7th, 2013, 05:51 PM   #8
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Sorry to hear you're having issues with the ride, Ben. You've probably already checked for a loose connection, but that's the only thing i can think of or something is disconnected.

Good luck finding the problem bro.
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Old March 7th, 2013, 06:51 PM   #9
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Okay guys, major updates/progress. BTW, I was able to directly connect the NEG and POS terminals together for 10 secs (20 the second time trying) and no hope. Lead me to believe we're back to a connection/electrical issue rather than a ECU one.

I pulled codes and the only 1 present is P0155 (oxygen sensor) but basically b/c the car has been idling and not being driven. It'll erase as soon as I drive it again - forgot to mention it in the OP b/c 155 was insignificant and I was rushing.

So, other things I noticed:

Dash illuminates like normal when first started, then after 5+ seconds goes completely dim. Still no gauges (I'm talking Speedo, Gas, Coolant...EVERYTHING is completely bottomed out)
Wipers do not work. (again, wiper fuse is perfectly intact).
Power Windows do not work.
Sunroof switch illuminates but does not function.
GPS stays on "Finding Satellite signal" forever (way more than 10 minutes as I had it idling for almost 20) and the radio never got "Enter Code" point. (I did enter the Navi code though)
VCS and Foglight switch does NOT illuminate

So right away I go down and start investigating the foglight (aftermarket) harness - this is the place I tapped into for a 12V (direct battery power) to power the 12V wire for the DVD player originally.

I notice that where I tapped into was no longer making a connection from the battery side to the fuse side. I thought "Uh AH!! Bingo!!" Ran inside, got some electrical tape and my all-in-one wire splicer/dicer/thingy-ma-jig. Spliced both ends and directly twisted them together (just for now to make SURE they're connected) and taped them. Cut off the side at the battery and gave it an all new ring connector. Reconnected that to (+) battery terminal. Go turn car back on. No difference. Foglight switch still isn't lighting up.

So I grab my multi and start testing everything and anything (grounds, connectors, you name it. Just varifying grounds are grounds, and 12V's have 12-14V). The wire from the battery to the point past where I newly twisted them together all has 14.1V - okay, great So now I go to where the major fuse on the harness is. Now, I had pulled this fuse earlier to check it, so don't think I skipped that part before. I have checked every and ANY fuse I can find/think of. The looped wire has 14V on both ends. Good. However, and this is where I'm calling it quits for the night...the red wire that goes down and connects to my Share-A-Fuse w/ the PWR PASS WINDW has 0.00V

So I'm thinking possibly, JUST possibly that huge long 30A fuse on the cheap harness blew, even though it doesn't look like it. I'll have to stop in some place tomorrow and see if I can find a replacement. If that isn't the issue...the hunt continues
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Old March 7th, 2013, 07:24 PM   #10
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Fuse 21 which is IGN METER fuse located driver kick panel. I know u said that u checked the fuses but pull it and replace it with a different one. That fuse has everything that your saying is wrong in common.
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Old March 7th, 2013, 07:43 PM   #11
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Old March 7th, 2013, 08:21 PM   #12
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YOU are a GENIUS!!! It fixed it! Man thank you sooooooo much! I can't thank you enough!
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Old March 7th, 2013, 08:28 PM   #13
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Glad I can help.
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Old March 7th, 2013, 08:32 PM   #14
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reason i love this community.
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Old March 7th, 2013, 08:35 PM   #15
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send him 5 bucks for his trouble lol. new guy FTW
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Old March 7th, 2013, 08:52 PM   #16
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Great stuff! I guess it was a fuse after all.

@Dolla

If it was the fuse why did the fuse check out okay while he was testing it?
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Old March 7th, 2013, 09:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Did u check all your fuses? Under hood and driver side
i stand corrected
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Old March 7th, 2013, 09:23 PM   #18
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reason i love this community.
Exactly. 100% agreed.

Quote:
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send him 5 bucks for his trouble lol. new guy FTW
Sheit, I'd gladly! No offense MM but that is why I didn't jump on rushing to a pro...I always keep at it until I have to drag myself to a mechanic. I'm a fix-it-myself kind of guy. Having forums like this to bounce ideas around greatly helps at that, also.

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@Dolla

If it was the fuse why did the fuse check out okay while he was testing it?
Sometimes a fuse can be blown without showing obvious signs. When you're checking over 50 fuses, I'm too blame for probably quickly looking at the peak (weakest part that usually shows it's obviously blown) and not the entire fuse. Popped in a new one, reassembled everything and took her for a 10 minute spin, kissing the steering wheel every few feet! haha

Thanks again, DoLLa! You sure saved me a few dollas!
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'07 EX-L HFP V6 Coupe w/ Navi - "Tawonda"
Graphite Pearl / Black Leather
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White Orchid Pearl / Black Ivory Leather
(Purchased 5/18/17)
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Old March 7th, 2013, 09:31 PM   #19
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Exactly. 100% agreed.



Sheit, I'd gladly! No offense MM but that is why I didn't jump on rushing to a pro...I always keep at it until I have to drag myself to a mechanic. I'm a fix-it-myself kind of guy. Having forums like this to bounce ideas around greatly helps at that, also.
So am I and no offense taken. I checked out every single thing like 10 times before I went to him(not a mechanic btw).


Quote:
Originally Posted by DreaminAccord View Post
Sometimes a fuse can be blown without showing obvious signs. When you're checking over 50 fuses, I'm too blame for probably quickly looking at the peak (weakest part that usually shows it's obviously blown) and not the entire fuse. Popped in a new one, reassembled everything and took her for a 10 minute spin, kissing the steering wheel every few feet! haha

Thanks again, DoLLa! You sure saved me a few dollas!
Makes sense.


Oh well I guess I too should've asked around here. Honestly, I didn't mind spending my $20 for it because at that time I was relieved it was not something worst.
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Last edited by MM49; March 7th, 2013 at 10:57 PM..
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Old March 8th, 2013, 02:28 AM   #20
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Sometimes a fuse can be blown without showing obvious signs. When you're checking over 50 fuses, I'm too blame for probably quickly looking at the peak (weakest part that usually shows it's obviously blown) and not the entire fuse. Popped in a new one, reassembled everything and took her for a 10 minute spin, kissing the steering wheel every few feet! haha

Thanks again, DoLLa! You sure saved me a few dollas! [/QUOTE]

Frustration can be a motherf**ker! Lol. I'm a mechanic or better yet a "technician" by trade. I learned patience quickly. Over looking a fuse will drive u nuts and its happened to me more than once. "saved u a few dollas" hence the name.
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Old March 8th, 2013, 02:41 AM   #21
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Great stuff! I guess it was a fuse after all.

@Dolla

If it was the fuse why did the fuse check out okay while he was testing it?
I've seen a fuse test good but when I pulled it out, the tooth that goes into the slot was cracked. The 2 poles at the top of the fuse test good but no contact was being made.
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Old March 8th, 2013, 11:40 AM   #22
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I've seen a fuse test good but when I pulled it out, the tooth that goes into the slot was cracked. The 2 poles at the top of the fuse test good but no contact was being made.
Makes sense. Thanks.

Anyway, you have a pm I need to know something off you.
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