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Old April 9th, 2013, 09:31 AM   #1
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just goes click

car just goes click when i try to start but heres the kicker......batt test out just fine at auto zone... it dies if it just sits to long idling..... im thinking alternator.....but wouldnt the batt be dead if the alternator was gone? im stumped and my car is broken down in a circle k parking lot........ should i buy a new batt to get enough cranking amps to get it runnin then to try and test the alternator? im assuming not the stock batt from back in the gap since its a bosch..

06 av6 ex 68k miles
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Old April 9th, 2013, 09:33 AM   #2
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sounds like alternator
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Old April 9th, 2013, 09:34 AM   #3
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have you tried jump starting? If the car starts with a jump it could be the battery.

If the battery is still good and charged, the car would start. A bad alternator would just mean that the car wouldn't run for very long bc the battery would drain right out.

Another possibility is the starter motor perhaps?
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Old April 9th, 2013, 10:02 AM   #4
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tried to jump and no go.....
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Old April 9th, 2013, 10:20 AM   #5
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Alternator
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Old April 9th, 2013, 10:29 AM   #6
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no chance maybe the starter? i may try the old tap on the starter trick when i can walk my ass back to the gas station lol
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Old April 9th, 2013, 11:05 AM   #7
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wow, same thing just happened to me today. Idled for 3 minutes then turned it off. Tried to turn it back on. It did about 3 of those slow cranks and then just a click I can hear with the hood open.
Got a jump and it still wouldnt start, even with the other car given a steady load at 4k rpm for 2 minutes.
We were stumped. So I jumped back into the car and kept trying to start it while the car was still connected to the jump leads to the other car and eventually the slow crank started up again. Except this time it got stronger and on the 3rd try boom the car started.
From beginning to end all the lights worked. The headlights worked. The Windows went up and down as quickly as they've ever done.

My guess so far is the alternator not charging and the battery is really dead as far as the starter is concerned. That starter must take a lot of juice to turn. It too might be dying. I'm going to check my alternator and battery with my multimeter when I get home.
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Old April 9th, 2013, 11:15 AM   #8
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Alt
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Old April 9th, 2013, 11:25 AM   #9
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looks like ill get a new batt, then get it home. pull the alt and go get a new one. then pull the starter and check it.
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Old April 9th, 2013, 11:43 AM   #10
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damn why spend money on new battery you said your battery was good
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Old April 9th, 2013, 11:47 AM   #11
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i mean i used the el cheapo batt meter from autozone. those things measure surface charge not under a load. plus i can't WORK on it in the parking lot of circle k....... i have to get it home to work on it and even then, its cheaper for a batt then to tow. im just stumped as to why jumper cables, even letting it charge, wouldnt crank it up......
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Old April 9th, 2013, 12:47 PM   #12
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im just stumped as to why jumper cables, even letting it charge, wouldnt crank it up......
Yeah I don't get that either. I can't figure it out and its happened to me twice already. I've jumped completely dead batteries in cars before and the cars turn over pretty quickly eventually. This car just continues to click once when you turn the ignition no matter what.
Like I said I think its the alt or starter. Just get it home first
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Old April 10th, 2013, 08:38 PM   #13
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it was the starter. all good now
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Old April 10th, 2013, 10:20 PM   #14
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Nice...I'm changing the starter on mine too.
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Old April 11th, 2013, 10:10 PM   #15
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Mine did that today. Turn the key, no crank, just click. None of the instrument panel lights dimmed, neither did the headlights when I tried to start it. Other than a 4 way lug wrench, I didn't have anything to whack the starter with, just couldn't get enough room to hit it with what I had. Got towing on my insurance, had it towed to Pep Boys (it was late afternoon and they are open until 9). Service manager tried to start the car, same thing. Click. Mechanic came out with a Thor sized hammer, hit it a few times, it started right up. And then kept starting. They checked the charging system, battery and starter and all checked out. Mechanic said he could change or sell me a starter but didn't see a pressing need to. Told me that generally, when a starter is about to die for good, once you hit it the first time, you pretty much have to keep doing that to start it. But mine started 20+ times in a row. Some right after another, others minutes apart. Paid the $18 for the diagnostic fee and went home.

Still starting fine, but I'll look around on craigslist for someone parting out an Accord and snag the starter.
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Old April 12th, 2013, 08:59 AM   #16
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Mine finally gave up the ghost in my driveway today. You're right Scottwax not a lot of room to smack that thing! Unfortnately its pouring outside, so when it stops raining i'll use my 2 foot screwdriver as an extension to hit it with a hammer.
Looks like i'll have to take off the intake manifold to remove it easily. Time to put on my TSX manifold that has been sitting in a box My weekend is set lol
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Old April 12th, 2013, 04:59 PM   #17
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I have the V6 so access is better but not that good for a 4 way lug wrench! Been starting fine all day so far.
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Old April 15th, 2013, 09:23 AM   #18
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Ok so I changed the starter. What a pain to get to that was!
Everything is fine again. New tsx manifold is in, HELLO midrange!
New starter is very quiet compared to the OEM one I had. When I shook the old one you could hear the failed bearings rattling in it.

Symptoms of my (and OP's) bad starter for people searching this thread...
1) Occasional no start, just a click (very audible click with hood open).
2) Occasional slow start. Struggling to start. Feels like a dead battery.
2) All warning lights are on (key in ign position) and bright as normal.
3) All interior and exterior lights work with very little or no dimming.
4) Horn works, power windows work. Everything is fine but no start.
5) Load tested battery, passed. Battery is 1.5 years old.
6) Voltage is good on battery and alternator.

The OEM starter seems to give you plenty of warning before it leaves you stranded. Problem is most people think its the battery. I got a complete no start situation a year and a half ago with the oem battery. I'm pretty sure now that it was the starter giving me its first warning shot and not my battery, but I changed the battery back then. Its been that long before it finally, completely, gave up and in that time I probably had 2 similar no start situations. Turning the ign again would usually fix it. Until last week lol.
So there you have it.

Oh FYI, its much easier to smack the starter with a hammer or an extension on the V6 and pre facelift I4 I believe. On the 7.5 gen there is an intake resonator behind the manifold that blocks you from getting to the starter. You have to somehow reach under the intake manifold and smack upwards. Good luck with that

Last edited by yal; April 15th, 2013 at 12:40 PM..
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Old April 15th, 2013, 10:35 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yal View Post
Ok so I changed the starter. What a pain to get to that was!
Everything is fine again. New tsx manifold is in, HELLO midrange!
New starter is very quiet compared to the OEM one I had. When I shook the old one you could hear the failed bearings rattling in it.

Symptoms of my (and OP's) bad starter for people searching this thread...
1) Occasional no start, just a click (very audible click with hood open).
2) Occasional slow start. Struggling to start. Feels like a dead battery.
2) All warning lights are on (key in ign position) and bright as normal.
3) All interior and exterior lights work with very little or no dimming.
4) Horn works, power windows work. Everything is fine but no start.
5) Load tested battery, passed. Battery is 1.5 years old.
6) Voltage is good on battery and alternator.

The OEM starter seems to give you plenty of warning before it leaves you stranded. Problem is most people think its the battery. I got a complete no start situation a year and a half ago with the oem battery. I'm pretty sure now that it was the starter giving me its first warning shot and not my battery, but I changed the battery back then. Its been that long before it finally, completely, gave up and in that time I probably had 2 similar no start situations. Turning the ign again would usually fix it. Until last week lol.
So there you have it.

Oh FYI, its much easier to smack the starter with a hammer or an extension on the V6 and pre facelift I4 I believe. On the 7.5 gen there is an intake resonator behind the manifold that blocks you from getting to the starter. You have to somehow reach under the intake manifold and smack upwards. Good luck with that
glad yall got everything up and running! thanks for the compilation of tell tale signs for future starter faileeees lol
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