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Old June 6th, 2015, 12:26 AM   #1
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got 8 ABS related codes. could use lotta help

long story short, was involved in a no fault collision and now my:

ABS, exclamation Icon, and TCS lights are on

never had an issue w/any of them.

codes i get are all ABS related, visual check, nothing looks damaged since its on right side and damage was primarily left drivers side


after reading through Threads, thought it could be front wheel speed sensor but codes said both Rear sensors.


1. main question: can any one describe what the Rear sensors look like? i've looked at Manual and was able to locate front

2. ABS, how often do these go out?

3. Brake Switch, should i get it?

any help is appreciated
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Old June 6th, 2015, 12:52 AM   #2
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update: went to Dealer and wanted to start w/biggest part being ABS Modulator and it retials at $1,100+!

found a way better deal on a used one and hopefully this will eliminate the issue. Found brand new Wheel Speed Sensors and will post update soon:

pic of part replacing:

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Old June 7th, 2015, 04:00 AM   #3
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out with the old (left) in with the new (right)




i expected way more brake fluid to come out and had plenty of towels but it wasn't too bad




what did require A LOT of towels and can be dangerous is bleeding or getting the air out of the lines


as soon as i finished w/install...the brakes were super spongy or soft


thanks to Shockfire10 on V6P:

"yea on the ABS modulator your four brake lines go into it. You get a friend to pump and hold the pedal down open the bolt on one of the lines till fluid starts flowing out then close it and let off pedal do this to each one about 5 times or until there is no air bubbles its hard to tell so i did each one 5 times. Its just like bleeding the calipers.


problem with brakes, ideas? - Honda Accord Forum : V6 Performance Accord Forums


performed the step w/ my bro in law and CAUTION, you can barely unscrew the 4 lines but depending on how far its unscrewed, it can produce a small fountain shooting upward. what i did was have towels covering the unit from the electrical attached to it, underneath, and of course, covering a small version of old faithful

Brakes feel like they should, no light so far so good but i'm pessimistic
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Old June 9th, 2015, 09:50 PM   #4
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after reading through some older threads, thought it could be the Starter

tried and remove this Bolt (circled red) and it snapped from being corroded



put in new Starter and tested Alternator as well, it passed all three tests


in regards to Starter and Alternator removal, both aren't too bad...a bit time consuming and one of the harder parts being removing the metal battery tray

got Engine Codes read again and most of the serious ones went away so hopefully moving in the correct direction


next step: Ignition, wayyy harder to remove, started w/replacing the IG Coil under the dash along w/the Fuel Relay. Will be replacing both Rear Wheel Sensors and hopefully this will help/solve.


it starts now but all 3: ABS, !, TCS still on
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Old June 10th, 2015, 11:12 PM   #5
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now this step would have to be LAST on any list if you have:

Car stopping by itself, Car not starting, Car idles but dies

this step requires drilling an Ignition bracket holding two non-movable Bolts and installing it to current Steering column w/new Bolts. Will also require getting a new Key made, Transponders for Keyless entry etc.


The piece i picked up still had the steering column attached but they will most likely be attached (Overall the design is a great feature Honda put in so someone can't just install a new Ignition Switch without some great difficulty)

it requires drilling w/a pretty good size bit removing these two Screws




it is impossible unless you saw off the Steering Column or drill those Two Bolts


basically drilled until you can use a flat head to kinda snap the head off of one (bottom one in pic, you can also gauge the size drill bit needed) Bolt is silver and gold on top to make it a tad easier to gauge drill bit size)




final pic of it off the Steering Column and just preparing for worse case scenario with this whole Car stalling, stopping on its own

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Old June 14th, 2015, 01:31 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JenerationX View Post
Yikes.... file this whole thing under stuff I wouldn't attempt on my own. Hope you're able to get it figured out.

slowly getting there, down to 4 misc. codes, after replacing Rear Driver's Wheel Sensor, still getting that code and 3 others

replaced the Throttle Body since taking off the part on the back (circled red) is not worth just buying the whole assembly since its sensitive and could break



fairly simple to remove, 4 bolts





then went ahead and installed a Fuel Pump, fairly easy and straight forward on our cars. very similar to this DIY where the hardest part by far is getting the Top Lock Ring off and back on


credits to Type-Spaz on HT:

Fuel Pump Instal DIY
Fuel Pump Instal DIY - Honda-Tech


almost exactly what ours looks like:




at the time all i had was my Haynes but it explained it fairly well, another word of caution, make sure not to damage the metal rod (circled red) when inserting into Fuel Tank


Last edited by 2i2dk1ny2i3; June 14th, 2015 at 01:41 AM..
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Old June 22nd, 2015, 03:40 AM   #7
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day 2 and the 2 parts i ended up not needing

ECU (ECM) & PCM






so what happened is i installed both. ECU would not work since its programmed and to my knowledge, gotta take it in to Honda or somewhere to get it reprogrammed, gave it a shot, no dice, put back one that was there


after replacing PCM, got the SRS Airbag light since the Airbags were deployed in the car it was removed from

so i did the procedure to clear the light after installing a PCM, Throttle Body, etc. but airbag light was still there, put back in old one again


after putting back everything and connecting both Battery terminals, remaining codes gone and haven't appeared.

i took off Neg. many times along w/taking both Terminals off, even tried something where you touch both terminals together to remove any residual juice

after unplugging ECM connectors (5) and PCM connectors (3), the remaining codes on the stuff i fixed like Rear Wheel Sensor etc. are gone and haven't come back


will be taking it in tomorrow to see if any codes pop up even though there isn't any lights showing

i also went and used an OBD to clear the TCS and that may have helped

so far so good
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