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Old September 15th, 2015, 07:47 PM   #1
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Question Engine Removal

On a 7th gen accord 6-6 the engine removal procedure in the repair manual calls for dropping the engine, trans and subframe from the bottom.

I don't really have a good setup to remove the engine with this method so I was planning on pulling the engine from the top. I'm swapping the engine and trans so removing the PS pump, alternator and motor mounts are tasks I will have to tackle anyway.
Given this, Is it a lot harder to pull the engine from the top? Any tips would be appreciated.
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Old September 16th, 2015, 02:09 AM   #2
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Never done a 7g 6-6 but some basics are evacuate refrigerant, remove the hood and radiator and have a buddy and an engine hoist and remove the engine and trans together then unbolt trans from engine.
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Old September 16th, 2015, 04:40 AM   #3
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Evacuating the refrigerant is not needed. Just remove the ac compressor and tuck it after removing the radiator. I've not done the work myself but I was there all 3x when Paul pulled my engine from the top. He use to drop the subframe, but not anymore.
Also:
Remove and tuck ps pump
Mark and remove vacuum lines
Remove axles
Remove hood or hood props and use a broom stick to prop it higher
Unplug engine wire harness, fuel line, shift linkage etc.
GL
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Old September 17th, 2015, 07:24 AM   #4
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Remove radiator? I've heard remove the radiator fans but not entire radiator .
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Old September 17th, 2015, 10:23 AM   #5
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Well after removing the water hoses which you have to do regardless, it's 2 screws on the top to get the radiator out with the fans as an assembly. The fans have the screws up top and on the bottoms. Plus you won't risk banging the engine into the radiator if you remove it and you'll get more room.
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Old September 17th, 2015, 05:03 PM   #6
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Well after removing the water hoses which you have to do regardless, it's 2 screws on the top to get the radiator out with the fans as an assembly. The fans have the screws up top and on the bottoms. Plus you won't risk banging the engine into the radiator if you remove it and you'll get more room.
Makes sense, it's a good tip, thanks
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Old September 17th, 2015, 08:10 PM   #7
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Np a lift would help but not required. GL
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Old September 18th, 2015, 10:52 AM   #8
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when i pulled mine i did everything from the top and removed the radiator and fan just because it gives you more room and you dont have to worry about damaging your radiator when pulling it. I also removed the front cat..

It is a good idea just to remove the ac compressor as well then you wont have to worry about having to recharge the system once you install again.
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Old September 18th, 2015, 12:15 PM   #9
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Everything has to come off and be transfered to the new motor anyway, anything I can access that will buy me extra room I'm going to go ahead and get out of the way. The compressor for sure has to come off, I'm thinking I'll go ahead and pull the side motor mount bracket, intake manifold, alternator as well as the radiator and fans.
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Old September 27th, 2015, 09:23 PM   #10
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I've got everything disconnected and am ready to pull the motor. It looks like I could run into a height issue if I don't lower the front of the car. It's currently sitting on jack stands on the lowest setting but that's got it up quite a bit higher then needed to remove the wheels meaning i would have to lift the motor very high. Any advice on this?
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Old September 27th, 2015, 09:59 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by TxRzrBk View Post
I've got everything disconnected and am ready to pull the motor. It looks like I could run into a height issue if I don't lower the front of the car. It's currently sitting on jack stands on the lowest setting but that's got it up quite a bit higher then needed to remove the wheels meaning i would have to lift the motor very high. Any advice on this?
Use regular size jackstands. Or use scissor jacks if you're able to carefully get the car on them and trust them. Or just put the wheels back on... assuming you can easily reattach the hub and shock and whatever you needed to remove to take the axles out.
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Old September 27th, 2015, 10:08 PM   #12
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Thanks. They actually are regular jack stands but given the location of the jack points its sitting way too high. Getting the wheels back on would be a little rework, I guess I'm gonna have to go with jacks and hopefully I won't need to get under the car again.
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Old September 28th, 2015, 12:02 AM   #13
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I'm not sure if these are verified lift points, but there are some frame/subframe points up near the front that usually work for me.

Either way if they're regular stands, check your lift height, maybe adjust how you're attached to the chain, stuff like that.
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