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Old September 23rd, 2015, 02:33 PM   #1
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Linear Solenoid Block Question

Is it a good or bad idea to use Hondabond or RTV sealant when replacing the gasket on the linear solenoid block? I took mine out for maintenance a while back when I was doing a 3x3FF and pressure switch swap and I reused the gasket. I'm thinking that was a mistake. I noticed a small amount of ATF on the AT casing and I'm thinking it was from the old gasket not re-creating a proper seal. Thoughts?
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Old September 24th, 2015, 01:01 AM   #2
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I would replace, AT parts are finnicky as they are, and ATF is robust.

What did the switches run you? Thinking thats not a bad idea here.
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Old September 24th, 2015, 08:45 AM   #3
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The switches were 30 each. I google searched the part #'s and found a company called SINS from Taiwan. They are very high quality and come with the crush washers plus they ship for free! I knew I f'd up when I took the block off and saw the condition of the gasket. I had no choice because you can't find them aftermarket so no Napa or Autozone trip for this one lol. I'm thinking stay away from the sealants and just use a little ATF on the gasket to form a complete air tight seal. I also found the Sonnax solenoid adjusting tool on line!
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Old September 24th, 2015, 04:06 PM   #4
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Just looked into that tool, interesting to see what it does... Have you actually adjusted it and of course marked your start/end positions?

If not, looks like you'll be down there anyway soon, i'd do a bit of research and maybe start off at 1/16 on one at a time to see what changes, especially since you're on stock fluid you may see diminishing gains.
Actually I will do some more research on those pressures and what they do, and if they make anything else for our transmissions to open up some passages like they do for the 2.3l
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Old September 24th, 2015, 05:51 PM   #5
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I'm ordering it tomorrow with the gasket too. I'm going to prob go to a 1/3 redline blend when I drain it.

I found an excellent thread on our AT's and the torque converter issues that go along with it. I've been using D3 all the time up to 40 cruising and 55-60 to get on it a bit and I must say, she has been responsive to it. Hard to describe it but it just feels proper.

I will make journal markings and prob go 1/8 turns to start. I am fairly certain I have some issues related to low line pressure. I will keep you posted on this but it prob won't be for a week or 2 bc I have to wait for it to ship and lock down some wrench time.
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Old September 24th, 2015, 06:39 PM   #6
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i saw replace it.
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Old September 24th, 2015, 06:40 PM   #7
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add a mangefine filter and a transmission cooler while you are at it. You will never have problems with the car s transmission ever
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Old September 25th, 2015, 12:42 PM   #8
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I wouldn't be dropping gear into d3 unless you really need to, it can cause some weird shifts if you're doing that as a downshift method to "get on it"
Felt great on mine till it blew up. That and the neutral shift.
Use d3 below 40, once you pass it, just leave it there until you stop again.
Also, the tool says to use 1/8 to 1/4 turn maximum, do you really want to get near maximum when you literally have no idea what you're doing.

Even a cooler can't stop this one from damaging. But yes if you're having issues, get a cooler, get magnefine, and load up a 5050 mix of either d4 or d6 and non friction modified redline on the next 3 qts you do.
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Old September 25th, 2015, 01:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oraclem19 View Post
I wouldn't be dropping gear into d3 unless you really need to, it can cause some weird shifts if you're doing that as a downshift method to "get on it"
Felt great on mine till it blew up. That and the neutral shift.
Use d3 below 40, once you pass it, just leave it there until you stop again.
Also, the tool says to use 1/8 to 1/4 turn maximum, do you really want to get near maximum when you literally have no idea what you're doing.

Even a cooler can't stop this one from damaging. But yes if you're having issues, get a cooler, get magnefine, and load up a 5050 mix of either d4 or d6 and non friction modified redline on the next 3 qts you do.
I don't use it to downshift. By get on it I mean modest acceleration not planning on letting up til I hit highway speeds. Around 50-60 I shift to D and it will hold (based on pedal position) until it sees fit to upshift. Once I'm under 40 and in D coasting and it downshifts on its own I put it back into D3 to hold until I've made my next "decision" on accel/decel (if that makes any sense). The reason I do this is because the car wants to down shift on most any incline at low speeds and it doesn't seem to understand the concept of coasting and holding gear (lots of sharpish turning and accel/decel without stopping or going below 30 or above 50) That's what I meant about it just feels right.

Also, I wouldn't say I have literally no idea what I'm doing lol. I'm going to replace the gasket and adjust the solenoids and see what that yields. Not sure if I want to replace my PS pump first or do the AT cooler first as I will probably be removing the heat exchanger completely and the adapter is like $145 + all the other pieces I'll need to gather.

Totally off topic here but, what model year did Honda go to electric PS on the accords? I really don't like the feel of it and if all the 8th and 9th gens have it I doubt I will end up ever getting one.
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Old September 25th, 2015, 02:33 PM   #10
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Hybrid gen7 has the electrical p.s my buddy adapted it to his 600whp 4 banger
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Old September 25th, 2015, 02:40 PM   #11
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Hybrid gen7 has the electrical p.s my buddy adapted it to his 600whp 4 banger
Do all the 8th and 9th gen accords have it?
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Old September 25th, 2015, 05:58 PM   #12
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your better off retrofitting one off of the same chassis. I am not sure if the gen8 or 9 has it
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Old September 25th, 2015, 06:24 PM   #13
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Retro what? The heat exchanger? I don't have access to a lathe or drill press or any manufacturing equipment t anymore. The adapter seems well designed and machined. When I'm on my work pc again I'll post the link to it.
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Old September 29th, 2015, 09:34 AM   #14
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Retro what? The heat exchanger? I don't have access to a lathe or drill press or any manufacturing equipment t anymore. The adapter seems well designed and machined. When I'm on my work pc again I'll post the link to it.
This is the adapter
Honda Acura Transmissions Cooler Adaptor Kit 5 Speed | eBay
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Old October 12th, 2015, 12:05 PM   #15
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Replaced the gasket and did the block adjustment.





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I haven't noticed any big differences but a few smaller things I did notice:
1. High RPM upshifts are very smooth and the next gear engages instantly with slightly less rev drop.
2. Down shifts are a bit more abrupt. Most noticeably when braking moderately to a stop.
3. P to R is instant. I always had a bit of a clunk when doing so and it seems much less pronounced now. I think 1/4 of a turn to start would've been ok for me to start but I'm going to see if this remains consistent
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Old October 12th, 2015, 12:07 PM   #16
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BTW, I looked high and low and couldn't find much of anything on the torque of the LSB bolts. I went with about 10ft/lbs. Any input on this?
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Old December 11th, 2015, 09:13 AM   #17
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Update on the adjustment:

I have had no issues so far and the shifting is very predictable and nice and firm. No clunks, hang ups or hard shifting. If your AT seems a bit tired, I would suggest this service be done.
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Old December 11th, 2015, 01:31 PM   #18
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Update on the adjustment:

I have had no issues so far and the shifting is very predictable and nice and firm. No clunks, hang ups or hard shifting. If your AT seems a bit tired, I would suggest this service be done.
How difficult are these to turn? Would something makeshift like a hex wrench sanded down to pentagon or a properly sized flathead be able to turn them?
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Old December 11th, 2015, 01:52 PM   #19
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Probably could do something like that. They weren't too difficult to turn but did require a little force. Its probably different case by case based on condition but I say go for it. The tool was like 14 bucks at rockauto if not. Just be sure to get the order correct because 1 is clockwise and the other is counterclockwise.
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Old December 11th, 2015, 02:36 PM   #20
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Probably could do something like that. They weren't too difficult to turn but did require a little force. Its probably different case by case based on condition but I say go for it. The tool was like 14 bucks at rockauto if not. Just be sure to get the order correct because 1 is clockwise and the other is counterclockwise.
Could you post up the link to the MFG site again? Would be a good thing to have on hand as I saw quite a few interesting things on there.
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Old December 11th, 2015, 02:38 PM   #21
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Yeah once I'm on my laptop again I'll find it.
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Old December 16th, 2015, 10:19 AM   #22
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Could you post up the link to the MFG site again? Would be a good thing to have on hand as I saw quite a few interesting things on there.
Here you go. Sorry for the delay. It's getting harder and harder to stay active here with, you know... life.

Solenoid Adjustment Tool - 88950-T - Sonnax
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