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Old June 2nd, 2018, 06:37 AM   #1
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Rod and/or main bearings shot - options?

So, I hear this loud ticking between 2,000 and 2,500 rpms and I was thinking the valve lifters needed adjustment, but 2 mechanics I trust said I need a new engine after listening for 10 seconds. One said the engine could "explode" and the second that I could "throw a piston". Then a colleague at work who's into racing said "It's quite spectacular when an engine blows at the track; smoke, fire, oil everywhere". YIKES.

So, my options are 1) junk yard 2) JDM and 3) rebuild.

Here's what I'm thinking about each option:

1) A junk yard pull would be just replacing one high mileage engine with another, so I don't want this option

2) JDM, well, ok low mileage, but we've all bought stuff on ebay that was junk when it arrived, so ordering a motor online seems high risk. I know there are importers here in Canada that specialize in JDMs (not sure who they are just yet). I you have purchased a JDM in Canada, I'd love to hear your story, the good and the bad.

3) Rebuild. Well, the mechanics talk about grinding the cam shaft to put it back into tolerances, but to my mind that weakens it. A rebuild does provide a chance to examine all the components though. I already upgraded the fuel injectors and spark plugs, so the top end is OK. New piston rings would be nice. I wish I could just purchase a new, OEM or better, Japanese built bottom end.

What would you do?
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Old June 4th, 2018, 12:14 PM   #2
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Personally, I'd go junkyard. You might have to dig, but there are a lot of J30's and J32's laying around these days and you should be able to find one in good shape with low miles.

There are potential issues with JDM engine swaps; specifically that they are designed for right drive cars so mounts and transmissions and stuff like that don't always line up. Not saying that's the case with the 7th gen Accord, but I'd definitely do more research before going out and buying a JDM engine.

Also, the JDM accord is actually the acura tsx. the Honda Inspire is Japan's version of the US 7th gen accord, but I am unsure as to what design differences there might be. But the Inspire is the only car you'll find a JDM J30A4 or A5 in.

Good luck in your search! I've (luckily) never had to do an engine swap on the 7th gen Accord specifically, and it's hard to find knowledgeable active posters anymore that'll answer questions.
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Old June 4th, 2018, 01:10 PM   #3
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I am currently in the same boat, except mine went from a slight knock around 2500 rpm to a balls out, smack smack smack smack noise at any rpm. I've pulled my engine out and I am now trying to source a replacement.

My problem is I have the 06 accord with the j30a5 and the ONLY other car that came with a j30a5 is the inspire, but that version of the motor has cylinder deactivation and the one in my accord does not.

I am currently trying to figure out if the inspire engine will work with my ecu and there is NO FREAKING INFO about this anywhere online... let me know if you find a source for one, or any info regarding whether or not a North American ECU from an accord will run the engine from an inspire correctly.
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Old June 4th, 2018, 02:45 PM   #4
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Rebuild or get a OEM short block assembly.


If the block is still good, it will need a hone, or maybe even a slight overbore. Over size pistons are still available from BK Honda.

If the block is not good, well then, it's your call. That sucker is $943 bare.


If you got $2500, you can get a OEM short block assembly
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Old June 5th, 2018, 06:40 PM   #5
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Benzeen Auto Parts in Rancho Cordova, CA. (Sacramento) has an '06 engine stock# 7209BL for $700. plus ship. benzeenautoparts.com 877 247-1717

Note: I have found these guys to be reputable when I bought my Acura intake manifold & throttle body.
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Old June 6th, 2018, 12:31 PM   #6
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I recommend just getting a used working block. It’s much cheaper and you don’t have to worry if anything else will fail because bearing material has enter where it shouldn’t have gone. Maybe time for an upgrade j32a3 or a j35a motor?
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Old June 6th, 2018, 05:17 PM   #7
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Speaking of getting a used, working block - I just picked up this j30a5 and when I got home I noticed this - should I be worried? Seems pretty sketch to me....

Edit: I will be returning this. It's a real shame as the rest of this longblock is CLEAN.




Last edited by steve2000; June 6th, 2018 at 06:16 PM..
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Old June 8th, 2018, 05:29 PM   #8
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Whoa it looks like they drilled and tapped some JB weld to fix accident damage on the motor mount bolt. Wow.. lol
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Old June 9th, 2018, 04:15 PM   #9
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Actually it looks like the pan bolt was too long for the tapped hole in the block. The real question is why was the pan removed in the first place???
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Old July 10th, 2018, 09:08 AM   #10
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I can see this thread is a month old now, but read through it, kind of surprised at some of the responses regarding jdm engines. They are a great option! I’ve been using them in different swaps for the last 20 years, been great!

If you a jdm long block, they mount the same! There is no difference for the engine mounts in left and right hand drive cars. I found out just last week, the cheap 6-6 coupe I bought a while back needs an engine too. So, a couple days ago, I headed off to a local supplier and picked up J30A for relatively cheap. The engine looks new, the metal, harnesses, plugs, everything. The only difference worth noting was the location of the vtec solenoid and pressure switch. Our cars have them down low on the passenger side by the oil filter housing. The jdm j30 has it on the drivers side, high up, on the side by the cylinder head....an improved design that Honda used on all its new j series powered cars, vans and suv’s, even here in North America. This is an easy modification as all you are doing is shortening a couple of wires, and connecting the to the newer plugs on the new engine. This is maybe a 15-20 minute job.

At the end of the day, this is a great option, you get a very low mileage engine, mine looks brand new. You pick up an extra 10hp because of 0.1 extra compression, and are still able to use your stock ecu with zero issues. I of course recommend you change out timing belt kit with tensioner, rear main seal, drive belt, and lastly a clutch if needed. It’ll cost about $1000 for everything and your labor to swap it, and will make good power and run for years afterward.
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