When changing the rotors for these cars, do you need impact driver? - Honda Accord Forum : V6 Performance Accord Forums
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Old April 20th, 2012, 01:58 AM   #1
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When changing the rotors for these cars, do you need impact driver?

When changing the rotors for these cars, do you need impact driver?

Are the rotors held in in any special way?
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Old April 20th, 2012, 07:29 AM   #2
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Maybe helpful to take off the lug nuts but other than that, no. The screw that you will see after you take off the wheel will be a pain unscrew, more than likely, it will be seized on and you may need to drill them out.
you will need to unbolt the brake calipers to to take off the rotors and make sure to not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

There will be two empty holes that you can put a bolt into. when you screw the bolt in, it will push up against the hub, helping to push the rotors out. I'm not quite sure of the size of the threads but I think the threads are 8x100.

There will be holes in the brake rotors, make sure to line the holes up to hub so you can put new screws in. The screws are used to keep the rotors tight against the hubs when if you need to take off the wheels.

I personally did not replace the screws when I did my rotors. When my wheels are on, the lugs keep them tight anyway.
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Old April 20th, 2012, 09:31 AM   #3
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Don't listen to this Wang pang guy. You need an impact screw driver to get the screws out. Than a Mallot to get the rotor out.
Jakefrom and dellon like this.
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Old April 20th, 2012, 09:51 AM   #4
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Don't listen to this Wang pang guy. You need an impact screw driver to get the screws out. Than a Mallot to get the rotor out.
Hi, no need to be making fun of my name.

To the OP, I retract my answer to not needing an impact driver (was thinking impact gun) but start with the lowest setting as to try not to strip the head of the bolt/screw. I stripped the head even with the lowest setting, good luck.
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Old April 20th, 2012, 10:10 AM   #5
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All you need is a cheap (prices range $12-$30) impact driver from your local autostore, and a hammer. They look similar to this...

Amazon.com: K-Tool International (KTI71700) 3/8in. Impact Driver Set With Impact Bits: Home Improvement

A series of hard hits on the driver with the hammer will loosen the screws. Make sure you set it to go in the right direction. A lot of people who have trouble with these don't know how to set the direction of the turn. You also have to grip the driver hard with your other hand when the hammer hits, if you don't you won't transfer enough torque.
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Old April 20th, 2012, 11:02 AM   #6
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is it possible to hand torque it out? lolz i think i read somehwere that some people were lucky enough.

do i removes those 2 screws prior to disassembling the caliper housing?

when should i attempt to remove these 2 screws? alot of people said I dont need to bother with it.

if worst scomes to worst. what do u folks mean by drilling it out? did you literally bore out the hole to get the screw out?
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Old April 20th, 2012, 11:29 AM   #7
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1. not possible with out the use of a impact driver. the impact driver helps break up the rust seizure between the rotors/hubs and the bolt/screw.

2. does not matter which you take off first since you seem to be replacing the rotors but I would take off the caliper first.

3. If you are refering to the two screws that are holding the rotors on the hub, yes you will need to remove them first or you will have a very hard time taking the rotors off the vehicle.

4. I mean to say drill the screws head so that it is no longer holding the rotor onto the hubs. If you plan on not using a impact driver, then more than likely, you will strip the head and will need to drill it out.
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Old April 20th, 2012, 11:40 AM   #8
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1. not possible with out the use of a impact driver. the impact driver helps break up the rust seizure between the rotors/hubs and the bolt/screw.

2. does not matter which you take off first since you seem to be replacing the rotors but I would take off the caliper first.

3. If you are refering to the two screws that are holding the rotors on the hub, yes you will need to remove them first or you will have a very hard time taking the rotors off the vehicle.

4. I mean to say drill the screws head so that it is no longer holding the rotor onto the hubs. If you plan on not using a impact driver, then more than likely, you will strip the head and will need to drill it out.
Thanks. My thinking is, if I do drill it, I didn't want to strip the thread on the hub. I'm going to see if I can order some screws to replace them.

I have a drill and some bits, but hope its strong enough. Gotta go look for them screws.

But when i put the new rotors on, do I necessarily need these two baby screws to hold the rotor to hub? Most people say they don't need to, and other makes and model I've worked with didn't have either. This caught me off guard while researching. Granted, this is way easier than the old accords. lolz
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Old April 20th, 2012, 11:51 AM   #9
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same concept.

Honda front brake job - caliper and rotor replacement - YouTube
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Old April 20th, 2012, 11:58 AM   #10
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I didn't put the screws back on mine because the hubs torque them down anyway. The screws will help center your rotors on the hub, helping to keep your rotor centered and balanced but I have not felt any vibrations from how I did mine without the screws. Your best bet is to use the impact driver first with the lowest setting; the vibration from the impact will help loosen up the rust/seizure (hopefully). Drilling the head off the screw is the last resort.
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Old April 20th, 2012, 12:34 PM   #11
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Damn this job. The thing is, my pads don't come in yet till about 2 weeks, and I'm having anxiety already with this.
I've done brake jobs before, and while doing an oil change, I plan on just removing these first; to see how they are. I'd hate to invest in an impact driver for this. UGHG!

Doable?
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Old April 20th, 2012, 01:02 PM   #12
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Took my rotors off yesterday to swap lug bolts. You NEED an impact driver and a normal hammer. Thats it. Then you will need to take the caliper off and the caliper holder. Just get a cheapy driver from autozone and bust out the 2 screws.
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Old April 21st, 2012, 09:28 PM   #13
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Before the pads get here, why don't you just pick up a cheapy impact driver, take the wheels off and go for it with calipers still on. If you're unsuccessful, put the wheel back on it, sleep on it, have a beer, and try again the next day or the next time you're free lol
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Old April 22nd, 2012, 10:06 AM   #14
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If you can't get them out with an impact driver(strip the head) you can always use a drill. I found out that it was only the head of the screw that makes it so hard to take off. The the threads of the screws were easily unscrewed with my fingers. This is in socal weather though, it might be different in places with snow.
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 09:45 PM   #15
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Before the pads get here, why don't you just pick up a cheapy impact driver, take the wheels off and go for it with calipers still on. If you're unsuccessful, put the wheel back on it, sleep on it, have a beer, and try again the next day or the next time you're free lol
can i actually remove them this way? lol i was thinking about this.. thanks.!
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Old April 24th, 2012, 10:49 AM   #16
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is it possible to hand torque it out? lolz i think i read somehwere that some people were lucky enough.
Yes it is possible. I do it on every car i work on. I just put the right size bit on the screw than hit it with a hammer about 3 times. Than I use a ratchet with a 1/4in socket to unscrew it. When i reassemble it back up I use antisieze on the threads and i never have to hit it with a hammer again even after years. It is quicker with an impact screwdriver.
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Old April 24th, 2012, 05:10 PM   #17
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^ thats pretty much what I did. Put some liquid wrench or WD40 on the screw take a screwdriver and wack it with a hammer a few times then get a screwdriver that fits perfect in the screw and it will come off by hand without too much effort. Hope that helps it worked for me and I didnt have to run out and buy an impact driver but you can always do that, its not a bad tool to have.
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Old April 27th, 2012, 05:15 PM   #18
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If youre doing pads too, while you're at autozone get the caliper-piston tool.
cant remember the technical name.....
braindead atm.
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Old April 28th, 2012, 03:29 PM   #19
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i got the impact driver. i mean i set it to LEFT right, and i whack it a few times, and no buldge. am i setting it correctly, or has it siezed
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Old April 29th, 2012, 09:06 PM   #20
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How do I drill out those screws? I killed like some black & decker drilled bits already.

Is there a special one or specific size I should get?

Do I just bore it out?

Please help. My drill is a crafstman.

Thanks.
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Old April 29th, 2012, 09:15 PM   #21
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Are the retaining screws even needed? I stripped mine the first time I tried using an impact driver :/
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Old April 30th, 2012, 11:39 AM   #22
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Are the retaining screws even needed? I stripped mine the first time I tried using an impact driver :/
No they are not. My guess is they were an assembly line thing. The shock/spring, the hub, and rotor could all be installed in one motion without the rotors falling off.
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Old April 30th, 2012, 04:04 PM   #23
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I guess the question is, HOW to drill them out? Do I just get a drill pit and keep drilling it till it cracks and break?

I figured, as long the drill bit is smaller than the hole itself, I'm okaY?

Any help? I broke a couple of drill bits already. Are there any specific sizes and bits I could use?
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Old April 30th, 2012, 07:48 PM   #24
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I found pilot tipped bits helpful. just drill off the heads the rest should be able to be taken out with your hand after you take off the rotor.

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Old May 1st, 2012, 01:55 PM   #25
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I found pilot tipped bits helpful. just drill off the heads the rest should be able to be taken out with your hand after you take off the rotor.

Hey,

I just wanted to say thanks to the community for the help.

I didn't know there was a difference in the bits. I live near a Sears, so I'll be visiting it. The point is for me to destroy the screw right?

I used WD-40 and tried drilling it, and all I got were shavings. LOLZ
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Old May 20th, 2012, 05:29 PM   #26
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I finally got my pads and they seem to be preshimmed. I had bought OEM HONDA SHIMs, and tried to fit them over the pads. The package came w/ a pack of MOLY LUBE. I suspect I would be using it for the back plate of the pads?

I'm still trying to drill these stupid bolts out. The good thing is, I still have brake pad life. About 3/4" left. lol
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