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Old May 1st, 2007, 10:38 AM   #1
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Question on Tein SS-P

Ok I bought a set of used SS-P's recently (not installed), I have never used nor played with adjustable coilovers so forgive the n00b questions.

1) Is the dial to adjust the shock suppose to be so easy to change that you can do it with your fingers and not a wrench? Or is it just because they are not installed?

2) Also how many full turns are you suppose to have with them? I know that you are only suppose to use levels 1-16 but I was reading up (directions on teins website) and decided to count total clicks from full hard (factory setting) to full soft and it kinda varied. I would have like 29 on two of them then maybe 30 on the other and 28 on the last, is this normal? I though there was suppose to be 32 total clicks available? If there is suppose to be 32 is it normal to have a couple less clicks?



thanks
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Old May 1st, 2007, 10:45 AM   #2
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full hard is when turning clockwise the adjustment will stop...that is level 16....you count down to 1 from there...and don't go below 1
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Old May 1st, 2007, 12:02 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dinzdale40
full hard is when turning clockwise the adjustment will stop...that is level 16....you count down to 1 from there...and don't go below 1
Roger that, got that part.

What about if you can turn the dampener adjustment knob with your own fingers when uninstalled and then when installed? Or when they are installed and the cars weight is on them that is when you need the wrench to adjust the dampeners?

I guess my surprise comes in that it was really easy to adjust the dampeners with my fingers when uninstalled, like I used minimal force to adjust them
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Old May 1st, 2007, 12:21 PM   #4
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once theres weight on the car, it will be harder to spin them. in my experience, its always harder to raise it than lowering, since your putting more compression on the spring.
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Old May 1st, 2007, 12:31 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by 04accordcpe
once theres weight on the car, it will be harder to spin them. in my experience, its always harder to raise it than lowering, since your putting more compression on the spring.
Excellent point that brings up a question. If you install with the default ride height that comes from the factory does that lower the car 2.6" front and 1.9" rear on the coupes?

The reason I ask this is because in Teins application chart they have a column right before the adjustment range that gives what is close to the average ride height for the range, is this what I would see if I install them with the factory settings?

1.9" is a bit low for the rear for me so I dont want it to be a pain in the ass to adjust them up to around 1.5" when installed, trying to get them as close as possible before install.
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Old May 21st, 2007, 07:51 AM   #6
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Alright had the SS-P installed with Ingalls rear late last week, had a chance to drive it a lot more this weekend and the difference is amazing. Lowered about 3 in the front and 2/2.5 in the back.

One thing I noticed is the rears seem to have some chattering/clanging when hitting bumps. This does not happen crusing on flat roads or even all bumps in general, def happens over speed bumps and bigger bumps. It seems like the spring or some part of the spring seat are clanging together, anyone have this exp?

I was in the back of the car with the seats down and plastic trim off as my girlfriend put the hammer down over some bumps to try and pinpoint it and well it wasnt something inside the car it was def outside. Everything is tightened down and looks good.

Is there a possiblity with a drop like 2-2.5 inches in the rear that when hitting big enough bumps that the spring becomes uncompressed and I am hearing the spring coming back into contact with the upper and lower seats?

The only other thing I can try is to raise the height of it and see if that solves the noise. I dont really mind the noise, just I want ot make sure everything is ok.

Thanks in advance

Last edited by 06 AV6 06MT; May 21st, 2007 at 08:02 AM..
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Old May 21st, 2007, 09:11 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dinzdale40
full hard is when turning clockwise the adjustment will stop...that is level 16....you count down to 1 from there...and don't go below 1
This is incorrect. The damping can adjust to higher damping levels than needed in case you choose to go with a stiffer spring but DO NOT GO PAST 16 because you can damage the shock. The manual says to trun the adjustment knobs all the way to the right and then turn the knobs back 8 clicks (I believe it's 8, I'll check today).

As far as the creaking from the rear, I have the same thing and I've been trying to diagnose the problem. I think it might be do to the fact that we have aluminum pillow ball mounts. If I fix the damn problem, I'll post the answer fast as a MFer.
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Old May 21st, 2007, 09:22 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MysterGoode
This is incorrect. The damping can adjust to higher damping levels than needed in case you choose to go with a stiffer spring but DO NOT GO PAST 16 because you can damage the shock. The manual says to trun the adjustment knobs all the way to the right and then turn the knobs back 8 clicks (I believe it's 8, I'll check today).

As far as the creaking from the rear, I have the same thing and I've been trying to diagnose the problem. I think it might be do to the fact that we have aluminum pillow ball mounts. If I fix the damn problem, I'll post the answer fast as a MFer.
well that kinda good to know my situation is not unique and prolly an indication that there is not something wrong. I will be checking much more in depth when I get some more time to take the wheels off. Fronts dont make the noise at all.
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