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Old November 19th, 2014, 09:25 PM   #1
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Shop that rebuild my transmission overtightened the fill bolt

Had to go down to the local lube place to get it loosened, even they had trouble. Had them do a drain and fill with the DW-1 ATF I supplied, they only charged me $20 to do it and made sure the bolt was properly tightened this time.

Anyone else run into something like this?
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Old November 19th, 2014, 09:27 PM   #2
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I used a breaker bar + extension to get my sister AT accord off and The same with my MT also.
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Old November 19th, 2014, 09:36 PM   #3
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It felt like I was going to break my ratchet when I was trying to remove the bolt. Or the corner off the transmission.

Anyway, now I can do another couple drains and fills with DW-1 (the shop used Dextron III with the Lube Guard Honda additive)) and then start with the Redline D4.
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Old November 19th, 2014, 11:13 PM   #4
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It felt like I was going to break my ratchet when I was trying to remove the bolt. Or the corner off the transmission.

Anyway, now I can do another couple drains and fills with DW-1 (the shop used Dextron III with the Lube Guard Honda additive)) and then start with the Redline D4.
I'm new to a lot of this, so I'm just wondering why you couldn't go ahead and use the red line instead of doing it with the DW then doing it with redline? I'm just curious because I'm thinking about changing mine.
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Old November 20th, 2014, 01:11 AM   #5
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May just be for the DW to carry out any dirt if the fluid doesn't come out exceptionally good the first time.

Highly recommend you start to mix in some race fluid though. Even on auto. Especially on auto. I think 60/40 race/d6 was what I was using.

Also D6 is closer to what the newer fluid is compared to d4 IIRC from my old numbers, and the thinness can help to keep cooler/faster flowing/more effective use of squirters.

Edit:as far as the bolt, I just use a craftsman with no rubber on the handle, and a hammer. DIY impact wrench with massive impact force.
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Old November 20th, 2014, 04:05 PM   #6
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Anyone else run into something like this?
Yes. I broke a universal and a couple of extensions trying to get mine off. And to add insult to injury - - the second time I took the fill bolt off it was almost as difficult to remove. Although I didn't use a torque wrench I really didn't think I over-tightened it. I guess I should have used some anti-seize. I've since read a # of accounts where people had trouble removing that bolt. I wonder if it has something to do with dissimilar metals?
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Old November 21st, 2014, 09:53 PM   #7
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I took my car in for a transmission drain/fill + replace the filter last week. The guy doing the work asked who tightened the fill bolt so tight?!? I told him he did, the last time he did the drain/fill and filter replacement last year. He said oh, I don't remember tightening it so much. Maybe the numerous heat cycles and dissimilar metals like ypsibird said makes the bolt seize?
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Old November 21st, 2014, 10:22 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by jagrave View Post
I'm new to a lot of this, so I'm just wondering why you couldn't go ahead and use the red line instead of doing it with the DW then doing it with redline? I'm just curious because I'm thinking about changing mine.
DW1 is actually really good ATF. Plus since they used Dextron III and the Lube Guard Honda stuff, I'd feel better if I was running only DW1 and Redline instead.

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May just be for the DW to carry out any dirt if the fluid doesn't come out exceptionally good the first time.

Highly recommend you start to mix in some race fluid though. Even on auto. Especially on auto. I think 60/40 race/d6 was what I was using.

Also D6 is closer to what the newer fluid is compared to d4 IIRC from my old numbers, and the thinness can help to keep cooler/faster flowing/more effective use of squirters.

Edit:as far as the bolt, I just use a craftsman with no rubber on the handle, and a hammer. DIY impact wrench with massive impact force.
I know I Hate Cars on acurazine was mixing in Type F ATF, hoping to see more on that because that would definitely give a firm shift.

After driving around a few days with DW1, I have noticed the part throttle shifts are very smooth. Full throttle is firmer.

As far as the bolt goes, I figure I'll just loosen and tighten it when I check my oil level.
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Old November 21st, 2014, 10:41 PM   #9
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DW1 is actually really good ATF. Plus since they used Dextron III and the Lube Guard Honda stuff, I'd feel better if I was running only DW1 and Redline instead.



I know I Hate Cars on acurazine was mixing in Type F ATF, hoping to see more on that because that would definitely give a firm shift.

After driving around a few days with DW1, I have noticed the part throttle shifts are very smooth. Full throttle is firmer.

As far as the bolt goes, I figure I'll just loosen and tighten it when I check my oil level.
Unfortunately, he on MT.

Running it on both the i4 7gA and v6 7gA, it definitely makes the transmissions feel more secure in their shifts. Like the computers know what they're doing now and how the trans will react.

I believe the current balance is about 30 no slip, 20 d6, 50 dw in each(roughly, not calculating mix in %)
The impact this makes is about the same as going from z to dw, again. I intend on going higher very soon however I wanted to make sure I didn't flush anything out or that there were adverse effects first.

Actually, I have to do an oil change on one this weekend, may as well put some new trans in the av6. should bring it up to about 33 d6, 27 no slip, 40dw (ish) then one more later of no slip to try to bring it to 40-50 no slip /30-25 d6 /30-25 dw

High recommend some no slip.
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Old November 22nd, 2014, 11:11 AM   #10
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"No slip"?
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