Valve adjustment specs for v6 - Honda Accord Forum : V6 Performance Accord Forums
Ribbon Banner

Go Back   Honda Accord Forum : V6 Performance Accord Forums > CAR SPECIFIC DISCUSSION > 7TH GENERATION HONDA ACCORD (2003-2007)
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read Insurance
V6Performance.net is the premier Honda Accord Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Like Tree7Likes
  • 1 Post By thisaznboi88
  • 2 Post By accord325
  • 1 Post By NVA-AV6
  • 1 Post By CBUS-AV6MT
  • 1 Post By StevilKnievel
  • 1 Post By thisaznboi88

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old May 4th, 2015, 05:44 PM   #1
Registered User
 
thisaznboi88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 8,733
Valve adjustment specs for v6

Here are the valve adjustment specs for the V6 accord

intake 0.20-0.24mm or 0.008-0.009in

exhaust 0.28-0.32mm or 0.011- 0.013in

here is the cylinder order

Fire wall (towards cabin)

1_____________2_____________3



4_____________5_____________6



Radiator (towards front bumper)


Now as far as tight and loose end I have no idea. Anyone want to chime in on this.
StevilKnievel likes this.
__________________
~~FlashPro dyno-tuned by innovative-motorworks (383whp/313wtq @ 7.5 psi without boost controller)~~
~~FlashPro e-tuned by Domgsr-t (405whp/345+wtq) @ 8.5psi ~~ **currently running**
thisaznboi88 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old May 4th, 2015, 06:56 PM   #2
Registered User
 
accord325's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Tampa
Posts: 2,392
I personally use the "next size up" trick.

Example - Intake has +-.02", meaning .24" is the max. I will use a .22" to feel, and then use a .24". If the .24" does not go in, then your within spec. I think mine is .238" or something like that. I would have to go break them out.

Or, if you want to favor the tight side, use a .20" and then a .22" as the "Next up"
NVA-AV6 and thisaznboi88 like this.
accord325 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 4th, 2015, 11:02 PM   #3
The Jester
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,352
Benefits of favoring tight side or loose side?
oraclem19 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old May 5th, 2015, 04:34 AM   #4
M90SC Boosting 13PSI
 
NVA-AV6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 10,960
Quote:
Originally Posted by oraclem19 View Post
Benefits of favoring tight side or loose side?
I always like it on the tight side, LOL. Seriously thou it will stay in adjustment for longer and you will get slightly more valve opening. The tappets do mushroom over time and the cam lobes do wear, this is why it goes out of spec over time.

Now there will be those who say why not just adjust it with 0 clearence, that is a good way to get "valve float" at high rev where the valves will be left just slightly open. This will destroy both the edge of the valve and the seat as well as cost power.
thisaznboi88 likes this.
__________________
How's that hope and change working for you???
NVA-AV6 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 5th, 2015, 11:37 AM   #5
Calm like a bomb
 
StevilKnievel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: N.E. PA
Posts: 356
I've been debating doing this opposed to having it done for me for a few weeks now. I know ALL hondas have that little tick but I feel it might be time for mine to be serviced. Any idea what the jobber rate would be on this type of service?
StevilKnievel is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 5th, 2015, 12:45 PM   #6
Registered User
 
thisaznboi88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 8,733
3 hours. the manifold and a whole bunch of **** have to come out. Its also a good time to swap out those gasket and install an MDX spacer or something while you are down their.
thisaznboi88 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 5th, 2015, 01:39 PM   #7
Calm like a bomb
 
StevilKnievel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: N.E. PA
Posts: 356
Quote:
Originally Posted by thisaznboi88 View Post
3 hours. the manifold and a whole bunch of **** have to come out. Its also a good time to swap out those gasket and install an MDX spacer or something while you are down their.
I haven't torn into this engine too much yet so I don't know the intricacies of it yet. I'm going to be doing my timing belt etc. soon. Will removing those components get me pretty close to home with the top of the heads for this job?
StevilKnievel is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 5th, 2015, 01:41 PM   #8
Registered User
 
thisaznboi88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 8,733
timing belt is on the side. You will still need to take off the intake manifold and valve covers.
thisaznboi88 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 5th, 2015, 01:49 PM   #9
Registered User
 
accord325's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Tampa
Posts: 2,392
Quote:
Originally Posted by thisaznboi88 View Post
timing belt is on the side. You will still need to take off the intake manifold and valve covers.
I've done timing with the IM and valve covers on the car. Why do you say that, brother?
__________________
Point A to B
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


NA.... Till I Spray
accord325 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 5th, 2015, 01:51 PM   #10
Calm like a bomb
 
StevilKnievel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: N.E. PA
Posts: 356
Quote:
Originally Posted by accord325 View Post
I've done timing with the IM and valve covers on the car. Why do you say that, brother?
I think he meant that they don't have to come off to do the timing kit. BC I was asking if that would already be torn down to get access to it. I need a rental car for a week so I can disassemble the top end and get to know her better.
StevilKnievel is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 5th, 2015, 02:00 PM   #11
Registered User
 
accord325's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Tampa
Posts: 2,392
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevilKnievel View Post
I think he meant that they don't have to come off to do the timing kit. BC I was asking if that would already be torn down to get access to it. I need a rental car for a week so I can disassemble the top end and get to know her better.
How many miles on your car? I did mine at 120k miles and I believe the exhaust were a hair loose (or intake, dont recall). That was with a lot of hard driving, track days, etc.

Post a video if you can.
__________________
Point A to B
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


NA.... Till I Spray
accord325 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 5th, 2015, 02:53 PM   #12
Calm like a bomb
 
StevilKnievel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: N.E. PA
Posts: 356
As close to 110 as makes a difference. I'll get a vid up probably tomorrow. Sound quality isn't great though so I'm not sure it will help. It isn't bad IMHO but I am the kind of person who will change/fix/upgrade anything in the immediate vicinity of something I'm already changing/fixing/upgrading. That's why I'm always broke lol! Plus there is a piece of mind that comes from knowing a potential issue has been addressed before it becomes major.
StevilKnievel is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 5th, 2015, 02:57 PM   #13
Registered User
 
thisaznboi88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 8,733
intake get loose. Exhaust get tight
thisaznboi88 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 5th, 2015, 04:33 PM   #14
Registered User
 
accord325's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Tampa
Posts: 2,392
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevilKnievel View Post
As close to 110 as makes a difference. I'll get a vid up probably tomorrow. Sound quality isn't great though so I'm not sure it will help. It isn't bad IMHO but I am the kind of person who will change/fix/upgrade anything in the immediate vicinity of something I'm already changing/fixing/upgrading. That's why I'm always broke lol! Plus there is a piece of mind that comes from knowing a potential issue has been addressed before it becomes major.
Same here. I think it's a good practice, but at 120k my water pump was flawless, timing belt looked brand new and the valve were in spec. LOL. Ohh well.
__________________
Point A to B
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


NA.... Till I Spray
accord325 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 5th, 2015, 05:10 PM   #15
Registered User
 
thisaznboi88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 8,733
Quote:
Originally Posted by accord325 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by thisaznboi88 View Post
timing belt is on the side. You will still need to take off the intake manifold and valve covers.
I've done timing with the IM and valve covers on the car. Why do you say that, brother?

I left out to do the valve adjustment. Internet cut off.
thisaznboi88 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 5th, 2015, 05:42 PM   #16
Registered User
 
stalloutboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 209
Valve adjustment is easy but time consuming imo. The biggest job I ever did before doing a valve adjustment was changing my shocks
stalloutboy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 5th, 2015, 05:42 PM   #17
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 610
Ive done my valve lash twice. First time I made a few worse as the firewall side is a ***** to do. I'd recommended buying two sets of feeler guages and putting a 45 degree bend in one about 3/4" inch from the end to make it a lot easier. Or buy the ones that already have the bend. The second time I went through it was a lot smoother doing that.

If you take the plugs out it is much easier to turn the crank but not necessary.
accord325 likes this.
CBUS-AV6MT is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 6th, 2015, 03:11 AM   #18
The Jester
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,352
Quote:
Originally Posted by NVA-AV6 View Post
I always like it on the tight side, LOL. Seriously thou it will stay in adjustment for longer and you will get slightly more valve opening. The tappets do mushroom over time and the cam lobes do wear, this is why it goes out of spec over time.

Now there will be those who say why not just adjust it with 0 clearence, that is a good way to get "valve float" at high rev where the valves will be left just slightly open. This will destroy both the edge of the valve and the seat as well as cost power.
I remember there being some backwards way of using the valve lash to slightly enlongate or shorten the overlap on the cams by either being on tight side (or slightly over) or on the loose side (or slightly over), have you found any results from this? Something like tighter runs leaner looser richer? May have that backwards.
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevilKnievel View Post
I've been debating doing this opposed to having it done for me for a few weeks now. I know ALL hondas have that little tick but I feel it might be time for mine to be serviced. Any idea what the jobber rate would be on this type of service?
Quote:
Originally Posted by accord325 View Post
Same here. I think it's a good practice, but at 120k my water pump was flawless, timing belt looked brand new and the valve were in spec. LOL. Ohh well.
I will say valves are a bit of an intimidating project just due to needing to pull the intake manifold and everything connected on, and you're messing with the cam, and need the car with the tire off, but once you get past the two dozen bolts attaching this all it's really just double checking your work. The "size up" method is a good one. As is a fresh set of gauges, and a long boxend 10/flathead with a wide handle. Or if you get the actual tool it makes adjusting much more sure.
Definitely worth being able to check and adjust accurately though, being able to detect and repair an engine issue or anomaly by knowing what having too loose of a valve lash sounds like vs correct can be the difference between replacing two dozen valves thinking they're bad and replacing a bolt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stalloutboy View Post
Valve adjustment is easy but time consuming imo. The biggest job I ever did before doing a valve adjustment was changing my shocks
I would rather pull my heads off than try to swap springs or shocks again. And pulling the heads off costs a hundred in gaskets to do right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CBUS-AV6MT View Post
Ive done my valve lash twice. First time I made a few worse as the firewall side is a ***** to do. I'd recommended buying two sets of feeler guages and putting a 45 degree bend in one about 3/4" inch from the end to make it a lot easier. Or buy the ones that already have the bend. The second time I went through it was a lot smoother doing that.

If you take the plugs out it is much easier to turn the crank but not necessary.
Either get a prebent set and regular straight or bend one yourself, I almost use mine at a 90 on the fronts, the firewalls I would say to triple check, and find a good way to get accurate back there as they're just as important to be accurate in adjusting the EXACT (+-.002mm) same distance that you adjusted the front bank, but are at a weird angle. Your arm doesn't fit right, you cant look at the valves dead on, you can't really get a good angle on cyl 3, and the engine is tilted toward the firewall making the space even more awkward.

Overall, do it, get the angled feelers, make sure the feelers have the right increments, boxend 10mm, big handle flathead, 3/8" entender, carb clean for your runners/IM(optional), and don't plan for it to be a quick one hour on off. 1hr doable, with power everything, all of the specialty tools, and knowledge of the feelers, not recommended.
oraclem19 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 6th, 2015, 07:43 AM   #19
Calm like a bomb
 
StevilKnievel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: N.E. PA
Posts: 356
Here is a video. Please excuse the dirt and debris in the IM.


&mpt=[CACHEBUSTER]">
StevilKnievel is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 6th, 2015, 08:52 AM   #20
Registered User
 
accord325's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Tampa
Posts: 2,392
It may be a little loud, but sounds okay. I have a thinner wall DTB IM, Ported heads and thinner PCD's making my $hit sound loud, about the same as yours. Drove me crazy for a while till I finally came to the conclusion I did everything right and that is just how it sounds.
accord325 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 6th, 2015, 10:53 AM   #21
Registered User
 
thisaznboi88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 8,733
You should be okay. Doesn't hurt to do a valve adjustment. I checked mine a while back and they were off by a little after 10k of driving.
thisaznboi88 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 6th, 2015, 11:15 AM   #22
Calm like a bomb
 
StevilKnievel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: N.E. PA
Posts: 356
I've been in there with a mechanics stethoscope and didn't hear anything abnormal. The tensioner pulley makes a LOT of noise so some of what you are hearing is that. Like I said, I know they all tick but sometimes I THINK I hear something out of whack but that's just me looking for trouble. I'm going to get to this eventually. I need to figure out ALL the components that should/can be replaced in the process like gaskets and such and just dive in.
thisaznboi88 likes this.
StevilKnievel is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 6th, 2015, 11:18 AM   #23
Registered User
 
thisaznboi88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 8,733
sounds like a good plan.

Just a heads up it usually takes me 2-3hours do to the valve adjustment. Its hard to explain how to do it, but you just got to do it and get "feel" for it. There is a certain amount of drag you want.
thisaznboi88 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 6th, 2015, 11:29 AM   #24
Calm like a bomb
 
StevilKnievel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: N.E. PA
Posts: 356
Quote:
Originally Posted by thisaznboi88 View Post
sounds like a good plan.

Just a heads up it usually takes me 2-3hours do to the valve adjustment. Its hard to explain how to do it, but you just got to do it and get "feel" for it. There is a certain amount of drag you want.
I know exactly what you mean. I'm no stranger to engine teardowns and rebuilds but I just haven't gone into this engine yet and being that it's my DD I must be careful so I still have a ride to work lol. I appreciate everybody's input here, thanks guys. I will probably do a write-up when I get around to doing it.
StevilKnievel is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old May 6th, 2015, 11:34 AM   #25
Registered User
 
thisaznboi88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 8,733
here is some help along the way

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnyqVg3nWRk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLdgivYwUiQ
StevilKnievel likes this.
thisaznboi88 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old June 24th, 2015, 05:03 AM   #26
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Russia St. Peterburg
Posts: 105
Thank you very much!
sasa is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Honda Accord Forum : V6 Performance Accord Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Chapter
Choose your AV6 Chapter Location
Ride
What do you drive?
Insurance
Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On