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Old August 4th, 2015, 09:29 PM   #1
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Tl-s sway bar install

Got both the sway bars in today. Only to find that the nuts on my end links are rusted on and just spin the entire thing. Any options here? It's on both ends of the link, so I can't just replace it...
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Old August 5th, 2015, 04:45 AM   #2
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Cut it and buy new endlinks. They are cheap enough.
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Old August 5th, 2015, 07:58 AM   #3
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I will be doing my suspension upgrade shortly so while I was changing my oil and rotating my tires last night I decided to soak and scrub all the bolts and back them off to make install day easier. I ran into the same problem. The hex head on the threaded end rounded off so I had to get creative. What I found to work best is breaking the ball joint free from the housing so it's just a bolt with a ball head remaining. Get a large pair of vice grips and clamp those sumbishes down as hard as you can and back the nut off as you normally would. A ratcheting 14mm box end wrench or 14mm crows foot will really help the process but isn't necessary. Long story short, replace them.
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Old August 5th, 2015, 08:07 AM   #4
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Need to insert a allen key in to the end of the bolt to keep it from spinning while removing the nut.
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Old August 5th, 2015, 08:38 AM   #5
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I cut all 4 and replaced them with Moog end links. Northern winters ruined them completely.
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Old August 5th, 2015, 11:57 AM   #6
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Just woke up I'll check it out rn now that I'm not baked mayne I can figure it out. Orderes the end links last night, tl-s ones, 130$ shipped for all 4 -__-
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Old August 5th, 2015, 11:58 AM   #7
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How am I supposed to get the bolt closest to the chassis on the front moldings? It's ****ing impossible it's covered by the chassis literally
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Old August 5th, 2015, 12:07 PM   #8
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You got it. its a pain in the ass. When I had my engine removed it was still a pain in the ass.
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Old August 5th, 2015, 12:26 PM   #9
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None of my sockets or wrenches fit in there and I have like 5 different sets. I just checked and it looks like it's a #5 allan wrench, but it's got some major rust. soaked it in rust solveant, gonna play some warcraft and go check it out again in an hour. **** the front though lmao that ****s impossible.
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Old August 5th, 2015, 01:18 PM   #10
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Going outside and hitting everything with a wire brush and reapplying rust solvent every hour. I might be able to get it xD
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Old August 5th, 2015, 01:54 PM   #11
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How am I supposed to get the bolt closest to the chassis on the front moldings? It's ****ing impossible it's covered by the chassis literally
to get to those bolts, you will need to lower the front subframe
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Old August 5th, 2015, 02:40 PM   #12
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Yup. you need to do what willmtran said.
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Old August 5th, 2015, 04:14 PM   #13
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Yup, I had to lower my subframe in order to get the front SB installed.
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Old August 5th, 2015, 04:17 PM   #14
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How do I lower the subframe? And the Allen stripped -__- new end links on their way... 135$ for all 4 -__-
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Old August 5th, 2015, 05:48 PM   #15
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Think I might quiksteel an Allan wrench onto the end of the link. Anyone know how to fix a stripped Allan?
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Old August 5th, 2015, 06:40 PM   #16
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To fix a stripped allen key: cut the stripped section off and file off the burrs.

To remove the end links, like others have said, cut them off or get a vice grip/locking pliers that will fit between the cup of the end link and the sway bar. Grip it there to prevent it from turning. Also, could try putting a pry bar in the same area. The force could help stop it from turning in the cup of the end link.

Also, IIRC, I believe the TL-s end links have a bigger stud which may require opening up the hole. GL

Oh, remember to support the engine with a jack before you start to mess with the subframe.
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Old August 5th, 2015, 07:15 PM   #17
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Just cut it and use a vice grip. Its way easier then messing with an allen wrench.
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Old August 5th, 2015, 08:50 PM   #18
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I'm not understanding how ppl got the stock front sway off the car...I got every bolt out and it was just hanging in a prison of components I couldn't work it free from
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Old August 5th, 2015, 08:56 PM   #19
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Any diys on the subframe? That sounds like an entirely new can of worms.
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Old August 5th, 2015, 11:04 PM   #20
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The neuspeed front swaybar instructions work perfect.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...kX9xVtgxoOZJwA
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Old August 6th, 2015, 07:16 AM   #21
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Any diys on the subframe? That sounds like an entirely new can of worms.
Listen to what me and Bozo said. Just break apart the cylindrical housing and it will just be a ball head that you can grip with a pair of vice grips and back the nut off that way. The other way to "properly" remover them with the allen key will require the type with a ball end that can be used at an angle but any real resistance and they will begin to spin and strip out. At that point you're back to the hack method.
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Old August 6th, 2015, 10:41 AM   #22
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Good luck with the tls end links, hear you have to drill out the holes a bit to make th em fit.
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Old August 6th, 2015, 11:17 AM   #23
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Yup I have done numerous ones this way. When you live in Rustoda (minnesota) its pointless to even try to do them the right way. Even if they did come off the right way easily I think doing it the hack and remove way is still faster.

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Listen to what me and Bozo said. Just break apart the cylindrical housing and it will just be a ball head that you can grip with a pair of vice grips and back the nut off that way. The other way to "properly" remover them with the allen key will require the type with a ball end that can be used at an angle but any real resistance and they will begin to spin and strip out. At that point you're back to the hack method.
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Old August 6th, 2015, 07:26 PM   #24
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Just got the rear on today. A local shop pulled the nut off for free. Sooo not looking forward to the front though. Also I can already feel a difference.
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Old August 11th, 2015, 10:09 PM   #25
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Remove the bottom part of the header to make room for more space while removing the SB.
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Old August 12th, 2015, 07:14 AM   #26
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Quote:
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None of my sockets or wrenches fit in there and I have like 5 different sets. I just checked and it looks like it's a #5 allan wrench, but it's got some major rust. soaked it in rust solveant, gonna play some warcraft and go check it out again in an hour. **** the front though lmao that ****s impossible.
You have to remove the damper fork to access this with no obstruction.
As far as the front sway bar is concerned, you might want to price out a shop rate for that. I have not done one yet but seeing what has to be removed to gain access to it is daunting.
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