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Old January 11th, 2018, 01:15 PM   #1
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How i swapped a 6mt into an Auto

IMPORTANT: I did this swap under my own stupidity, i am not responsible for any one of you destroying your car after reading my post (:

i just wanted to put some info out there from what i experienced thru doing my 6 speed swap into my 7 gen accord 3.0 First off i noticed that there is not much info out there on swapping a j30 from auto to manual, as a matter of fact its quite the opposite, theres a lot of people out there saying its way to expensive and or not possible, so here is what i have found..

i purchased my 2005 accord v6 auto for 500$ with a bad tranny. tranny and other misc parts came from junk yards and ebay.

Parts i acquired:

05 Accord v6 500$
05 accord 6MT 600$
accord v6 clutch kit 160$
accord v6 flywheel and bolts 220$
accord v6 manual starter 60$
accord manual shifter and cables 80$
05 accord v6 master cylinder 25$
accord manual pedal assy 30$
steel braided clutch line 30$
05 accord trans mounts 50$
08 TL ecu 100$ (currenetly unused until flashpro)

These are literally the only parts needed to get the tranny bolted in the car and moving..however, running on the auto ecu will bring a "limp mode" that cuts out vtec and drops redline to 5k. To complete the swap and eliminate limp mode, i will be using the 07-08 TL ecu and adapter harness with flashpro. Which would cost about another grand.

Flashpro TL 700$
03-07 Accord ecu adapter harness 350$

The swap:
*interesting notes*
All mounts , including engine and tranny, are identical between the auto and manual tranny. so yes, the auto mounts can be used with the 6mt, tho i opted for new ones. Matter fact i have also verified that the k24 7 gen mounts are also identical to the 3.0 mounts.
All axles are the same for the 3.0 7 gen, I reused my auto axles in my 6mt, YES INCLUDING THE DRIVER SIDE, exact fit.
Aside from the same mounts, the mounting holes in the subframe where the tranny mounts bolt thru the subframe are the same. (I read somewhere that the auto subframe could only be used if drilled out for the manual mounts, NOT TRUE, direct bolt in.
The auto tranny will have hoses going to it with coolant passing through, this is the transmission warmer, it will need to be bypassed durning the swap. (loop the hoses together)
The tranny CAN be easily pulled thru the bottom of the car, out the driver tire well, this eleiminates having to unplug and remove the entire engine with the tranny.

sorry for the lengthy-ness, i have a lot of info i feel i need to express about this swap. i will attempt later to maybe make a semi decent step by step of the swap.
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Old January 11th, 2018, 01:53 PM   #2
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I may or may not be forgetting some small things, but heres the just of it..

Remove the airbox
Remove the battery and Battery tray
Drain the auto tranny
Drain the radiator
Remove radiator hoses
Remove auto shift linkage from auto tranny
Pull the tranny sensor connectors they arent needed anymore
Remove the front tires
Remove driver tie rod, lower and upper ball joints
Unplug and remove abs wheel speed sensor and its bracket from knuckle
Remove brake caliper and hose bracket from knuckle pull rotor
Remove axle nut set knuckle aside
Remove strut from control arm
Pull driver cv axle set aside
Remove pass caliper and hose bracket pull rotor
Remove pass tie rod, upper and lower ball joints
Remove axle nut set pass knuckle aside
Remove pass strut from control arm
Remove exhaust
Remove halfshaft shield
Remove halfshaft and pass cv axle
Remove front and rear engine mounts to subframe
Remove subframe lower slightly as PS lines are attached
Disconnect rack from steering wheel
Disconnect PS lines from subframe and rack (if nessecary)
Lower subframe
Remove Torque Converter dust cover (CAN BE REUSED ON 6MT)
Remove TC from flexplate
Remove remaining tranny sensors
Remove tranny warmer hoses
Remove front engine mount bracket
Support engine and tranny with jack
Remove tranny upper mount
Remove front motor mount bracket from block and tranny
Remove starter (AUTO DIFFERENT THEN MANUAL)
Remove tranny bellhousing bolts
Pull Auto tranny thru driver tire well
Remove torque converter
Remove flexplate


Install MT flywheel (mt bolts longer then auto flexplate colts)
Install clutch disc
Install pressure plate
Install throwout bearing
Install 6MT to mtor bellhousing bolts
Raise motor and tranny to position
Install upper trans mount while keeping tanny supported
Install lower tranny mounts to tranny
Bypass auto trans warmer hoses
Install front mount to block and tranny
Install MT starter
Arrange subframe connect PS lines
Raise subframe align rack to steering column and trans mounts to subframe
Bolt in subframe
Bolt in lower trans mounts
Bolt together steering column
Install tranny dust cover
Install cv axles and half shaft
Install steering knuckles, ball joints, tie rods
bolt axle nuts
Install tires
Fill tranny
Fill and bleed radiator
Remove auto shifter and install manual shifter run cables uner hood
Connect shift cables to tranny
Install pedal assy, run line from master to slave
Fill and bleed clutch
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Old January 11th, 2018, 03:58 PM   #3
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Years ago when my auto went out on my 03V6 I tried to get the transmission swapped out to manual. A salvage car was transferred from out of state to a Honda junkyard here but when it arrived it was a 4cyl not V6. So I had to rebuild my auto. Sold the car a couple years later but if I had done the manual swap I'd still be driving it and never would sell it.

Nice write-up glad to see someone is getting this sort of work done. Would certainly love to see pictures and video.

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Old January 11th, 2018, 05:35 PM   #4
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I had a similar fear with buying an entire donor car as i know the v6 6speed is relatively hard to find. That's why i decided just to find the 6mt on eBay and get the other misc parts from local yards and what not.
I think it really ended up being a better route to buy a used v6 accord and do the swap because it's come out to something around 3 grand but it has all new clutch and starter and other few things. My only Other option to get a v6 6mt would be to buy one but they're going for 6 to 8 grand around where i am. And that would be 6 to 8 grand on a car with probably 150k and a stock clutch most likely. So I'm happy with my swap so far, tho I'm still daily driving my 04 i4 5mt accord until i can get flashpro for my v6. I always thought my k24 manual was pretty fast but, my v6 6mt Is faster even in limp mode with no vtec and redline at 5k Lol ?
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Old January 11th, 2018, 05:46 PM   #5
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I also did the swap at work in between other cars on my free time at a Midas, so i didn't get all too many pictures at all. Just a few when i got the auto out and when i got the flywheel on. I'll see what pics i have in the old phone gallery
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Old January 11th, 2018, 05:48 PM   #6
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The black one is my v6 and the white one is my 4cyl
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Old January 11th, 2018, 05:51 PM   #7
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Exhaust dropped except headers
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Old January 11th, 2018, 05:52 PM   #8
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Auto out!
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Old January 11th, 2018, 05:55 PM   #9
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New clutch and flywheel
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Old January 11th, 2018, 05:57 PM   #10
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The 6speed bolted in.
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Old January 11th, 2018, 05:59 PM   #11
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https://youtu.be/_fS5V9ZSDtA
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Old January 11th, 2018, 06:27 PM   #12
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Probably should have done that when my transmission went out the first time. The shop didn't check the lines for the auxiliary cooler when they added it with the rebuild, less than two years later due to blockage in the lines the transmission was toast. For the $5000 or so between the two rebuilds (2nd shop added a shift kit with the build, so much better!) I could have done the swap to a manual and maybe had money left over.
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Old January 17th, 2018, 02:11 PM   #13
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Absolutly scottwax, the swap for me cost around $2500, and that's including the 700 i spent on the car. In your situation, and with the right luck on parts You maybe could have gotten the swap done for around $1800 given you were doing your own labor. Well worth the money in my opinion. Especially to end up with an accord v6 6pd.
I mean what good is all the j sieries power, if you can't get it to the road due to power loss from an autobox
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Old January 26th, 2018, 07:24 PM   #14
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Awesome write up man!! You laid the foundation for others! It’s up to them to eat it done, whether you missed something or not, this is a HUGE starting point!!
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Old January 28th, 2018, 08:56 PM   #15
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Thanks accord325.
The car is still going good, granted, Its not daily driven because im waiting on Flashpro. It definitely runs and drives well mechanically. My only complaint being being ecu related, no speedometer currently and limp mode because it still has The auto ecu in it. Which means no vtec and rev limit at 5k. Thoooo its still faster in limp mode then my 7gen k24 MT. Lol
Anywho, picked up an 08 TL ecu for 100$ with the key and immobilizer, just need Flashpro and the adapter harness and ill switch the tag over as daily driver.
I did drive it 50+ miles home from my work with the auto ecu and didnt have any issues, it was actually quite fun
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Old January 29th, 2018, 08:47 AM   #16
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Finally purchased the Flashpro Adapter harness to use my 08 TL ecu in my 7gen. lastly all i need to call this project complete, will be the actual 07 08 TL Flashpro itself. I will keep this post updated.
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Old March 25th, 2018, 12:38 PM   #17
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Awesome thread bro, I’ve been looking for some info on this swap, and your right about all the old threads saying it’s not worth it. Back then I’m sure it wasn’t. But I wanted to ask abou the clutch pedal install and if it was a straight forward install, along with the master cylinder? I’m actually wanting to do a k24 trans on my V6 using the J2k adapter kit from inline pro. This is due to the cost of the 6-speed trans and that’s if you can even find one. All the ones I found were $1200 and had over 150k on them.. I’m really happy that you included the fact that the k24 trans mounts are the same as the V6 cuz that was one of the questions I was trying to figure out. I didn’t realize that the ECU was going to be such a pain in the ass, as far as cost which sucks but in the end HONDATA is the **** and is worth it!
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Old March 29th, 2018, 11:40 AM   #18
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Thanks Ttali,
as for the clutch and master it was very straight forward, there are indendtions in the fire wall where the clutch pedal holes need to be drilled. drilling the holes and mounting the master to the firewall was pretty simple, and i believe i personally actually used a 92-95 civic mater and it has been working fine over 3k miles. from the mater to the slave i bought a steel braided clutch line off ebay for around 30$. the fitting for the clutch line to the master is the same for the civic master cyl and accord so either master can be used.
i was unaware that a j2k plate has been made that is awesome!!! i paid 700 for my 6mt with 115k miles off ebay, tho i bet a k tranny would hold up fine n/a or slight boost
i also found it quite lovely that 7 gen mounts are the same between v6 and 4cyl, makes for getting parts much easier!

the ecu for me has been the biggest pain in the ass. i seen that ktuner was also offering a flash tuner for the tl ecu im using, i bought it thinking it was similar to flashpro and ended up wasting 500$. As ktuner cannout change the calibration on an ecu from auto to manual or vice versa, however flashpro CAN turn an auto tl ecu to a manual accord 3.0 calibration. so all in all flashpro is def the way to go with our cars.
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Old April 5th, 2018, 04:43 PM   #19
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Sweet, I ask cuz when I look next to the brake booster there’s not much room.. along with a wire loom that goes through the fire wall.. then inside the car the clutch pedal hits something that has wires going to it.. sorry for the lack of proper terminology but I’m a Master HVAC tech by trade and mess with cars on the side... this could possibly due to the clutch pedal I got which is out of a TL but it looked very similar to the accord one. I actually ended up finding a 06 Accord 6-speed with 125k on eBay for $850 shipped so pulled the trigger just due to how much easier the swap is and really cost effective. But again thanks for the response it’s really prepping me before I do the swap
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Old April 5th, 2018, 04:45 PM   #20
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Also what about getting a 6-speed ECU for the time being? I found one on eBay for $161 shipped or something near that
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Old April 8th, 2018, 06:30 PM   #21
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J32/J35 swap

Hi guys this might off topic because most of the 6th gen Accord threads are dead but I was wondering. If the J32A2 heads would bolt on a J35A8 engine? Assuming they are the best flowing J series heads vs J35A8 heads and the J37A1/2/A4 heads.

One more question which upper intake manifold would provide the most air/power increase to the J series engine some choices I have found are P2R J Series Holley EFI Intake Plenum, P2R J Series Power Plenum, High Clearance Intake Manifold v2, J37 upper intake manifold conversion, Custom Dual throttle body conversion intake manifold. If anyone has any other suggestions for other intake manifold choices please say.
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Old April 25th, 2018, 05:50 PM   #22
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Yeah as for installing the clutch pedal and master, i was only able to install everything after removing the brake booster but with the booster out of the way theres plenty more room and the harness there can be a pain just pull the 10mm holding it to the wall and you can more easily move it to the side.
I would think the TL pedal would be the same as an accords, but i actually opted different route and got a more compact easier to work with Willwood clutch pedal off ebay for like 50$.
As for the ecu yes, it would actually be much cheaper to complete that portion of swap with an Accord v6 manaul ecu its just that they are much harder to come by with a matching ignition.
I did buy an accord v6 manual ecu from an 05 and my car is an 05. It didnt come with ignition and so i drove the car in limp mode to the dealer to have it flashed to the v5 manual ecu. Honda couldnt do it because to complete the flashing process itd ask the tech to push in the clutch, in which my car doesnt have the clutch safety switch so i don't believe the honda computer was able to complete the process...wierd..but anyhow i did eventually find an accord v6 manual ecu with matching ignition not too long ago. Swapped the ignition and ecu and good to go, no more check engine light no more codes for torque converter lockup.
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Old April 25th, 2018, 06:19 PM   #23
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J37 twin turbo, yes the j32 heads itself will bolt up to the j35a8 block. As topiston to valve clearence when using j32 cams i have no idea? Something to look in to for sure. Also i like the j37 magnesium intake manifold personally as theyre noticably lighter. Heres a really good thread about j heads and different block combos

http://www.v6performance.net/forums/.../242769?page=1
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Old May 1st, 2018, 06:46 PM   #24
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another difference between the v6 6speed and the auto v6 that you may want to address, is that the v6 manual came with an intake manifold runner control on the intake manifold that the auto does not come with. if using an accord v6 manual ecu after conversion, it will throw a code for intake manifold runner control malfunction (high rpm). To fix, one could either buy an intake from ebay for the manual v6, theyre fairly cheap, and wiring in the imrc to the ecu, orrrr, flashpro has the ability to disable unwanted sensors. reguardless its more info that i wanted to share and forgot to mention.
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Old October 16th, 2018, 09:36 PM   #25
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Guys be sure to put the auto tranny in park before you start, and pull the selector sensor off the auto tranny leaving it connected to the auto harness. Ive had questions about this recently.. Use the auto harness, with the gear select sensor still plugged in, in the park position. So auto harness and a manual accord ecu... That or a tl ecu and flashpro..with that, and the two vss plugged in, everything will be good to go..
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Old October 17th, 2018, 08:58 PM   #26
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Great write up Steve. Thanks! I need to replace my clutch on my 05 with 6MT and I want to swap in the Acura tranny with limited slip, but I can't find much in the way of advice on pulling the transaxle. Since I don't have a vehicle lift, I was thinking about taking it out the top rather than the bottom. I guess I'd have to pull the engine but I don't know if that's more or less work than dropping the cradle (sub frame). When I first read your description about pulling it out the wheel well I got excited, but then I realized you also had to drop the subframe (and exhaust and steering rack, etc...)

What else do I need in the way of tools? It looks like you used the tool to align the clutch plate. Was there anything else specific?
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Old October 27th, 2018, 08:34 AM   #27
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Honestly, pulling it out thru the wheelwell is a bit more tedious then lifting thru the top, but its entirely possible if you dont have access to an engine hoist. If you do have a hoist your easiest bet will be to pull from the top. If not then you can remove the all the stuff and pull from the bottom...it didnt require and special tools no, mainly a 10,12,14,17,19mm wrenches and sockets, and a good impact gun helps lol but a ratchet will do...only special tool really was the clutch alignment tool that came with the clutch kit
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Old November 5th, 2018, 09:35 AM   #28
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Question - did you experience any loud squealing noises after you put everything back together? I just finished an engine swap on my 6-6 sedan and replaced the clutch while everything was apart. The squealing noise appears about 15 seconds after startup, and goes away if the slightest amount of pressure is placed on the clutch pedal. If I wiggle the clutch fork around, the noise also disappears and comes back. Any ideas? I appreciate it.
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Old December 19th, 2018, 06:11 PM   #29
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Sounds like you might need to inspect your throw out bearing and or the fork itself to make sure its not bent. Other then that, possibly a damaged pressure plate? Im really leaning towards that squeal being the throw out bearing having debris or excessive wear..
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Old December 19th, 2018, 06:48 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jquerius View Post
Question - did you experience any loud squealing noises after you put everything back together? I just finished an engine swap on my 6-6 sedan and replaced the clutch while everything was apart. The squealing noise appears about 15 seconds after startup, and goes away if the slightest amount of pressure is placed on the clutch pedal. If I wiggle the clutch fork around, the noise also disappears and comes back. Any ideas? I appreciate it.
which engine did you swap in? i had a similar issue from using a j37 crank which had a different thickness mounting surface for the flywheel, which essentially pulled the entire clutch/pp/flywheel .2" away from the tob/fork assembly which caused the spring inside the slave to not apply enough preload on the tob to keep it in strong enough contact with the pp fingers. it manifested exactly as you are describing. our tob should be in CONSTANT contact with the pp. if anyone doesn't believe me reach down and grab the fork in neutral it vibrates, push it sway from the pp and the vibration goes away, release and the spring inside the slave will push the tob back onto the pp fingers and it will start vibrating again (from the contact w the pp). it is the same way in my brothers completely unmolested 9g.
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