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Old May 8th, 2008, 10:37 PM   #1
ELP_JC
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FINALLY test-rode a 6MT today. Have questions.

Hi gang. After many months of waiting, finally was able to take a black/black V6 6MT for a spin. Even though I was alone, didn't hammer it out of respect for new engines (and neither wanted to put more than 10 miles), but I believe you guys that it sounds great on VTEC range. It has plenty of power for me, even though I currently drive a GTO. Wish I could have put more miles, but wanted to make sure highway noise was subdued (it is; mostly tire roar), and that took most of the 10 miles.

I was disappointed at 2 things.
First, hated how the revs hang; that forces you to shift ever so slow to avoid abrupt shifts. It's not a deal breaker, but wouldn't put an exhaust without disabling that. Don't want people asking you to blip the throttle only to get: vrOOOMMMMMm, rather than vrOOOm. I remember my '90 Accord Coupe doing the same thing; Why? My GTO doesn't do it, Porsches don't do it. Oh well. Any way to change that thru tuning? Comments welcome.

Second, the darn shift knob it waaaay too high. Tried disengaging the boot from the knob but didn't readily drop down so left it alone. It must 'click' to the knob, but how the heck do you remove it? Felt the shaft thru the boot and didn't feel any threads below the knob, so only way to shorten the stock shaft would be to remove it, cut it, and rethread it about 1-1/2" lower. Shift action is so buttery you could shorten the shaft even more without a problem IMO.
Can somebody tell me how to remove the boot from the knob? And if somebody has removed the boot, can you tell me if it's possible to remove the shaft from above to get it cut and rethreaded? If not, what's involved to remove the shaft to be cut? I'd really appreciate comments on this, as the stock knob would look and feel awesome 1-1/2" lower IMO.

Finally, clutch rests too high for my tastes, but can get used to it quickly. Just a minor annoyance.

I really enjoyed driving it. Very solid feeling vehicle. The 3 things above are nit picking, really. I can get used to the revs hanging and high clutch pedal, but definitely need to do something about the shift height. Shifter itself felt great; not the best out there, but very nice, to the point I wouldn't mess with it. That's why I'd like just to cut the stock shaft and call it a day. I'll try to sell my car for $23,500 (down from $25K), but otherwise will keep it, as it won't lose any value over the next year. And since I won't buy another V8 again, might as well enjoy it for a little longer. It'd take me a ton of miles to spend $7K extra in gas over the 6MT. Why I'm not eager to replace it now? Well, the 6MT is only 2 mpg better than my car, so can't really justify throwing 10 grand with that excuse, especially when I put about 5K miles a year on my personal car. The other thing is I still need to drive a 335i 6M and see if it feels $10K better than the Accord. Take care, and thank you in advance for your comments.
JC
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Old May 8th, 2008, 11:49 PM   #2
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Nice review. How was the handling and fast cornering? The accord is so big now, I imagine it can't be good.

Let us know how the 335i feels.
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Old May 9th, 2008, 06:36 AM   #3
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OEM for OEM the 335 will handle better, I own one and have driven the other extensively. HOWEVER, I can get the accord to handle as well and even much better than that 335... it just take some extra effort and investment as performance is not free.

whether or not any other manufacturer does it, the hang in throttle response you refer to is common in this model and related to a liter weight crank, rotating assemblies and nice primary balance... and I am sure the throttle by wire does not help either.

The boot for the shifter has to be gotten from from below the console. Personally, I want a higher shifter not a lower one, but to each his own
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Old May 9th, 2008, 07:00 AM   #4
 
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Glad you finally got a chance to test drive one!
regarding your concerns:
1) that's due to the drive-by-wire throttle. Civic Si and '06+ Elises do the same thing. Not sure how you'd change that. I too prefer a mechanical throttle linkage.
2) shifter gripe easily fixed with a shorter knob. There will probably be a B&M short shifter available eventually.
3) agreed, although it's actually better than the gen 7.
No comparison to the vastly superior driving experience of the 335i, only you can decide if it's worth $10 K more. I have to have FWD, so the BMW is out.
I'd recommend the HFP suspension and better tires if you do pull the trigger.
I've had no problems so far in 4 month ownership and I think it's my best DD yet! Comfortable, fast and turns heads!
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Old May 9th, 2008, 04:23 PM   #5
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Thank you for the responses so far; much appreciated.

The revs hanging is not a matter of throttle-by-wire (my GTO has it, and revs don't hang at all); I bet it's a matter of emmissions (abruptly cutting throttle increases them), but it's hard to understand with modern EFI, where injectors can be cut instantaneously. I don't remember BMW 6s having this, and certainly not the V8 M3 I test-drove either.

As far as handling, I only had a chance to push it a little in the only corner I negotiated, and did a lot better than I anticipated due to its size and FWD, so no complains in that department at all (would leave it as is).

About the shifter, I also liked it, so wouldn't even mess with another shifter. Just want to cut the stock shaft 1-1/2 inches.

Let me ask just one question this time in hopes to get it answered: How is the boot dislodged from the knob? I'm talking about the top of the boot, next to the knob.

To remove the boot, the top of the console has to come out; no other way. I also wanted to know if it's a relatively easy job to remove the stock shaft where the knob screws in, to judge how big of a job it'd be to cut it. I could always cut it in the car, and rethread it with a new set of tools I have never used, but prefer not to do that on a new car.

Oh, and the 335i the way I'd buy it (just with premium pckg) is not $10K; it's freaking $17K+taxes more (ouch!).
Thanks again for all your help.
JC
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Old May 9th, 2008, 06:11 PM   #6
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the boot lifts off the end/top of the nob from underneath once the boot and shift assembly are detached form under the console. It involves unbolting and re-bolting the shift mechanism and console, you can turn bolts lefty loosey and righty tighty right? though so... adjusting the play in the cables after reassembly may require some finesse.
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Old May 9th, 2008, 11:03 PM   #7
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you can turn bolts lefty loosey and righty tighty right?
Oh yeah! And I'd buy a service manual before doing anything, like always, but wanted to know in advance what I'd be getting into. For some reason, I never had second thought taking apart my brand new GTO, and I've made it a much better car than new, but Japanese cars are much better put together, and I usually do minimal stuff to them, but still like to know how they function, and read service manuals cover to cover.

Anyway, thanks for the heads up. Glad to know you don't have to remove the knob first before removing the console, which has been the case in all my other cars with threaded knobs (like the Coupe). My GTO's knob is GLUED to the shaft (plus have 4 'hooks'), and it's a royal PITA to remove, but the shaft is only held by 2 bolts, and the whole thing is easily removed once the console is lifted. Not even the local Pontiac techs know how to remove it; that's why I do all my maintenance.
Now I'm ready to jump on board. Just have to make the decision when to take the loss. Have a good one folks.
JC
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Old May 9th, 2008, 11:30 PM   #8
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The revs are hanging most likely because it has a heavy flywheel (more momentum). Put a lighter one on there and your revs will drop to idle as soon as you push the clutch in.
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Old May 9th, 2008, 11:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
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want to cut the stock shaft 1-1/2 inches.
Don't hear many guys saying they want to lose an inch and a half off their shaft...
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Old May 9th, 2008, 11:55 PM   #10
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give lorena bobbit a call...i heard shes very experience in shaft cutting...lmfao
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Old May 10th, 2008, 07:01 AM   #11
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there is some speculation that the MUGEN short throw euro accord shifter will work on our cars... it looks to be stoutly built to. now only if I could get one here sometime soon

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Old May 10th, 2008, 10:32 AM   #12
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there is some speculation that the MUGEN short throw euro accord shifter will work on our cars... it looks to be stoutly built
So that's what a FWD shifter looks like; thanks for that pic man.

But if you call plastic 'stoutly built', I'm afraid to ask what is a stocker made of . At any rate, it seems to be a simple affair to remove.

Hey, do you guys have a 'how to' section that shows how to remove the console? Most times service manuals are not detailed enough to avoid breaking a tab or such. Thanks gang.
JC
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Old May 10th, 2008, 07:35 PM   #13
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I'm still bummed that the direct link is cable opperated... Looks to me like a simple affair to retro fit a BM type shifter
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Old May 11th, 2008, 09:12 PM   #14
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I'm still bummed that the direct link is cable opperated
It's not a linkage??? Oh man. Now I want a shifter. No wonder why first felt disconnected a couple of times. On the plus side, it's a good cable. I thought it had a crappy linkage, just like my GTO (although the gates are very well defined).
By the way, even the M3's shifter felt rubbery. Best I've tried was the Cayman S, but the 3 cars mentioned are perfectly acceptable to me for street driving. Take care.
JC
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