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Old March 10th, 2006, 06:29 PM   #1
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Just did a baseline dyno (3 runs)

Did first run in second gear and the second and third run in third gear.

My best run was in third gear (obviously):
164hp/158tq

I think its either on par or a little lower then its supposed to be.
I have the following performance mods:
-CLS cams
-Comptech headers
-Magnaflow catback
-stock intake with no resonators
-Thermoblock spacers
-Mugen cooling mods
-NGK Iridium plugs (one heat range cooler)
-Neo Synthetic Oil 5-30 (motor and ATF)
-tranny cooler

Seems like torque is pretty good for an untuned car up to 5400rpm then it starts to take a dive.

I'll try and get a pic of the graph up soon, but I'm still waiting on the email from the dyno guy since they didn't know how to save it to a floppy since the dyno guy wasn't there.

edit: heres a pic of my dyno


Blue: 2nd gear, wanted the whole rpm range but they mesed up
Everything else is third gear, the third run we actually used a fan on the car.

Last edited by Accord_V6_400m; March 31st, 2006 at 04:31 PM..
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Old March 10th, 2006, 06:30 PM   #2
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wow pretty good numbers
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Old March 10th, 2006, 08:56 PM   #3
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Seems kind of low to me. Maybe your curves are straight...
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Old March 10th, 2006, 09:08 PM   #4
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i think u should have made alot more power than 164... i mean u got comptech headers and u got cams
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Old March 10th, 2006, 09:09 PM   #5
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yea, i thought its kinda low too.

btw, where and how much for dyno?
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Old March 10th, 2006, 09:17 PM   #6
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I don't know much about 6th gen but yeah it seems low to me as well. I thought cls cam gives pretty decent power on the 6th gen v6. I mean... your number is very close to mine and I have I4 Which dynometer was it?
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Old March 10th, 2006, 09:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doom
Seems kind of low to me. Maybe your curves are straight...

Seems kinda really low to me. I remember making 177whp or thereabouts on a dynojet with i/h/e, and even THAT was considered crappy.

For starters, get rid of the stock airbox, but even then...

Last edited by -=SoCalV6=-; March 10th, 2006 at 09:35 PM..
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Old March 10th, 2006, 10:00 PM   #8
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hurnnhhh??? wow the 7th gens really did up their game then in this case..
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Old March 11th, 2006, 12:05 AM   #9
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Yeah it was a dynojet SAE corrected and all

The curves are pretty straight.

I got my car dynoed at the same place as Siggy its called

Hook-Ups Import Tex
8455 Loma Pl. Upland CA 91786
909-373-RACE

I asked Khan about it and he thought it wwas also low but the torque was alright but as I mentioned the torque dropped off at 5400rpms maybe tuning makes a big difference?
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Old March 11th, 2006, 12:07 AM   #10
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was the run for $40?
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Old March 11th, 2006, 12:08 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiet
was the run for $40?
Nah, it was 3 runs for $60
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Old March 11th, 2006, 10:19 AM   #12
 
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ya im thinking this is pretty low dyno numbers for all ur mods... but u don't have intake and pulleys? CLS cams don't give big gains? try to get a VAFC II and then re dyno
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Old March 11th, 2006, 12:09 PM   #13
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Not sure how much tuning I should even attempt since I'll be supercharging the car soon, hopefully the numbers are low because of the lack of tuning and the fact that I don't have a "real" intake.
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Old March 11th, 2006, 03:02 PM   #14
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man.. tranny must really suck..

my stock inline 4 lude can pull those numbers.. torque is nearly similar as well between I4 and V6..
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Old March 11th, 2006, 03:36 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Accord_V6_400m
Not sure how much tuning I should even attempt since I'll be supercharging the car soon, hopefully the numbers are low because of the lack of tuning and the fact that I don't have a "real" intake.
If you're gonna get a blower, don't even waste your money tuning right now.

The cams are probably playing the biggest part in power band characteristics when it comes to interacting with all your other modifications. I find it still questionable whether the cams do good or bad in the lower rpms with the whole "opening both intake valves rather than the one below vtec" since honda delibrately did this to promote intake velocity as well as swirl mixture formation rather than overall air volume/flow for lower rpm power for the j30a1's heads/manifold characteristics . Never truly seen a before/after dyno with just camshafts. Your stock intake isn't probably restricting power in the lower rpms, but it could be in the higher rpms, coupled with the added capacity for airflow with the camshafts/headers/exhaust, which might explain the peak torque production dropping relatively lower than the normal 5700/5800 rpms. Go to an expert for this.

Make sure your plugs aren't fouling as well since you're delibrately at a lower heat range, which I assume you're planning for the blower, but probably isn't great for Naturally aspirated power production.
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Old March 11th, 2006, 05:40 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -=SoCalV6=-
If you're gonna get a blower, don't even waste your money tuning right now.

The cams are probably playing the biggest part in power band characteristics when it comes to interacting with all your other modifications. I find it still questionable whether the cams do good or bad in the lower rpms with the whole "opening both intake valves rather than the one below vtec" since honda delibrately did this to promote intake velocity as well as swirl mixture formation rather than overall air volume/flow for lower rpm power for the j30a1's heads/manifold characteristics . Never truly seen a before/after dyno with just camshafts. Your stock intake isn't probably restricting power in the lower rpms, but it could be in the higher rpms, coupled with the added capacity for airflow with the camshafts/headers/exhaust, which might explain the peak torque production dropping relatively lower than the normal 5700/5800 rpms. Go to an expert for this.

Make sure your plugs aren't fouling as well since you're delibrately at a lower heat range, which I assume you're planning for the blower, but probably isn't great for Naturally aspirated power production.
I'm pretty sure the VTEC system goes unchanged by changing the cams its just the lift and duration that changes a bit.

As for the stock intake it isn't that restrictive its probably just the filter since the intake system as I have it right now doesn't have any resonators.

I'll check the plugs and also clean out my fuel injectors since I still have a loud tickign sound coming possibly from them.
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Old March 11th, 2006, 10:21 PM   #17
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I did cooler plugs with Denso Ik20's and my car was a slug. I bet that's one of the reasons. But ticking is not a good thing.
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Old March 12th, 2006, 02:47 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Accord_V6_400m
I'm pretty sure the VTEC system goes unchanged by changing the cams its just the lift and duration that changes a bit.

As for the stock intake it isn't that restrictive its probably just the filter since the intake system as I have it right now doesn't have any resonators.

I'll check the plugs and also clean out my fuel injectors since I still have a loud tickign sound coming possibly from them.
Err, I didn't mean the VTEC engagement get's changed in regards to rpm. Rather, on the Av6 camshafts, there's only one prominent intake lobe below vtec, therefore only one valve gets opened, the other I believe either gets cracked open or doesn't open at all, can't remember. The CL-S cams, however, allow both intake valves to open due to both lobes being prominent lobes, therefore airflow/intake velocity characteristics below vtec will definitely be altered due to the fact that you're introducing something that wasn't intended for the rest of the engine components (they were tuned for the stock camshafts).

As for the stock airbox, your call...

Jun's dynos

Last edited by -=SoCalV6=-; March 12th, 2006 at 02:50 AM..
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Old March 12th, 2006, 03:54 AM   #19
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short ram had great top-end.. but all around powerband wise, CAI owns all.

what exactly was this "modified stock airbox"? without resonator? k&N filter drop-in?
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Old March 12th, 2006, 02:52 PM   #20
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Yeah I tried calling the shop and no one is there. I'll try calling them tomorrow and ask them if they can email me my dyno since the guy whon knew how could not.

My intake right now is just the stock tubing with a paper filter but the first resonator is removed and the second one between the TB and icebox is plugged up so the air just passes over it.

I used to have the KN drop in until I sold it in anticipation of my supercharger.
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Old March 30th, 2006, 08:14 PM   #21
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good to hear u got ur car dyno .. did u ask them the price and they told u 60? or u told them the price i told u and they said 60? haha u shoulda had ur car tuned mite as well cuz it's only 40 more than wut u paid ... anyway sry tht the price isnt wut i told u // dont know why they charge that much
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Old March 30th, 2006, 10:23 PM   #22
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The dyno does seem low. Assuming there's a 20% loss from the crank to the wheels. Your stock V6 should put out around 160 WHP anyway. I'm wondering if it'd respond better with an SRI as it's a V6, as I've heard for V6s the SRI actually perform better than the CAI in terms of gains.

The car needs to be tuned. Cams, headers, and exhaust alone should give you better numbers not just a minimal increase you're seeing.
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Old March 31st, 2006, 12:06 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OwAce
hurnnhhh??? wow the 7th gens really did up their game then in this case..
Andy has the TSX engine on his 7gen thats why.
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Old March 31st, 2006, 03:19 PM   #24
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would have to see his graphs to see if tuning is needed. v6 400m do u feel any more power when u get on it at freeway speeds? i had my ride dynoed after installing cams and the 1st shop did it all wrong. they ran all 3 runs with the air/ fuel at 18/1. just putting in the cams made it breath that much more so i would not wait to tune it if it is ur daily driver. as for asking if u feel more power, the first shop said the cams were in wrong and the engine lost power but i knew it felt stronger when i got on it at freeway speeds (70 mph). when i finaly got it dynoed right i saw that the cams only gave me 7 (peak) hp at the wheels. (3900rpms) but there was a25hp and 25ftlb gain at 6200rpms. i still need to dial the cams back 4 degrees but at least i now have my air to fuel right thanks to the apexi unit. its u call but i dont know about waiting to tune.
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Old March 31st, 2006, 03:24 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwic
would have to see his graphs to see if tuning is needed. v6 400m do u feel any more power when u get on it at freeway speeds? i had my ride dynoed after installing cams and the 1st shop did it all wrong. they ran all 3 runs with the air/ fuel at 18/1. just putting in the cams made it breath that much more so i would not wait to tune it if it is ur daily driver. as for asking if u feel more power, the first shop said the cams were in wrong and the engine lost power but i knew it felt stronger when i got on it at freeway speeds (70 mph). when i finaly got it dynoed right i saw that the cams only gave me 7 (peak) hp at the wheels. (3900rpms) but there was a25hp and 25ftlb gain at 6200rpms. i still need to dial the cams back 4 degrees but at least i now have my air to fuel right thanks to the apexi unit. its u call but i dont know about waiting to tune.
clay
Thats interesting yeah I felt power on the freeway I feels like its pulling you into VTEC a lot more... pressuring you into going fast.

Yeah we'll see how I go about tuning the car when I drop the SC on. Right now I've adjusted my valves twice and still am not happy with the ticking sound, seems like one cylinder in the back is bothering me
Painted the valve covers though. I'll take a picture of the dyno sheet and upload it. Wish they sent me a digital file of the dyno graph.. but... noooo. they can't for some reason.

edit:
I posted a pic of my dyno, finally...

Last edited by Accord_V6_400m; March 31st, 2006 at 04:30 PM..
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Old April 2nd, 2006, 06:13 PM   #26
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curves look about the same as the other posted just above. too bad u did not get a true stock baseline to see where ur gains were. and it would be nice to see ur air to fuel before u decide not to tune it.
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Old April 2nd, 2006, 08:20 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doom
I did cooler plugs with Denso Ik20's and my car was a slug. I bet that's one of the reasons. But ticking is not a good thing.
i use IK16s and have no problems.
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Old April 2nd, 2006, 08:24 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Tofu_Shop
i use IK16s and have no problems.
True I had no problems with them either. Just felt that I would instal my colder plugs in preparation for the SC which at the time I felt was going to be installed soon

Most NA engines with little mods I suppose work better at the optimal temperature range so with all of teh cooling mods that I have it probably didn't help.

Just glad I finaly took a pic of my dyno and posted it
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Old April 3rd, 2006, 09:20 AM   #29
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Yeah I'd love to have ik16's but no cash.
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Old April 3rd, 2006, 03:16 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doom
Yeah I'd love to have ik16's but no cash.
Yeah I'm feeling you bro, the only cash I have is my lucky 2 dollar bill, kind of ironic huh?

You know your broke when you have to pass up a good deal

I've seen those plus for $50-60 shipped on ebay and about $45 shipped for NGKs

NGK plugs
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