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Old March 29th, 2006, 09:44 PM   #1
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my s/c accord dyno :(









today i went to have my car dyno'ed and tuned. i went over to scott perfromance in santa clara. he tuned my car using a labtop but did not put in on a dyno. i was dissapointed 2 find out that his dyno would not be able to work with an accord cause its fwd. (he said his dyno worked best on rwd cars and my car is fwd so itd be to close to the wall).....so m thinking FINALLY i got my car tuned. he refers me over to dyno spot racing because i wanted a dyno and a printout. when they do pulls on my car and give me the printout, im kind of dissapointed. As you can see from the graphs, from 4,000-6,000 rpm it says the car is running rich. so i go back to scott performance and he explains to me he tuned the car for the street, whereas dsr dynoed from a dyno (his is more accurate hes implying). i thought ok.......dsr says the car is running way to rich and if it was properly tuned then it would have been leaned out from 4000-6000 rpm and i would have pickup 10-15 hp. whats your guys opinion of the graph?

my mods include, comptech supercharger with cls pulley, comptech headers, greedy catback, thermoblock spacers (manifold only) fresh ik20 plugs, ur crank pulley's, mugen cooling mods,fresh redline atf, redline water wetter, comptech tranny cooler, and lastly and most importantly a UNICHIP

scott perfromance is unichip cerified whereas dsr isnt....... both seem very knowledgeable.....i drove 120 miles each way and im not happy with the results...scoot performance offered to retune it if i feel its not correct.

someone please shine in some light, im dissapointed


some please gimme their email and ill email you the graphs and hopefully ul have luck getting them on here

Last edited by slowaccord; March 31st, 2006 at 07:29 PM..
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Old March 29th, 2006, 10:45 PM   #2
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Mine is pretty rich in the mid too. From 4000-5500RPM it goes from 11.0 down to 10.4 and back up to 11.0 by 5500RPM and leans out to almost 12 at redline. My car goes as lean as 12.5 around 3200-3500RPM.

I'm only tuning via CT FPR. Being really rich in the mid is something I'm going to have to deal with until I can tune with a better engine management device. Your HP number is up there though but your TQ can be higher imo.

Here's my dyno & afr numbers for you to compare:




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Old March 29th, 2006, 11:05 PM   #3
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my ratio dips way below even ten. i think at some points it was as low as 8 and 9
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Old March 29th, 2006, 11:08 PM   #4
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its odd cause when they were dyno'ing my car the belt was looking like it wanted 2 slide off. then i got home and checked it and it was fine
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Old March 29th, 2006, 11:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowaccord
my ratio dips way below even ten. i think at some points it was as low as 8 and 9
Euh....that's way too rich. Did they adjust the FPR before tuning the Unichip?
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Old March 29th, 2006, 11:44 PM   #6
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what i know is that if you run a Unichip, upgrade on injectors is a plus to have the s/c perform better.
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Old March 30th, 2006, 08:05 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackV62K2
Euh....that's way too rich. Did they adjust the FPR before tuning the Unichip?
i asked him if he physically adjusted the fpr, he said no. he and another guy hooked up a labtop on my car and went on a long drive, and he said that on this drive they optimized the air/fuel for the whole powerband and put it in the safe range. they did all this without going under the hood i presume.

so which shop is correct? the one who said they did street tuning or the shop who did the dyno tuning?
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Old March 30th, 2006, 08:35 AM   #8
 
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dam wish i had ur problem lol....nice s/c dyno tho... from a stoplite,if u keep ur rpms to 2000 or lower when upshifting...does ur s/c v6 still pull??? or still bad low end torque?
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Old March 30th, 2006, 08:54 AM   #9
 
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what i dont understand is how are you making it all the way up to 6800 rpm?
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Old March 30th, 2006, 11:57 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viper
what i dont understand is how are you making it all the way up to 6800 rpm?
yea im not sure why its reading that high on the rpm scale either. i do notice that if i floor it from a stop i can hit about 6400 rpm in first gear (it goes real deep into first gear. i think all 2000 accords might do that).....what i dont get is on the street the car feels like a beast, but once it gets on a dyno it cant perform.....i think heatsoak might have been a problem during the dyno cause i drove about 120 miles hahahahha. and they used one really small fan also so that ight affect numbers as well.
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Old March 30th, 2006, 11:59 AM   #11
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Check the FPR Idiling psi, and make sure it is around 35psi. I think the FPR comes stock at 25 for the regular accord pulley, but it needs to be on or around 35 for the CL-S HBP.
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Old March 30th, 2006, 12:00 PM   #12
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hey blackv62k2 we have the exact same mods except im without cams and your without a unichip....shouldn't our graphs read pretty identical???? cause ur dyno looks waaaaaay better than mine
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Old March 30th, 2006, 12:07 PM   #13
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You should be happy, i was dynoed at 242.7whp, 200lb tq. Without my UR pulley, thermoblock Spacer, and a busted belt tensioner. I have all of that now, and i want to get my mugen mods installed too but i havent had time, so im really hoping to hit the 260+ mark, if not, im done with my car, and prolly get rid of it LOL

Last edited by spectro; March 30th, 2006 at 12:14 PM..
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Old March 30th, 2006, 02:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spectro
You should be happy, i was dynoed at 242.7whp, 200lb tq. Without my UR pulley, thermoblock Spacer, and a busted belt tensioner. I have all of that now, and i want to get my mugen mods installed too but i havent had time, so im really hoping to hit the 260+ mark, if not, im done with my car, and prolly get rid of it LOL

hahahaha, so you think mines isnt that bad? i was just reading the mid range pwoer and thought it was kinda low......the low range and high end seem ok......i just wanted the midrange to be about 10-15 hp higher..
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Old March 30th, 2006, 02:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowaccord
hey blackv62k2 we have the exact same mods except im without cams and your without a unichip....shouldn't our graphs read pretty identical???? cause ur dyno looks waaaaaay better than mine
You need to lean out your AFR cause your mid is just way too rich. I suggest getting the CT FPR adjusted to around 32 psi at idle and then tune from there with your Unichip (I don't remember the exact number for the psi but it's in the range of 30-35 psi).

I personally perfer a dyno tune instead of a street tune, so if you're going to do it again, do it on the dyno. As for our dyno looking the same, cams might be the difference or bad tuning could also bring your numbers down. If you can, do a run without the Unichip and then a run with. That'll verify if it's the tuning that's hurting you.
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Old March 30th, 2006, 02:33 PM   #16
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Yeah the Accords with DIS don't seem to do as well. We for one need ignition upgrades.

Yeah mine NA is pretty low to but it was in prep for the SC so I had some mods that wouldn't help if you were SCed.

You might want to consider getting those Mugen cooling mods which are lower temp thermostat, fan switch and 1.3bar radiator cap. Some guy on Acurazine got 8whp out of it.

I think your torque could be a little higher especially since Blacks is hovering above 230lb-ft.
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Old March 30th, 2006, 02:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spectro
You should be happy, i was dynoed at 242.7whp, 200lb tq. Without my UR pulley, thermoblock Spacer, and a busted belt tensioner. I have all of that now, and i want to get my mugen mods installed too but i havent had time, so im really hoping to hit the 260+ mark, if not, im done with my car, and prolly get rid of it LOL
Only a few members are over the 260+ mark with the CL-S HBP. Anywhere from 250-260whp is very respectable with the CL-S HBP. Only thing I'm wondering about with your car is the low TQ number. So don't sell your car just cause you can't hit over 260whp LOL
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Old March 30th, 2006, 03:34 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Accord_V6_400m
Yeah the Accords with DIS don't seem to do as well. We for one need ignition upgrades.

Yeah mine NA is pretty low to but it was in prep for the SC so I had some mods that wouldn't help if you were SCed.

You might want to consider getting those Mugen cooling mods which are lower temp thermostat, fan switch and 1.3bar radiator cap. Some guy on Acurazine got 8whp out of it.

I think your torque could be a little higher especially since Blacks is hovering above 230lb-ft.
damn but i do got the mugen cooling mods, i just forgot to list them on top. i edited it......
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Old March 30th, 2006, 03:50 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackV62K2
Only a few members are over the 260+ mark with the CL-S HBP. Anywhere from 250-260whp is very respectable with the CL-S HBP. Only thing I'm wondering about with your car is the low TQ number. So don't sell your car just cause you can't hit over 260whp LOL

Well, i actually did a little math, and it seems to be just about right with an error margin of 100% LOL. Stock without crank, spacer, and no cooling mods installed, 242whp and 200tq. UR pulley about 10whp and 13tq making it 252whp, 213tq, (i was told by one of the UR guys that it actually releases more tq due to the decrease of weight and most guys i know got an increase of 8 to 15 whp and tq) The Spacer should help a little, about 5whp, 2tq, making it 257whp and 215tq. The cooling mods should prolly be about another 5whp, and 3tq, making it like 262whp, and 218tq. And i went single exhaust with the 2.5 which should help a little since when i had the dyno done i had a huge crack on my flex pipe and that might have cause the loss of tq. So if everything goes right, i will show up again hoping that i do get over 260whp and around 220tq, and be happy. If not, im not selling my car, but i wont be putting more money on it.
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Old March 30th, 2006, 04:05 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spectro
Well, i actually did a little math, and it seems to be just about right with an error margin of 100% LOL. Stock without crank, spacer, and no cooling mods installed, 242whp and 200tq. UR pulley about 10whp and 13tq making it 252whp, 213tq, (i was told by one of the UR guys that it actually releases more tq due to the decrease of weight and most guys i know got an increase of 8 to 15 whp and tq) The Spacer should help a little, about 5whp, 2tq, making it 257whp and 215tq. The cooling mods should prolly be about another 5whp, and 3tq, making it like 262whp, and 218tq. And i went single exhaust with the 2.5 which should help a little since when i had the dyno done i had a huge crack on my flex pipe and that might have cause the loss of tq. So if everything goes right, i will show up again hoping that i do get over 260whp and around 220tq, and be happy. If not, im not selling my car, but i wont be putting more money on it.

hmmmm i have every mod u just mentioned and i didnt get that much torque either

well everything the same except for the exhaust
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Old March 30th, 2006, 04:47 PM   #21
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Well, for me, im really really positive the crack on the flex pipe was the reason why my tq was too low. These guys at Auto Wave were sure of that too, and i can rely on that and use as an educated guess since all they do is work on NSX's for the most part, so they kinda know whan true performance is, and what may cause a decrease on it. I wont be hitting the dyno for a while so i wont be able to get straight answers for that. Make sure everything is nice and tight, including the SC belt and make sure there arent any exhaust leaks either. I really wish we all lived really close to each other just to hang around and do dyno groups, which would be really nice lol. Ok, i'll stop hijacking your thread now...
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Old March 30th, 2006, 05:23 PM   #22
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naw ur not hijacking...u bought up a really good point about leaks...i think ill have someone sea foam my car and since the smoke is colored ill be able 2 find any header or exhaust leaks.... i hope v6p has another $40 dyno day or something cause i wanna dyno again but dont want 2 pay $125
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Old March 30th, 2006, 05:26 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackV62K2
You need to lean out your AFR cause your mid is just way too rich. I suggest getting the CT FPR adjusted to around 32 psi at idle and then tune from there with your Unichip (I don't remember the exact number for the psi but it's in the range of 30-35 psi).

I personally perfer a dyno tune instead of a street tune, so if you're going to do it again, do it on the dyno. As for our dyno looking the same, cams might be the difference or bad tuning could also bring your numbers down. If you can, do a run without the Unichip and then a run with. That'll verify if it's the tuning that's hurting you.
hey if i leaned the mid range out to like 12:1 would i risk blowing my motor up? the guy was telling me this....also it gets as hot as 106 in sacramento in the summer time, so i think i cant tune so perfect, it might have 2 be a little conservative....this was the arguement of the guy who did the road tuning with a labtop.
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Old March 30th, 2006, 06:53 PM   #24
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PM me your phone # and what time to call you. Its easier to explain on the phone, then doing all the typing. The short of it is that you need to adjust your CT fpr to lean out alittle and that will bring your WTQ #s up!!!
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Old March 30th, 2006, 08:08 PM   #25
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Quote:
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PM me your phone # and what time to call you. Its easier to explain on the phone, then doing all the typing. The short of it is that you need to adjust your CT fpr to lean out alittle and that will bring your WTQ #s up!!!
so i can do this by self?...............cause the guy who tuned my car offered to redo it if in not satisfied
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Old March 30th, 2006, 09:07 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowaccord
hey if i leaned the mid range out to like 12:1 would i risk blowing my motor up? the guy was telling me this....also it gets as hot as 106 in sacramento in the summer time, so i think i cant tune so perfect, it might have 2 be a little conservative....this was the arguement of the guy who did the road tuning with a labtop.
Isn't that the opposite? You would think that you have to be more rich if you live in colder weather due to denser air.

Aim for around 11.5 AFR to be on the safe side. You can't just lean out the mid with the CT FPR cause leaning out the mid will lean out the already lean low and high end. You shouldn't have a problem with your Unichip though.
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Old March 30th, 2006, 09:32 PM   #27
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well im thinking cause he had alot of sensors hooked up he might have also been able to tell the intake charge temperature.....or maybe the dyno shops air/fuel ratio is wrong? im just not sure. i might take it 2 the track and see what it runs. if it runs really slow then ill probably need 2 take it back
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Old March 31st, 2006, 07:21 AM   #28
 
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hows ur tranny holding up slowaccord... do u drive the car hard with a s/c??? or baby it
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Old March 31st, 2006, 01:06 PM   #29
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its my commuter car...so all the miles i put on it are very very easy i put about 65-70 miles on it 5 days a week at least
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Old March 31st, 2006, 03:10 PM   #30
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well the hotter it is the higher chances for detonation. If it gets that hot then yeah they were trying to be conservative just like the OEM ECU and make sure that thers no way with all those variables that you could blow your motor.

02AV6 told me to approach 11.0:1 as I approach high end, in other words don't go leaner then that for high end.

You should do a basic diagnostic and see if your leaking any ehaust gases or intake air.
When I got my low dyno numbers I had an exhaust leak at the rear header where it meets up with the downpipe.

Do you have a bigger TB or intake manifolds?
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