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Old August 1st, 2006, 11:10 PM   #1
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slowaccords supercharged dyno

This past friday i headed over to comptech in el dorado for a retune. This time my unichip came out and only the fpr would be used to make adjustments. The air/fuel was read at the tail pipe. I was told that if you read it at the header it would read about half a point higher. My last dyno had the air/fuel read at the tailpipe also. The midrange leaned out a little from my last dyno but the top end was starving on the dyno. In the winter time I might need to run higher octane but for the summer it should work.

Let me list mods: comptech supercharger with cls pulley, comptech headers, greedy evo1 catback, thermoblock spacers, UR crank pulley, mugen cooling mods, comptech tranny cooler, IK20 iridium plugs, tuned with FPR. The major difference between this run and last dyno run was removal of UNICHIP.

heres the old run:



heres the new run:



and heres the numbers on paper:




discuss.
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Old August 1st, 2006, 11:17 PM   #2
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am I seeing things or did comptech lose you 30 hp?
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Old August 1st, 2006, 11:22 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_accordian
am I seeing things or did comptech lose you 30 hp?
what are you talking about?
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Old August 1st, 2006, 11:22 PM   #4
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Torque is pretty low in my opinion it barely hovers around 200wtq its better then before but the A/F ration can be made a little leaner at mid range and kept more even, something around 12.0:1 the whole way through.
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Old August 1st, 2006, 11:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawk411
what are you talking about?
on his old dyno it says his peak power was 266 hp on the new comptech dyno it says peak power is 235 hp.
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Old August 1st, 2006, 11:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_accordian
on his old dyno it says his peak power was 266 hp on the new comptech dyno it says peak power is 235 hp.
notice the revs
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Old August 2nd, 2006, 06:17 AM   #7
 
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so for you, tuning with the fpr then hooking up the premapped unichip worked the best. i rememebr a discussion about this a while ago.
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Old August 2nd, 2006, 10:15 AM   #8
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have you done this on both dynojet machine? SAE corrected? can you explain more of the comptech graph? do you have a torque curve on it or just hp?
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Old August 2nd, 2006, 11:03 AM   #9
 
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so if he slapped on the unichip again..he's gonna get back 30whp???

wow at 4000rpms, the car only has <150whp??? so ct s/c adds bout 50whp over i/e/h/p???
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Old August 2nd, 2006, 11:34 AM   #10
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kleptodathief
so if he slapped on the unichip again..he's gonna get back 30whp???

wow at 4000rpms, the car only has <150whp??? so ct s/c adds bout 50whp over i/e/h/p???

i think he means he only took it off to tune teh fpr, then put it back on
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Old August 2nd, 2006, 11:38 AM   #11
 
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also on the first graph doesnt teh 266 come from the high 6k rpms which is also considered a spike or something like that. or is it legit
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Old August 2nd, 2006, 03:21 PM   #12
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all these new runs were without any type of engine management. All the tuning was done via FPR. the comptech dyno used is printed on the sheet. I duno wat DSR used for my old dyno.
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Old August 2nd, 2006, 03:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_d
i think he means he only took it off to tune teh fpr, then put it back on
no the unichip is gone for good. its never going back on the car. EVER
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Old August 2nd, 2006, 07:51 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by slowaccord
no the unichip is gone for good. its never going back on the car. EVER


lol, y u say it like that , bad experience
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Old August 2nd, 2006, 08:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eolife22
lol, y u say it like that , bad experience
yea ive written about it several times on here. too many experiences to list

Last edited by slowaccord; August 2nd, 2006 at 08:25 PM..
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Old August 2nd, 2006, 11:11 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by slowaccord
yea ive written about it several times on here. too many experiences to list

i feel u
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Old August 3rd, 2006, 12:52 AM   #17
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In his first dyno, anything pass 6250 is pretty much garbage data so that spike at the end doesn't count. As Comptech uses Dynodynamic dyno which usually scores lower than dynojet. Your torque is pretty low, I'm at 239 tq with pretty much the same mods.
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Old J30 Dyno result: 262.4whp & 244 wtq
New J30 Dyno result: 277.6whp & 254 wtq
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Old August 3rd, 2006, 12:55 AM   #18
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Your boost around redline is a lot higher than mine. I hit my peak boost around 3500 RPM and then it drops and slowly climbs again. You're running a bit leaner than I am too.
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Old J30 Dyno result: 262.4whp & 244 wtq
New J30 Dyno result: 277.6whp & 254 wtq

Last edited by BlackV62K2; August 3rd, 2006 at 12:57 AM..
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Old August 3rd, 2006, 06:09 AM   #19
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowaccord
yea ive written about it several times on here. too many experiences to list

what kind of engine managment are you gonna use now
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Old August 3rd, 2006, 09:51 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_d
what kind of engine managment are you gonna use now
none. im tired of spending money on this cars motor. i wanna get new wheels now and other stuff for looks. Maybe in the future i might try something new, but for now i dont wanna do nothing else to the engine
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Old August 4th, 2006, 04:04 AM   #21
 
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i think u need a better tune.... its running pretty rich
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Old August 5th, 2006, 01:35 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reccakun08
i think u need a better tune.... its running pretty rich
Rich? I'm seeing "lean"... in "boost" with "load" I'm thinking between 11.5 -12.0 f/a is a good mark to stay in.
I'm wondering if "slowaccord" was about to detonate when the f/a dropped to 10.4? Hard to say... there's no "gear" but probably mid/top of D3 with torque converter locked?

Slowaccord, sorry to read your frustration in tuning, but your performance is pretty damn impressive anyhow. Thanks for the posts!

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Old August 5th, 2006, 04:26 PM   #23
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The higher the #, the leaner the a/f. For example 13:1 is leaner then 11:1..You should run the highest octane available for your car and then you need to lean it out about another 1/2 turn. The higher octane will help to keep you from detonating up by redline and the 1/2 turn will bring your a/f up in the mid range. Your a/f has way to much variation. Look at Blackv62k2 graph. Hes getting max power in the 12.5 range. Last time I dynoed my car, the a/f (measured at the tailpipe) started at 11.8 and went to 12.6 at redline. Ideally, you would keep your a/f from ever dipping down below the 11.0 marker.
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Old August 5th, 2006, 09:22 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumpy
The higher the #, the leaner the a/f. For example 13:1 is leaner then 11:1..You should run the highest octane available for your car and then you need to lean it out about another 1/2 turn. The higher octane will help to keep you from detonating up by redline and the 1/2 turn will bring your a/f up in the mid range. Your a/f has way to much variation. Look at Blackv62k2 graph. Hes getting max power in the 12.5 range. Last time I dynoed my car, the a/f (measured at the tailpipe) started at 11.8 and went to 12.6 at redline. Ideally, you would keep your a/f from ever dipping down below the 11.0 marker.
hmmmmmmmm i was told my car was hitting 14:1 a/f ratio up top so he had to add more fuel via the FPR. I did notice that my car felt a little quicker and i verifed that when i made an 85-115mph run against my brothers camaro SS. Even though he won, he took me by a little more than a car length. Before the tune he would win an easy 2 car lengths and still be pulling. half the reason i lose is because his auto shifts down to second and im stuck in 3rd gear. and having a ram air LS1 doesnt hurt either

edit: i was so anxious to get my car back on the road i didn't even ask if the results are corrected or not.

Last edited by slowaccord; August 5th, 2006 at 09:26 PM..
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Old August 6th, 2006, 02:35 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumpy
The higher the #, the leaner the a/f. For example 13:1 is leaner then 11:1..You should run the highest octane available for your car and then you need to lean it out about another 1/2 turn. The higher octane will help to keep you from detonating up by redline and the 1/2 turn will bring your a/f up in the mid range. Your a/f has way to much variation. Look at Blackv62k2 graph. Hes getting max power in the 12.5 range. Last time I dynoed my car, the a/f (measured at the tailpipe) started at 11.8 and went to 12.6 at redline. Ideally, you would keep your a/f from ever dipping down below the 11.0 marker.
Trying to keep the mids in 11s will lean out the already lean top-end. This is of course with just FPR tuning. I know this can be done with Emanage. I would like my mid to lean out some more but I don't wanna risk leaning out the top.
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Old J30 Dyno result: 262.4whp & 244 wtq
New J30 Dyno result: 277.6whp & 254 wtq
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Old August 6th, 2006, 09:24 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumpy
The higher the #, the leaner the a/f. For example 13:1 is leaner then 11:1..You should run the highest octane available for your car and then you need to lean it out about another 1/2 turn. The higher octane will help to keep you from detonating up by redline and the 1/2 turn will bring your a/f up in the mid range. Your a/f has way to much variation. Look at Blackv62k2 graph. Hes getting max power in the 12.5 range. Last time I dynoed my car, the a/f (measured at the tailpipe) started at 11.8 and went to 12.6 at redline. Ideally, you would keep your a/f from ever dipping down below the 11.0 marker.
Ha! Hence the a/f (air to fuel) ratio. I stand corrected and stupid!
It's been a very long time since my last Dyno run, and back then... a/f ratio was everything.
I'd also like to ask... why do you measure from the tailpipe? Is it not better to take the reading before the cat?
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Old August 7th, 2006, 11:29 AM   #27
 
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What? you dont make any sense.
Anyways his car is def running rich after ~3.5 and pretty lean before 3. For boosted cars you want to stay around ~11.5-12ish. With a better tune u can definately squeeze more power and have better gas mileage.
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Old August 7th, 2006, 12:43 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reccakun08
What? you dont make any sense.
Anyways his car is def running rich after ~3.5 and pretty lean before 3. For boosted cars you want to stay around ~11.5-12ish. With a better tune u can definately squeeze more power and have better gas mileage.
That's the problem with us SC guys tuning just with the FPR. We're lean down low and up high but quite rich in the mids.
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Old J30 Dyno result: 262.4whp & 244 wtq
New J30 Dyno result: 277.6whp & 254 wtq
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Old August 7th, 2006, 01:17 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackV62K2
That's the problem with us SC guys tuning just with the FPR. We're lean down low and up high but quite rich in the mids.
Yeah, tuning by those methods tune the whole powerband which is to say that if your low end is rich and your bogging you will lean it out but lean out the high end as well, and vis versa possibly. Thats why a piggy back ECU is great for tuning.
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Old August 7th, 2006, 07:46 PM   #30
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I'd also like to ask... why do you measure from the tailpipe? Is it not better to take the reading before the cat?[/QUOTE]


Im not sure, but I guess the cat cleans the air a little, so it must make a difference.
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