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Discussion Starter #1
My girlfriends car has been making weird noises. I finally lifted up the front of the car and noticed the front lower control arm bushing is cracking. Are they easy to replace or am I better off just replacing the whole lower control arm? If I should replace the whole lower control arm what manufacturer do you suggest I go with?
 

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Carpe Diem
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I debated the same exact thing as well. I decided just to replace the whole LCA. I bought Raybestos Professional Grade LCAs (5021060 & 5021059) for about $74 each on Rockauto.com.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How long have you had them in? Bushings still look good? I know I have had problems with buying some other manufactured parts from like O'reiley's and within a year the bushings were junk. I just don't want to go through with that on this. Want to get the best part for the lowest amount of money. LOL.

If I just went with the bushing does the old bushing need to be pressed out and new one pressed in? If so it would be pointless to do that when the whole control arm would have to come off anyways.

I debated the same exact thing as well. I decided just to replace the whole LCA. I bought Raybestos Professional Grade LCAs (5021060 & 5021059) for about $74 each on Rockauto.com.
 

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Carpe Diem
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How long have you had them in? Bushings still look good? I know I have had problems with buying some other manufactured parts from like O'reiley's and within a year the bushings were junk. I just don't want to go through with that on this. Want to get the best part for the lowest amount of money. LOL.
I just ordered mine a few days ago and they haven't arrived yet.

If I just went with the bushing does the old bushing need to be pressed out and new one pressed in? If so it would be pointless to do that when the whole control arm would have to come off anyways.
That is correct. This is why I just decided to replace the whole arm.
 

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I am thinking about doing the same, but you'll have to battle to take the main bolt where the compliance bushing is off. I tried to install a suspension stiffening arm one time and noticed that the entire bolt just turns with the bushing. So you'll most likely have to cut the bolt. Get some spare OEM bolts ready.
 

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J35 _ 5-Speed A/T
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I can tell you guys that from a 6th gen owners perspective on aftermarket suspension component replacements -- I would suggest OEM. You may get about half life on aftermarket vs OEM. Aftermarket dust boots seem to wear out quicker than OEM dust boots. Same with aftermarket bushings.

Maybe the 7th gen aftermarket support is better, but thats my 2 cents -- from a 6th gen owners perspective.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just did this. Yes you need a new bolt. That was not fun to get off. Also if you live where we live and your crap gets rusty you will need a new sway bar link too. Only way to get those off is bust them off. So to those that plan on doing this make sure you have the extra bolt and sway bar link with you other wise you will be screwed.

Im still not done just because I went and picked up a new sway bar link to have everything to get the job done. When I went to put the sway bar link on is when I noticed the parts store sold me the wrong one. Went back there to find out the right one I need they dont have in stock. Have to wait to finish the job tomorrow.
 

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I can tell you guys that from a 6th gen owners perspective on aftermarket suspension component replacements -- I would suggest OEM. You may get about half life on aftermarket vs OEM. Aftermarket dust boots seem to wear out quicker than OEM dust boots. Same with aftermarket bushings.

Agree with Wheeelman here. If possible, get OEM, even the nuts and bolts. But of course, it all depend on the budget.

bozos_si said:
.. Yes you need a new bolt. That was not fun to get off. Also if you live where we live and your crap gets rusty you will need a new sway bar link too. Only way to get those off is bust them off. So to those that plan on doing this make sure you have the extra bolt and sway bar link with you other wise you will be screwed.
Same with Bozo_si, when tackling the LCA, you're better off replacing the front sway bar links. Here I suggest going with OEM as well, but I know we're limited with time and money here.
 

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J30 Lovin'
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I've been wondering what that noise coming from the fgront of my car was, ill probably look into it today.
 

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I picked up a brand new Moog lower control arm and sway bar link. The seat bar link i like over the oem.
The Moog sway-bar links does look "beefier" compared to OEM, can't argue with that :up:
 

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Mr. Detail
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I picked up a brand new Moog lower control arm and sway bar link. The seat bar link i like over the oem.
Used Moog LCA bushings and end links when I did the TL-S front anti-roll bar. Combination of the LCA bushings and anti-roll bar really tightened up the front end.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The big bushing towards thee front of the car was shot. When i removed it i noticed the lower shock bushing was shot too. Picked up the Moog lower control arm for 50 bucks shipped on Amazon.
 

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If you have access to a press, you can replace the bushing without doing the whole LCA. That saves at least $100 or so in parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I bought a moog control arm and Moog sway bar link. Both parts together were under a hundred bucks total.


If you have access to a press, you can replace the bushing without doing the whole LCA. That saves at least $100 or so in parts.
 

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^ Moog aint that great. Raybesto has been proven to make better ball joints and pivots. Not saying moog sucks, just seems the name got hyped. Its like saying "ohh AC Delco, that the $hit !! " . Basically identical when pulled apart, and the metal they are made of.
 
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