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James
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1,094 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Some time ago, I happened across a video for the Weapon R I-Throttle controller being installed in an 8th gen Accord. Although the unit was not designed for use with the Accord, someone noticed that the plug was the same as the one in a harness Weapon R offered, so they tried it and it worked.

I did a ton of research on drive by wire controllers. There are many different brands, but each one does the same thing, with varying degrees of precision. For a brief period of time, Buddy Club had offered a controller designed for the 7th gen Accord. I searched high and low, across the entire country and eventually overseas (via my internet obviously) but I could not find a single remaining example of this now long discontinued product. In fact, I cannot find anyone who even has one installed.

My searching led me to a company I have a long history with. Apexi has provided me with a unique tuning ability on my Accord through their Neo Air Fuel Computer. So I called up my buddies there and they told me about their product, the Apexi Smart Accel Controller.



I was intrigued. One was sent out to me, with some wiring diagrams and a harness designed for an 8th generation Accord. I set to work; the first ever 7th gen implementation of this unit (that myself or Apexi knows of anyway).

The first problem is the location of the DBW plug. Unlike in the 8th gen accords, where the plug is simply above the gas pedal, in 7th gens it is in the engine bay, on the left side. Very far away from the driver.

I apologize for not taking pictures of the modification process to the harness. I was in the zone and didn't want to lose momentum. It entailed re-pinning and splicing and almost an hour of cross referencing and double checking. I didn't want to fry my ECU by sending power, signal or ground to the wrong point and I had 12 of them to re arrange.



This is how I plugged in the harness.

The box on my engine is the brain. I wrapped it in carbon fiber to make it more esthetically pleasing. The harness shown below is quite secure.



Using my strut tower bar, I tucked the wiring behind it and zip tied it.



After running the wire for the controller through the firewall, I made the final connections and secured the brain. You can see one of my 3 runs of 0 gauge tucked in there.



This is the tiny control module.



I was going to, and probably still will wire the controller to the panel that is dangling. Unfortunately all three slots are occupied at the moment with the fog light switch and my volt meter. The switch on the lower part of the center console is for the volt meter.



Without extending the harness, I was limited in my mounting options. I will extend it and eventually mount the controller somewhere near the shifter.

For now, this positioning will suffice. It is secure and allows me to see the unit while driving.



So far, no thrown codes or negative issues. Out of the 7 driving modes, I will most likely leave it in hi throttle the entire time. A nice bonus with the unit is that it can be turned off.

So what do you think?:up:
 

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8,737 Posts
make sure you do the reverse grounding. You don't want Hi when your backing up. lol
 

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James
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1,094 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
make sure you do the reverse grounding. You don't want Hi when your backing up. lol
Yes, I am going to do that tomorrow. It is pretty scary to blip the throttle and shoot backwards in reverse.

sounds like a lot of work lol any noticeable differences?
Major differences. I have heard people preach about how you need to "feel it" to believe it. That's true. You really have to drive the car with this thing and see the difference yourself. It makes it feel faster even though it isn't really. It may take a few tenths off or something just because it makes the tb open faster. But the most major difference is how hard it pulls around town.

All the rewiring would make my head hurt...
It is no doubt a lot of work. I think it was worth it though.
 

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^ it is a lot of work matt. I used to have one. and then it died..
 

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James
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Discussion Starter #8
Any chance this will work with the J30?
Also how much?
Seems like a lot of work.
It will work with the j30, in fact I know exactly what wires you need to modify to get it to work. It won't be cheap, I think these cost about 250 with the harness you need. BUT it is by far the single most noticeable mod I've ever done and I have everything.

^ it is a lot of work matt. I used to have one. and then it died..
no wait, the one you had was like some strange prototype from another company right? not knockin just sayin

and as far as the amount of work, yeah, it took me about 4 hours and thats after about a week of planning what had to be done. but thats 4 hours from the time i opened the box to the time I test drove it.
 

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Bobby Lane Racing
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5,679 Posts
It's PNP besides wiring in the reverse signal which you can take right off the tranny switch. What rewiring are you talking about at the ECU? My friends at apexi sent me one of these a while ago to play with and that's all I had to do.
 

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James
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1,094 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
It's PNP besides wiring in the reverse signal which you can take right off the tranny switch. What rewiring are you talking about at the ECU? My friends at apexi sent me one of these a while ago to play with and that's all I had to do.
I'm talking about the DBW harness. It is not PNP at all, they don't make a harness for 7th gens... only 8th gens and in order to make it work it required re-pinning. But instead of doing that I cut/spliced to not ruin the fragile connectors. Yes the plugs are the same, but if you do not re wire, it will not work. It can't... on the 08 harness, signal and power are reversed on the male side and power and ground are reversed on the female side...

plus the controller harness has to be extended. and anyway, this is far to complicated for it to ever be PNP... on the 8th gen yeah it takes 30 seconds. But if you got one to work on your accord... without changing the wires... this was all necessary?

Edit: I see where I said I didn't want to fry my ECU; I simply meant I didn't want to send some strange signal through the DBW computer and throw a code... I meant it in a more hypothetical way, this actually has nothing to do with ECU, my bad.
 

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My issue with the prototype was extending the wiring and running that bastard through the firing wall. I also hate having it always blocking my OBDII port. But that was it. The different was there until it died. lol

I wish the still made the buddy club one. That one was super easy
 

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James
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Discussion Starter #13
^^ They don't actually have them lol. I tried every site.

And this one doesn't take up the OBDII port :)
 

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Bobby Lane Racing
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I am a direct contact with APEX'i, they're actually a couple blocks from my shop. I used a PNP harness for a TL, which works for the 7th gen, because the TB, and DBW systems are identical.
 

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James
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Discussion Starter #15
I am a direct contact with APEX'i, they're actually a couple blocks from my shop. I used a PNP harness for a TL, which works for the 7th gen, because the TB, and DBW systems are identical.
The 09+ harness for the TL is the same as what the v6 accord? or both... That seems... why would Apexi tell me the only way to implement it would be through modification then
 

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I am a direct contact with APEX'i, they're actually a couple blocks from my shop. I used a PNP harness for a TL, which works for the 7th gen, because the TB, and DBW systems are identical.
What was your experience using it? Are you still using it?
 

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James
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1,094 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Maybe there is a difference between the V6 and 4cyl?


Sent from my iPhone 4.


Nope, according to my wiring diagrams, they are the same.



Reference voltage is power, obviously ground is ground and sensor output is Signal.
 

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James
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Discussion Starter #20
well whatever lol I still got it to work and I think its a very cool product.
 
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