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346hp/300tq @ 4psi
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
went to the track this weekend, and experienced some pretty nasty wheel hopping. it was so bad the center bin door and sunglass holder popped open all at once, lol

ya i know this is a givin for having a fairly powerful fwd car, but is there anyway i can tame it or better yet, completely eliminate it? on my second run, it was so violent my cel went on, till i got half way down the track.

ive read an old thread here that replacing the stock bushings with polyurathane ones do the trick. has anybody done this? or have any good ideas?
 

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I think what you're calling wheel hop is just wheel spin, and what you're calling the CEL is the TCS light. Get some slicks, and a stiffer rear suspension so less weight gets transferred back.
 

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346hp/300tq @ 4psi
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
deuzezwild said:
I think what you're calling wheel hop is just wheel spin, and what you're calling the CEL is the TCS light. Get some slicks, and a stiffer rear suspension so less weight gets transferred back.

trust me, i know the difference between wheel hop and spin. do you have a 6spd? cause i dont think you can get it with an auto. only happens when you dump the clutch while launching.

lol, i know the difference between my CEL light and TCS light.

__
\!/ <--TCS light and the CEL is a pic of an engine.
 

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Heh, okay, just checking. There are tons of people on here who don't know the difference. I also know what wheel hop is. I think stiffer motor mounts would help, along with stiffening up your rear suspension (with springs, not dampers or anti-roll bars).
 

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1quick240
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sticky tires and suspension helped me. Also, try to feather the cluth and throttle more, dont just dump it. That will cure it.
 

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1quick240
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04accordcpe said:
went to the track this weekend, and experienced some pretty nasty wheel hopping. it was so bad the center bin door and sunglass holder popped open all at once, lol

ya i know this is a givin for having a fairly powerful fwd car, but is there anyway i can tame it or better yet, completely eliminate it? on my second run, it was so violent my cel went on, till i got half way down the track.

ive read an old thread here that replacing the stock bushings with polyurathane ones do the trick. has anybody done this? or have any good ideas?
lol...this happened to me also, but it looks like the lights get all 3d and stuff...lol
 

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i would also recommend you to take it easy on the clutch, dont dump too much power to the wheels at once.

if you have coilovers or konis, drop the front as much as you can, and raise the rear as much as you can. of course you'd want to change it back for the street.
 

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346hp/300tq @ 4psi
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
deuzezwild said:
Heh, okay, just checking. There are tons of people on here who don't know the difference. I also know what wheel hop is. I think stiffer motor mounts would help, along with stiffening up your rear suspension (with springs, not dampers or anti-roll bars).

ya, i think stiffening the motor mounts might be the best bet. i searched around and came across this website. http://www.raktron.com/misc/mt.htm

it seems like a pretty easy and cheap diy, but it was done on a 97 mitsubishi eclipse. i wonder if it will work for our cars?
 

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1quick240
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also this is what i believe you were refering too. 02av6 did it, and so did i using roofing poly urathane
 

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"Certified Hybrid Killer"
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i second the try-a-new-launch-method suggestion. Instead of a dump, try a clutch slip from 3-4k. Rougher on the clutch yes, but delivers power much more smoothly to the wheels. You could also try lowering tire pressures. A softer tire with more sidewall flex is generally better for controlling high power launches than full pressure is.
 

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346hp/300tq @ 4psi
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
SteVTEC said:
i second the try-a-new-launch-method suggestion. Instead of a dump, try a clutch slip from 3-4k. Rougher on the clutch yes, but delivers power much more smoothly to the wheels. You could also try lowering tire pressures. A softer tire with more sidewall flex is generally better for controlling high power launches than full pressure is.

thanx steve, ive tried feathering the clutch a few times, but seems like my 60' time really suffered using that method. its really hard doing that while trying to get a good reaction time.

what kind of psi do you think i should run without being to low? im on the stock size 215/50/17 right now.
 

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indoctidiscant
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hey talk to stoner, he has the best 60 ft time. i am a horrible launcher, because i dont want my car to ever suffer pain.

ive only taken her to the track once, and wont unless i get more mods done to it.

my last 3 runs experienced so much wheel hop, my wipers and blinkers went on automatically.. :eek:

but what deuzeswild said, get stiffer rear springs, however be prepared to have HORRIBLE snap oversteer with it.

try launching smoother, my best launches always come from letting the clutch out at 1500 rpm, letting the car "shoot' fwd and after that is throttle control.

btw the CEL is most probably from you banging up against the rev limiter/overloading the engine (if your TCS light was on). my last run (6th) of the day caused the CEL to go on.
 

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indoctidiscant
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04accordcpe said:
thanx steve, ive tried feathering the clutch a few times, but seems like my 60' time really suffered using that method. its really hard doing that while trying to get a good reaction time.

what kind of psi do you think i should run without being to low? im on the stock size 215/50/17 right now.
unless you are racing for points, reaction time don mean nuttin...
 

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OwAce: said:
but what deuzeswild said, get stiffer rear springs, however be prepared to have HORRIBLE snap oversteer with it.
Unfortunately, I've experienced this a few times. How can you reduce it?
 

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Adventure is out there!
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deuzezwild said:
I think what you're calling wheel hop is just wheel spin, and what you're calling the CEL is the TCS light. Get some slicks, and a stiffer rear suspension so less weight gets transferred back.

no im pretty sure he's right because its happen to me tooo.
 

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APOLLON said:
Unfortunately, I've experienced this a few times. How can you reduce it?
Snap oversteer? What the hell were you doing to get that? You'd need a SERIOUSLY stiff rear and get all the way off the throttle mid corner to get any real oversteer. And even then, it shouldn't be more than gentle. Our car will push no matter what you do to it. If you're REALLY getting oversteer, the most possible problem I can think of is that your front sway end link is broken, or you have 400lbs in the trunk.
 

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indoctidiscant
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deuzezwild said:
Snap oversteer? What the hell were you doing to get that? You'd need a SERIOUSLY stiff rear and get all the way off the throttle mid corner to get any real oversteer. And even then, it shouldn't be more than gentle. Our car will push no matter what you do to it. If you're REALLY getting oversteer, the most possible problem I can think of is that your front sway end link is broken, or you have 400lbs in the trunk.
X2. what is your suspension setup? this is what causes snap oversteer

sudden transfer of weight to the front of the car which reduces grip on the rear of the car causing the rear to swing around on you.

it has happened to me 3 times now. twice with the d2s. and once today, but the today experience turned into a controlled drift.

please give me descriptions of how it happened. along with full details of your suspension.
 

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1quick240
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OwAce said:
X2. what is your suspension setup? this is what causes snap oversteer

sudden transfer of weight to the front of the car which reduces grip on the rear of the car causing the rear to swing around on you.

it has happened to me 3 times now. twice with the d2s. and once today, but the today experience turned into a controlled drift.

please give me descriptions of how it happened. along with full details of your suspension.
....this is what I am afraid of...
 

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J33 w/TL LSD 6 Speed
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I have yet to push my accord hard enough to induce snap oversteer, the way that people seem to get it on the 7th gens is with TOO stiff a rear sway bar, EG 22m Comptech/Progress, coupled with a very stiff rear shock/strut setup or coilover. I have tein ss set right on the middle in the rear of my coupe and a 20mm TL type S rear sway, I've pushed the car fairly hard without breaking the rear loose, or even making it feel shaky...too much stiffness in the back of this car will cause snap oversteer, if your ok with the ride being a little softer, then take the route I did...the Teins are softer than d2s and the 20mm tl bar is a bit more flexible than the progress and comptech units. ...Honestly I think this setup for my rear is just right for daily driving and occasional track/street slaloms. I could go full stiff and Im sure it'd get into the snap oversteer realm, but then id loose that ideal balance that I seem to have now.
 
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