[02161987beh]

I brought an 04 with an blown motor, I'm looking for a quick fix and sale. I have an j30a1 available at little to no cost could I drop this motor in? With no issues???

 

[ikethegreat]

No

 

[thisaznboi88]

No get a tsx or element motor instead

 

[02161987beh]

Ok great thanks

 

[accord325]

No get a tsx or element motor instead

I'm confused, he's asking about a J30 swap, post in a 4cyl section, and your telling him to get a TSX or Element engine.

J30a1 will not work due to it being drive by cable and other no compatible elements, and the J30a4 is drive by wire

 

[bozos_si]

J30A4'S you can pick up a dime a dozen. At least around here you can.

 

[thisaznboi88]

I'm confused, he's asking about a J30 swap, post in a 4cyl section, and your telling him to get a TSX or Element engine.

J30a1 will not work due to it being drive by cable and other no compatible elements, and the J30a4 is drive by wire

sorry it should have been in red. lol Cuz it posted in the 4 banger section.

 

[steve4748]

Ummm? You can use a j30a1 in place of a blown j30a4 as long as the intake from the a4 is used with the a1 motor. that way to retain the dbw. In the op case where he had the a1 on hand, it would have been a cheap simple block swap and he would have been just fine. Also id like to add, even if it were a k24 7th gen, the swap for k24 to j30 isnt too hard either, as the mounts are the same between the two, and stand alone wiring harness and ecu are available for j series in any chassis.

 

[thisaznboi88]

No it’s not stop giving bad info. It is a totally different motor. It’s more than just the drive by wire issue

 

[steve4748]

There are no differences between the two that make an a1 block no useable in a 7gen. Do you know anything about j sieries difference or are you talking out your ass? The dbw is not an issue if he keeps his pedals, intake and sensors that came in his 7th gen. Coil on plug difference? Doesnt matter hed be keeping his stock harness ecu and using a4 coils..exhaust differences, the a4 had integrated manifolds to the head if not run cheap ebay exhaust for the a1 then he couldda swapped his a4 heads onto the a1 purley to retain his stock exhaust system, which would come with new head gaskets and chance to look into the motor..im not spreading bad info, dont be one of those guys; "its not possible buy new car"the a1 motor can def be used in a 7gen dont belive me grab a wrench son

 

[thisaznboi88]

There are no differences between the two that make an a1 block no useable in a 7gen. Do you know anything about j sieries difference or are you talking out your ass? The dbw is not an issue if he keeps his pedals, intake and sensors that came in his 7th gen. Coil on plug difference? Doesnt matter hed be keeping his stock harness ecu and using a4 coils..exhaust differences, the a4 had integrated manifolds to the head if not run cheap ebay exhaust for the a1 then he couldda swapped his a4 heads onto the a1 purley to retain his stock exhaust system, which would come with new head gaskets and chance to look into the motor..im not spreading bad info, dont be one of those guys; "its not possible buy new car"the a1 motor can def be used in a 7gen dont belive me grab a wrench son

your a dumb ass. read my thread.

http://www.v6performance.net/forums...tor-combination-mt-transmission-*sticky*.html

a j30a1 came out of a gen 6 accord. it has 3 port headers, camshaft are different and so it the crack sensor, it also doesn't have a knock sensor, crappy compression, and etc. please STFU and stop posting wrong info. I have tons of people that can actually vouch for my info.

Also why would you want to run a cripple ass motor like the j30a1. If anything get a j37a4

also your grab a wrench comment is stupid. Look at my sig, and how many stickies I have created for this forum. Took you almost 5 month just to reply to this thread. lol

 

[WHEEELMAN]

..... it also doesn't have a knock sensor,

I was thinking this was the deal breaker on using the J30A1 block.
The 7th gen ECU is going to be looking for it and if the J30A1 does not have one...then???


Aren't the engine mounts/location on the J30A1 block different also?

 

[steve4748]

Picture your a4 blown up and you have 0$ and no money coming, but you have a complete a1 block laying in your garage.. with a need for transportation reguardless of wether you like its power output or not, you cant honestly tell me you wouldnt do a blockswap. I mean maybe not somewhere where emissions or CEL matter, but here in the backwoods in FL us boys dgaf. The a4 heads should bolt onto the a1 block so no more crap cams or 3p head. Knock sensor will throw cel, but its not 100% necessary my wife's currently driving a j35 vue with malfunctioning Knock sensor and no appearent power loss suv runs great. If its that big of a deal tap threads into the block and wire knock sensor to the correct ecu pin. The mounts are easy to figure out as the a1 lower trans mounts should bolt to our 7gen subframe and on the a1 block you could use your a4 timing covers and engine mount bracket, and the a4 engine mount. I apologize for telling you to pick up a wrench, imo i really wouldnt say, "100% NO its not possible and will never happen" when it really could be done. Maybe not favourably or to your satisfaction but i bet an a1 motor could move a 7gen just fine in a pinch

 

[WHEEELMAN]

...The a4 heads should bolt onto the a1 block

They will, its been confirmed by NVA-AV6. Minor detail is a oil passage in the J30A4 head will need to be plugged up.


http://www.v6performance.net/forums/6g-honda-accord-performance-discussion/102646-6th-gen-love.html

Post #19

Knock sensor will throw cel, but its not 100% necessary my wife's currently driving a j35 vue with malfunctioning Knock sensor and no appearent power loss suv runs great. If its that big of a deal tap threads into the block and wire knock sensor to the correct ecu pin.

Interesting. Would like to see how that would work out.

The mounts are easy to figure out as the a1 lower trans mounts should bolt to our 7gen subframe and on the a1 block you could use your a4 timing covers and engine mount bracket, and the a4 engine mount.

Have you compared the blocks to see if those mountings points are identical?

 

[steve4748]

Good point about the oil passage, this is the type of info the OP was originally looking for. Now were making a good thread lol. Anywho, ive added and seen people add knock sensors in older d sieries swaps its 100% doable, and yes i have compared the engine mount bracket bolt holes and all three bolts line up between the two blocks, meaning you could use either block a1 or a4 in either chasis granted you use the engine mount and engine mount bracket from the chassis your using. So a1 motor in 7th gen would require the a4 engine mount bracket and engine mount. As for the tranny he could keep his stock tranny and not have to mess with his tranny mounts

 

[WHEEELMAN]

Good point about the oil passage, this is the type of info the OP was originally looking for. Now were making a good thread lol. Anywho, ive added and seen people add knock sensors in older d sieries swaps its 100% doable, and yes i have compared the engine mount bracket bolt holes and all three bolts line up between the two blocks, meaning you could use either block a1 or a4 in either chasis granted you use the engine mount and engine mount bracket from the chassis your using. So a1 motor in 7th gen would require the a4 engine mount bracket and engine mount. As for the tranny he could keep his stock tranny and not have to mess with his tranny mounts

Welp, there ya go. If your in a pinch, it could be possible to use the J30A1 block mated to the J30A4 heads in a 7th gen.




I say could because we would really need to verify the knock sensor modification would work by actually doing it. The 7th gen ECU may not like a knock sensor in a J30A1 block...you just never know.

 

[steve4748]

well fortunately the Knock sensor is not prejudice as to what block its being screwed into lol. and the ECU could ONLY MAYBE malfunction if the knock sensor were not tapped and installed into the right location in the engine, in which possibly it could hear some phantom knocks. IDK really about them malfunctioning after being added into a block, as theres not usually any issues, its very straight forward.

heres a link i found about adding a knock sensor to a b18b if anyone has questions, its a pretty interesting read
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/add-knock-sensor-b18b-661362/

 

[WHEEELMAN]

Well, that application you linked to is specific to a Stand Alone ECU.

Now, if you had an example where someone added a knock sensor using a OEM ECU for our example in this thread, then we would be getting somewhere.

 

[steve4748]

Quote from the lsvtec build thread, its towards the bottom of the thread..
"Knock Sensor Info for LS VTEC:


This is how I did it (I know it works for a B18A, and if the coolant plug for the B18B is in the same place, exhaust side of the motor behind the manifold, it will work fine).
You will need:
1 knock sensor
wire to run from sensor to ECU (18 gauge I think)
JB weld
access to a machine shop or a drill press
a 12mm tap (I believe that the knock sensor threads are 12mm)
heat shielding for the wire
I reccomend an extra coolant plug for your motor so you don't have to remove yours (so you can drive the car before you get the knock sensor in)

Drill a hole in your coolant plug that is the correct size for tapping a 12mm thread. The hardware store where you bought the tap can tell you the size, if I remember I will post it.

Tap the hole with 12mm thread, be sure to use lots of oil on the tap.

Thread the knock sensor into the coolant plug tight enough that when you get it in you car it won't rattle out.

Sand the motor side of the coolant plug then fill the motor side of the coolant plug (it is hollow) with JB Weld and let it sit until the JB Weld has completely cured (usually overnight)

After the JB Weld has cured remove the knock sensor from the coolant plug.

Drain the coolant out of your car and remove the coolant plug from the exhaust side of the motor. (This will probably release more coolant)

Install your modified coolant plug in the motor and make sure it is torqued.

Thread your knock sensor into the coolant plug, make sure you only tighten it as tight as it was last night, you don't want to pop the JB Weld out into the collant passages.

Run the wire from the sensor to the ECU after installing the heat shielding over the wire that is close to the exhaust.

Note: I am not in any way responsible if this does not work for you or something goes wrong during or after the install.

EDIT: Do this iff (if and only if) you cannot tap the blank on the back of the motor. Mine is in this location because it is easier to change sensors if you get a bad one (my B16 came with a bad one)"


LS-VTEC/CR- VTEC Info | HondaSwap

and heres some more;
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/need-add-knock-sensor-1345465/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/adding-knock-sensor-b18b-143163/

and I am aware that none of the posts include actual pics bnut trust me, Knock sensors can easily be added to a block. when i get the time and money ill make a writeup on adding KS to a motor and oem ecu.

 

[steve4748]

not that i reccoment JB weld lmao, KS can be tapped into the block, ive seen and heard people using all kinds of areas for KS mounting locations. from back of block to everywhere like alternator brackets..