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enjoying j36 luv
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Discussion Starter #1
whats the diff with the tl sway bar with the accord and what about an after market one i dont hear anyone talking about after market its just the tl now both have to be changed or just the rear or front talk to me people
 

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The TL-S sway bars can be had froma dealer for usualy $150 or less for the set with bushings, the aftermarket bars are much more expensive than that. Performance wise, there really is not much difference between the TL-S bars and the aftermarket ones.
 

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enjoying j36 luv
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793 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The TL-S sway bars can be had froma dealer for usualy $150 or less for the set with bushings, the aftermarket bars are much more expensive than that. Performance wise, there really is not much difference between the TL-S bars and the aftermarket ones.

ok that makes sense but how is it better then stock accord ones ?? and front and rear need to be changed
 

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Differences - oh and this has been discuused many times in different threads on here.

Front AV6- Made from a hollow tube.
Front TL-S- Solid bar = stronger, less sway :)

Rear AV6- I believe it is 15MM Diamemter
Rear TL-S- I believe it is 19MM Diameter, again stronger less sway

Replacing both creates a better match, some people only use the rear TL (NON-S) sway which I beleive is 17MM in diameter which many reports fixes alot of the oversteer issues and some have reported only replacing the rear with the TL-S will create understeer issues in the front, I use both front and rear TL-S bars and my car stays almost perfectly flat in high speed cornering..
 

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enjoying j36 luv
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793 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Differences - oh and this has been discuused many times in different threads on here.

Front AV6- Made from a hollow tube.
Front TL-S- Solid bar.
oh and did knoe i looked but coulded find it but thanks and the rear needs to be changed or it can stay
 

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Differences - oh and this has been discuused many times in different threads on here.

Front AV6- Made from a hollow tube.
Front TL-S- Solid bar = stronger, less sway :)

Rear AV6- I believe it is 15MM Diamemter
Rear TL-S- I believe it is 19MM Diameter, again stronger less sway

Replacing both creates a better match, some people only use the rear TL (NON-S) sway which I beleive is 17MM in diameter which many reports fixes alot of the oversteer issues and some have reported only replacing the rear with the TL-S will create understeer issues in the front, I use both front and rear TL-S bars and my car stays almost perfectly flat in high speed cornering..
I'm one of those with the TL rear
sway only. My experience is that it
flattened lean angles and it actually
balanced the handling at adhesion limits.
Less understeer but with the possibility
for snap oversteer if I abruptly lift
mid corner. Especially in the rain.
 

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enjoying j36 luv
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793 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
so im going to have to look for the front and rear from the tl-s for the best am i right
 

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DIY Mania
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I'm the minority here but IMO you only need to upgrade the rear swaybar. I have the TL 6MT rear swaybar (20 mm) and I'm happy with it. I feel that 22 mm would be much better though, but I don't want to spend any money for this.

These cars have pretty excessive understeer in stock form. If you upgrade both the front and rear, you only increase roll stiffness front and rear but won't really fix the understeering issue.

If you want the car to feel more neutral or less understeer in turns, upgrade the rear ONLY. The rear tires will break traction sooner with increased roll stiffness and the car will rotate slightly in turn if you lift the throttle -> less understeer.

So stillloco, IMO, upgrade the rear swaybar only to the 17 or 20 mm TL bar.

"Totally flat at corners" can mean that the suspension is fully compressed, not because of the thick swaybars. Of course if the suspension has nowhere else to go, the car will feel like it carves corners like it's on rails. But one bump midcorner and you snap into oversteer and upset the chassis.
 

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I'm the minority here but IMO you only need to upgrade the rear swaybar. I have the TL 6MT rear swaybar (20 mm) and I'm happy with it. I feel that 22 mm would be much better though, but I don't want to spend any money for this.

These cars have pretty excessive understeer in stock form. If you upgrade both the front and rear, you only increase roll stiffness front and rear but won't really fix the understeering issue.

If you want the car to feel more neutral or less understeer in turns, upgrade the rear ONLY. The rear tires will break traction sooner with increased roll stiffness and the car will rotate slightly in turn if you lift the throttle -> less understeer.

So stillloco, IMO, upgrade the rear swaybar only to the 17 or 20 mm TL bar.

"Totally flat at corners" can mean that the suspension is fully compressed, not because of the thick swaybars. Of course if the suspension has nowhere else to go, the car will feel like it carves corners like it's on rails. But one bump midcorner and you snap into oversteer and upset the chassis.
Exactly. :)
 
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