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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i know i have searched but, i do not have time right now to search because i am fixing to buy the cams now from a guy on the site but it is only the cams...........he told me all i need is the cams and i am not doubting him i just wanna make sure that what he said is all i really need he said a guy named toby told him all he needed was just the cams until the car got in the 100k mile range.................now i am not meaning to doubt what he is telling me but in all the other forums i read there was more things than just the camms that people were buying...........thanks :D
 

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all you need is the cams, i suggest a valve job in the process, and as far as the 100k mile thing, actually i think its like 105 or 110 for teh v6s, thats when you would want to change the timing belt and water pump, thats the right pump right? i think so, basically you only have to do the cams with nothing else if you dont have that much cash, but i would pay the extra however much for the valve work, as far as the timing bel, i wouldnt worry about that until around or right after 100k, unless you just have the money or have highmiles already


i know on mine i did it with the valve work only, but i wont have my car once the tranny waranty runs out. hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
mike_d said:
all you need is the cams, i suggest a valve job in the process, and as far as the 100k mile thing, actually i think its like 105 or 110 for teh v6s, thats when you would want to change the timing belt and water pump, thats the right pump right? i think so, basically you only have to do the cams with nothing else if you dont have that much cash, but i would pay the extra however much for the valve work, as far as the timing bel, i wouldnt worry about that until around or right after 100k, unless you just have the money or have highmiles already


i know on mine i did it with the valve work only, but i wont have my car once the tranny waranty runs out. hope that helps.

yes that is exactly what i wanted to here from somebody else, i am kinda gullible when people tell me something so i just wanted to check to make sure............thanks again
 

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J32A2 + SC + Meth AV6
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You need all the little parts too for the complete swap.

14100-PGE-A00 FR CAMSHAFT
14200-PGE-A00 RR CAMSHAFT
91213-P8A-A01 OIL SEAL x2
91301-P8A-A00 O-RING x2
12341-P8A-A00 HEAD COVER GASKET x2 (fixed part #)
17105-P8A-A01 INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET (Honda)
18715-PB2-000 GASKET, EGR VALVE
19504 DISTRIBUTOR O-RING GASKET ($1.43)
9396 THROTTLE BODY GASKET ($.65)
14540-P8A-A01 TIMING BELT TENSIONER TOOL (optional)

Btw, it tool a matter of a few minutes to find that info. Search next time ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
BlackV62K2 said:
You need all the little parts too for the complete swap.

14100-PGE-A00 FR CAMSHAFT
14200-PGE-A00 RR CAMSHAFT
91213-P8A-A01 OIL SEAL x2
91301-P8A-A00 O-RING x2
12341-P8A-A00 HEAD COVER GASKET x2 (fixed part #)
17105-P8A-A01 INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET (Honda)
18715-PB2-000 GASKET, EGR VALVE
19504 DISTRIBUTOR O-RING GASKET ($1.43)
9396 THROTTLE BODY GASKET ($.65)
14540-P8A-A01 TIMING BELT TENSIONER TOOL (optional)

Btw, it tool a matter of a few minutes to find that info. Search next time ;)
ok thanks for the info, i already thought i was going to need all that stuff but when i was told i did not it kinda through a curveball at me.............so i thought i would ask but next time i will search............thanks again :D
 

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oh yeah good point, i didnt even think about that, i got mine all ina package from drnknmonkey or however he spells it on here
 

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You'll will also need some sort of piggy back system to control your a/f mixture. I recommend a vafc2 from personal experience, but a regular vafc or uni chip will do the trick. Without the piggy back, your car will bog out, meaning to much fuel is being dumped into your motor. Other than that you should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
RedBaron said:
You'll will also need some sort of piggy back system to control your a/f mixture. I recommend a vafc2 from personal experience, but a regular vafc or uni chip will do the trick. Without the piggy back, your car will bog out, meaning to much fuel is being dumped into your motor. Other than that you should be good.

thanks for the info
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
kleptodathief said:
how much gains will cls cams give u?
supposely 9 hp and about 6 lb tq............... but after i have it tuned it is supposed to give more...................if you looked at my other thread last night i was debating on getting the cams or lowering my car on eibachs............but the eibachs did not fit when i went this morning because it was for a 4 cylinder so as soon as the guy pms me back i am going to snatch up the cls cams :D
 

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cl-s cam gains

the 9 hp and 6 trq are at the top end, most of the gains are at the low end, pre-vtec. I had mine dynoed before and after, at 3400 rpm +16 hp and +24 trq, where our cars really need some help.
 

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If you don't have that many miles on your car, you should be able to re-use all of the seals and gaskets. I only bought the cams but I also only had 13k on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
alt_brian said:
the 9 hp and 6 trq are at the top end, most of the gains are at the low end, pre-vtec. I had mine dynoed before and after, at 3400 rpm +16 hp and +24 trq, where our cars really need some help.

thanks now that is what i am wanting to here, that is horsepower and torque to the wheels right?
 

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i dont think it is that much... i could be wrong, i wil wait and see when i get my unichip, but i could tell a difference though
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
98exaccord said:
Is there a notice in tone difference from the cams? I am debating doing this for some more HP but unsure if it is any point sine the motor has 140,000.
i see you have my bikes twin........haha :D

good taste


also what do you mean in tone difference, like the way the engine sounds
 

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On stock engine (no aftermarket intake or headers) J32A2 camshaft going make engine sound different, it will sound throatier above 3500RPM
 
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