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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
difficulty level: 5 (scale of 10)
time required: 2-4hrs.
tools required:
- multimeter/multitester (optional, but HIGLY recommended)
- wire stripper
- crimper
- 10mm combination wrench
- pliers
- phillips screwdriver
- flathead screwdriver
hardware/materials required:
- (11) spdt(5pin) 12vdc relays
- (11) prewired relay socket (optional, but highly recommended
- (2) RED t-taps (makes life easy)
- (1) fuse tap
- (2) 2.5A diodes
- (1) switch (optional, but recommended)
- (1) inline fuse holder
- (1) 5A fuse
- (10ft) 16awg red primary wire
- (10ft) 18awg red primary wire
- (2ft) 18awg black primary wire
- (~20) insulated BLUE male connectors
- (~20) insulated BLUE female connectors
- (1) insulated RED female connector
- (~15) YELLOW or BLUE (depending on your relay harness) butt connectors
associated costs:
- $11 for (11) relays
-$14 (11) prewired interlocking relay sockets
- $2 for three 2.5A diodes, from Radio Shack
- $3 for inline fuse holder, from Pepboys
- $4 for a switch (optional), from Walmart
- $whatever for a 5A mini fuse, if you dont have extras laying around
- $whatever for connectors, if you dont already have them
- $whatever for wire, if you dont already have it
- $whatever for wire looms, if you want to use them (i did)


description:

have you ever noticed how chevy z06's, z28's, cobalts, and aveo's use their turn signal's 27w (high) filament for DRLs? Toyota likes to use high beams instead, run at 40%. Personally, i much prefer the look of brightly glowing amber. this DRL mod will allow you to have the same type of DRL that Chevy uses. the only difference your car will experience is that your 27w turn filament will on constantly on while your car is on, and your lights are off. when your parking lights or headlights come on, everything will act as normal. (see vid at bottom)

in addition, if you choose to install a switch like I did, you can go back to OEM mode at any time, and everything will function exactly like stock. also, if for any reason you wanted to remove the DRL from your car completely, this setup will allow you to do so in (probably) under 5 minutes, with no tools required.

this mod uses a fairly complex DRL module, which i designed over the course of several months. you need not understand how the module operates to perform this mod, all you need to be able to do is follow instructions, and be able to crimp. LOTS of crimping. if you WANT to learn how the module works, you'll need to first understand how relays work. if youre unfamiliar with them, here is a good explantion of what relays do, courtesty of howstuffworks.com.

the basic idea is this: a relay is a SWITCH, in essence. however, instead of your finger manually flipping the switch, an electrical circuit flips the switch.

if you know how to read circuits, and are familiar with relays, all you will need is the wiring diagram in step (6). if at this point you do not know how to crimp, I strongly advise you not to attempt this on your own.

the procedure below is by no means detailed. this is merely intended as a guide to those who are already comfortable working with cars, and understand the basics of electricity.

this mod was performed on a 2005 accord 4dr LX 5MT.


procedure:

(1) tap into the in-cabin fuse #30. It is for the A/C, and uses a fuse rated at 7.5amps. the reason for using this source as a switching source for the DRLs is that it only comes on when your key is in the "ON" position. DRLs will not engage until your key is in this position.

I used fuse taps for this purpose, which allowed me to make a clean tap, with minimal work. I bought these for a couple bucks at Pepboys.



Make sure you attach the fuse tap to that side of the fuse, so that when it it plugged back into the vertical slot, it is attached to the bottom prong. this is the "ground" end of the fuse, so that this wire is protected by the fuse. if you tap on the "hot" end, it will still work just fine, but the wire will not be fused. Use your red 18awg for this part.



(2) run the wire to a dash-mounted switch. then run the wire out of the cabin (remove the plug from the 1" firewall hole if you havent already done so for sound installations or whatnot) and out towards your battery. at this point, wire it to pin86 of R0. then run a black 18awg wire from pin85 of R0 to a ground point. I used the same ground point as the battery since it was close. i also mounted R0 to the bottom part of the battery cover.



(3) run a fused (5A) wire from the (+) battery terminal to pin30 of R0. leave 87a on R0 unused. crimp two red 2" lengths of 16awg wires onto pin87 (making a "Y"). crimp insulated male connectors onto the open ends of these two wires. these will feed power to each of the two sides.

once you are done with this step, you will probably want to remove the battery for better access to the driver's side bulb.


(4) cut appropriate lengths of power wire for each side of your car. (for the driver's side, I only needed about 2ft. to get from R0 to the turn bulb. for the passenger side, I needed quite a bit, maybe 7ft.) crimp insulated female connectors onto the R0 end of the wires, and crimp insulated male connectors to the opposite ends.


(5) remove the turn bulbs. remove the bulb from the socket, and set it aside so it doesnt break while you're playing around. cut away about 3" of the black wire loom so you have some room to work. you will see three wires, the black one is ground. cut the other two wires, about 1.5-2" away from the socket.

the red wire with black stripe is for the parking lights (LOW). you will notice that it uses the same color wire on both sides. crimp insulated female connectors onto the two wires on the SOCKET side, and male connectors onto the other side. you'll notice that, in this way, you can just plug it back together to go back to OEM.

snap on the RED t-tap onto the ground (the remaining black wire).


(6) wire up the DRL module for each side. hopefully you have the prewired, interlocking relay harnesses for this part, they will make your life much easier. follow the diagram below to figure out which wires to connect to where. below the diagram is a key for the relay. Please note that R1-R5 are needed for EACH side. R0, a "control" relay, is needed only once.

When you are done, you should notice that you will have 3 "inputs" and 3 "outputs" for each of your DRL modules: POWER in (hot), HIGH in, LOW in, and then POWER out (ground), HIGH out, LOW out.



Use female connectors for all the inputs. Use male connectors for HIGH out and LOW out. Use an insulated male connector (which corresponds to your RED t-tap from step 5) on the ground.

[Please note that I did not use a resistor yet (see R1). this is not crucial, but it will give you a hyperblinking effect while you are in DRL mode. however, while you are in OEM mode, everything will be just like OEM. once I find a 1/2ohm resistor that can handle 30W, i will install it. I actually havent found any good solutions yet, but i'll keep you guys posted.]


(7) Head back to your car, and smile, because it's all plug and play from here. snap the DRL module into the appropriate places (6 connectors for each), tuck the module whereever you see fit (or mount it somewhere convenient), plug your battery back in, and YOU.. ARE.. DONE.

if you wanna test first before sticking your battery back in, use some jumper cables to provide power to your car while your battery is still on the ground. make sure to connect the positive side first.



for comparison, here are parking lights on during the day:


and DRLs on during the day:


both images were taken at the same distance, focal length is the same, exposures are both at 1/1000s, aperture is f/3.5, iso is 100, and exposure bias is 0.0.



and here it is in action.

first, switch is off, i'm in OEM mode: lights are off, then blinkers. parking lights come on, then blinkers. lights off.

then, switch goes on, i'm in DRL mode: lights are off, then blinkers (notice the hyperblink). parking lights come on (notice it goes dimmer), then blinkers. lights off.

then, a little bonus. HIGH BEAM FLICKER! garage door comes down, high beams flick again as the door passes the camera.



any questions/comments/suggestions are warmly welcomed.
GOOD LUCK to all you DIYers out there!
 

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Very nice write-up about an interesting mod. Good job (as usual) on figuring it all out. :up2:

(Truthfully, I've come to expect no less than that from you.) ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
joedanger11 said:
coool. used more hardware than i would have assumed, though. i like the garage door opener too. good job
hahah yea, i ended up needing lots of little bits and pieces to make it come together as a clean package. you guys shouldnt be intimidated by it though, its not as complicated as it looks. the absolute worst part was figuring out the schematics (but that is already done for you!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
02AEMAccord said:
very nice write up, would it work for the 6th gen also, how would u do the garade door thing??
yes, this mod will work for any car with two separate filaments for parking/turn, even if they are in separate bulbs. this will work perfectly with your 6thgen, but make sure you find a fuse that comes on with IGN (a/c should also work in your car).

as for teh garage thing: http://www.v6performance.net/forums/showthread.php?t=63152
 

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i also nominate sumptinwong for v6p's electrical mod...haha damn yo, that diy writeup is sick...too bad i'm mad clueless when it comes to electrical stuff...wish i knew how to follow ur instructions.. :confused: i got lost at step 1 :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
sumptimwong said:
[Please note that I did not use a resistor yet (see R1). this is not crucial, but it will give you a hyperblinking effect while you are in DRL mode. however, while you are in OEM mode, everything will be just like OEM. once I find a 1/2ohm resistor that can handle 30W, i will install it. I actually havent found any good solutions yet, but i'll keep you guys posted.]
bought some 0.75ohm 50W resistors a while ago, finally tested it this weekend. works just as i has expected; cures teh hyperblink.

be careful to mount them in an open space, these suckers get pretty hot if u elave the blinkers on for over a minute. will post pics of what these resistors look like this weekend
 

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In DRL mode, the blinkers are at their brightest all the time? Won't this make the housing overly hot? I remember someone posted a while ago that this melted their housing. I want to perform a mod where the blinkers are DRL but in their brightest mode, however, I won't do this if possible damage can occur. Perhaps this is best done with LEDs. What's your experience with any heat issues?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
at constant 27w, the bulb makes the housing warm, but definitely not hot enough to melt anything. ive been running these DRLs for over a month now
 

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sumptimwong: said:
at constant 27w, the bulb makes the housing warm, but definitely not hot enough to melt anything. ive been running these DRLs for over a month now
OK, good to know. I thought the poster in the other thread was exaggerating; 27W is not so great that it would be cause for concern. In any case, it's a mod that I've been wanting to do for more than a year but looking at the DIY you provided, I think I won't do this myself. It seems daunting and I've done a lot of electrical work in cars the last 10+ years..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
People have recently been inquiring about purchasing this module pre-assembled, so here's a pic of what the wired-up modules look like, to get an idea for teh size.



They currently sit nestled in some looms under my headlights, no permanent mounting yet.
 
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