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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Please tell us more about how you hooked up your DRL. The low-beam circuit is comopletely independent from the high-beam circuit, at least on the gen7, so I don't know how that's even possible.

Which 5A fuse blew? Headlights, or Highbeams? Both? Or just one side? Did you buy the correct resistor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
I'm sorry, but I can't help you much with such little information.

It seems to me, however, that you accidentally crossed some wires that you weren't supposed to. It doesn't make any sense to me how turning on your highbeams will blow the fuse on your parking light circuit - they are completely independent, and do not touch at all, even after wiring the highbeam-DRL like I had described.

In any case, 87 remains unused. 87a is the one you want to use to send power to your highbeams.

Also, isn't it a PITA to use a switch for the power? You should follow my recommendation to tap the A/C fuse (slot 30) if you have the time/interest, although it will require one additional relay. In doing so, you do not need to touch any switches for your DRL to work properly. However, if you do choose to use a switch, you can "go back" to how your lights worked, OEM-style, at any time. See Steps 1 & 3 above; you'll need R0 in the following diagram:

 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Hey guys, it's been a while! Just wanted to provide a 1yr update for this DIY.

Everything still works perfectly just like it did on the first day, with the exception of one burnt bulb that I replaced yesterday. The blinker bulb (1157, amber) had a lifespan of two years, including one year of active DRL duty. FYI, it was the high wattage filament that blew, the low wattage one was still fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Sorry to bump this thread again, guys. I recently had to replace all 10 relays (5 on each side) for my modules because I neglected to ever weather seal them. If you want to build this module, I would highly recommend spending a little extra money to buy weather-sealed 5pin relays, I think they're $1.95 a piece instead of $1.50 a piece for the non-sealed ones.

Here's a link to the non-sealed (p/n 330-073):
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=330-073

Weather-sealed (p/n 330-079):
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=330-079

If you decide to go with the non-sealed, just wrap everything in a bag and zip-tie it up.

It's kind of funny how my setup lasted over a year before having any problems. I guess it just took one really good rainstorm to dampen the relays, and cause enough rust to freeze up the mechanical components inside. When I opened up the casings for the dead relays, red water oozed out, and the metal parts were coated with brown rust. So I guess the lesson is to always weather seal your electronics unless theyre inside the cabin ;D

Cheers,
Tim
 
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