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i<3 my P.O.S.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
first off you have to take the trim out carefully prying the top and bottom of it (there a total of 4 tab so becareful not to break them)

second you will turn it around and take out these 4 screw circle in red

use a flathead and loosen the LED

take a sharp object and pry the LED up i use a razor blade...

remove bulb from bulb holder here a before and after picture

now insert a LED bulb in there and wrap the negative side of the LED thaat is the shorter side(shorter side is on the left side of the picture)
 

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i<3 my P.O.S.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
now on the right side just bend it down towards you and trim the excess

Now install the resistor one side of the resistor goes to the positive side of the LED and the other side of the resistor you have to wrap it around the out side just like the negative side


And here is the finish product
 

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i<3 my P.O.S.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
there regular ebay BLUE LED there 5000mcd but in person the blue looks better it come out a deep blue resistor i don't know but it came with resistor that made it work with 12 volt......hey if you hae any info on how to do the door and window switch can you let me know trying to figure that out i tried to change the LED but they won't light up
 

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NightShift said:
why is a resistor needed if there was an LED in there previously?
Because the manufacturer used an LED w/ a different specs
 

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6MTV6-ACCORD said:
NightShift said:
why is a resistor needed if there was an LED in there previously?
Because the manufacturer used an LED w/ a different specs
Actually, the OE light is NOT an LED. They're called "mini lamps" or "micro lamps." The OE mini lamp operates at 12v, and typically around 35mA. LEDs operate between 1.5v-3.0v, and typically half the current of the mini lamps. That's why you need resistors with the LED.
 

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sumptimwong said:
Actually, the OE light is NOT an LED. They're called "mini lamps" or "micro lamps." The OE mini lamp operates at 12v, and typically around 35mA. LEDs operate between 1.5v-3.0v, and typically half the current of the mini lamps. That's why you need resistors with the LED.

Simple maybe dumb question, if you changed most of these little mini lamps to LED will there be less drain on the alternator? OR is it so minimal you won't even recognize it?
 

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i<3 my P.O.S.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
but i still can't figure out why my window switch doesn't lite up when i change it do i have to change out the factory resistor too?????
 

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bagbklyn said:
Simple maybe dumb question, if you changed most of these little mini lamps to LED will there be less drain on the alternator? OR is it so minimal you won't even recognize it?
Won't make a lick of a difference. Good effort, though ;D

04accordcoupe said:
but i still can't figure out why my window switch doesn't lite up when i change it do i have to change out the factory resistor too?????
Did you use a micro lamp or an LED? If you used an LED without a resistor (even for a split second), you likely killed the LED. If you have a resistor, but it doesnt light up at all, chances are you've got the wrong resistor. Unless you know exactly the voltage and current being supplied to that light, you will need a potentiometer (variable resistor, available from radio shack for really cheap), and a multimeter to test the circuit with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
the switch has a resistor in there already.but i don't know what the voltage supplied to the factory light is how do i test that????..and i am using blue LED if that make any difference ....and i have no electrical experiance and how do you use a multimeter to test it??
 

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if you cant find a digital multimeter to borrow, pick up the red one from walmart for $25. it's a very decent DMM, i've been using it for a few years now.

when you get it, skim over the manual, they will give you guidelines on how to properly use it.

to test voltage: plug in the OE micro bulb, supply power to the switch, and put the DMM's test leads on the two contacts of the micro bulb. (DMM in parallel with bulb)

to test current, unplug one side of the micro bulb, stick one test lead into the place where that one side of the bulb used to be, and stick the other test lead on the free end of the bulb. (DMM in series with bulb).
 

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Red led's can go from 1.8-2.2 or so V for them to draw 20mA, on a spec sheet it will be the Vf of a led. Green can take 2.2-2.8 ish... And blue 2.8-3.2, white the highest at 3.2-3.6 or so...

And the current the stock lamp was drawing isnt important, if theres 12v there, the led MUST have a resistor, unless theres allready one, and the chances that honda would put a useless resistor in there are slim... So if you want a green or white led, your going to want a 300-500ohm resistor in there... Go lower if you want extra brightness, higher if you want less. With a single led with its own resistor, the life you will get out of it will generally exceed that of your car, so putting 30mA or even 40 to a led is fine as long as you know your likely going to cut a good 70% of life off the led.... But even then you should expect 3-7 years out of a decent led driven at 40-50 mA...

E
 

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Oh, and resistors dont limit voltage in anyway... They limit current. a 500ohm resistor with no load on a 12v battery will read 12v after the resistor... But thats in a perfect world, it should be dam close though...

And if a led doesnt light up at ALL, theres likely something seriously wrong. Even with a 50k ohm resistor (a good 100x more resistance than should be used) even a white led will lite, but it will be very very dim... If your looking at a led with power on it, and nothing happens, reverse the voltage, or try a new led.. But only one out of 1,000 or so led's should be bad even with cheapo ebay leds... So dont expect to have a bad one right off the bat...

E
 
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