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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2004 Accord
Problem#1 Last week the key with the fob would not start the car and had to use the spare key to start the car.
problem #2 A few months ago the key fob quit locking the doors and the door panel switch stopped locking the doors too. The weird part is the door panel lock switch works if the key is in the on position.
Problem #3 The front passenger door lock hasn’t work for a few years.
Problem #4. Driver window would twitch up and down slightly when the window was up and would not always go down. And now doesn’t go down at all.
Any help would be great.
thank
 

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Mr. Detail
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1,197 Posts
Door locks probably need new actuators, two of mine are dead. Not sure about the issues with the window and no start condition.
 

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2004 Accord
Problem#1 Last week the key with the fob would not start the car and had to use the spare key to start the car.
problem #2 A few months ago the key fob quit locking the doors and the door panel switch stopped locking the doors too. The weird part is the door panel lock switch works if the key is in the on position.
Problem #3 The front passenger door lock hasn’t work for a few years.
Problem #4. Driver window would twitch up and down slightly when the window was up and would not always go down. And now doesn’t go down at all.
Any help would be great.
thank
Ok well this could be your problem the fob has a code that’s transmitted to the security of car called immobilizer it has transmitter next to your key ignition switch. If you have removed the power to the computer or the engine bay fuse box it may have erased the code. You can get a coder from walmart for 100. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve used it . It will erase keys and add keys. It’s most likely just needs to be reprogrammed. What’s nice about the programmer it works on most makes and models with onboard EcU. If its the fob then you can program it from from your ingition I believe i know up to 2002 you could. I had to deal with incompetent mechanics. Telling me I need new immobilizer system , new computer , and new engine bay fuse box. Well it was none of those it was a positive power cable running from my battery to the main fuse box. This caused my car to shot down at anytime while driving and no start just a green light flashing. The power cabinet was hanging by two copper threads. I had bought new battery clamps and was installing when I unwrapped the cable six months of head aches and flatbed tow truck rides. It’s funny but Honda doesn’t know how to fix old school. I had to buy the parts and deliver them since they weren’t available. My 98 Accord Coupe Ex 3.0
 
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