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Discussion Starter #1
have seen a lot of pros and cons to each but basically i want to know what way is cost effective way to sound deaden my car doors and trunk without regretting it by using the wrong material. I hear way too much road noise and wind so i want to dampen the noise. its not necessarily for the speakers but i may install some upgraded stereo later on so maybe the 2 can coincide. tips ?
 

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fatmat was a cheap alternative
 

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The Jester
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How dead do you want to go?

Most wind noise comes from the roof and pillars. Most road noise comes up through the floor and crevices in the doors. Most engine noise will make its way through the cowling just under the windshield.

If you want to sound deaden for speakers, it is a different process than to sound deaden for wind/road noise. Different materials, different amounts, different locations.

If you still have your factory wheel well liners, those are very resonant as they are so light and flexible. Luckily they already cover most of your wheel well and the area that makes noise upwards (and not through the floor).

Laying some fiberglass (the epoxy kind not the insulation kind) on them if you can keep them in form should help, and lets you have a more solid base to attach stuff to. Road/wind noise are pretty high frequency, which soft padding (like the loose fiber pads under your carpet) help to absorb somewhat, and usually for much cheaper.
Some open cell foams also do this.
Unfortunately I've never found a good source on either for cheap.

If you can find this, in an adhesive back type, then seal your door panels, and buy a bunch of it (like 40 sq ft) you can likely get the wheel well panels, the insides of the wheel wells on the interior, the doors, and more of the floor panels.

If you want to permanently (and honestly messily) and heavily deaden it, fatmat or knoknoise are best bang for buck, and significantly cheaper than dynomat, and better quality.

There are also underbody sprays that allow you(or a technician) to spray on the same stuff that dyno/fat/kno sheets use, to allow for a better coating of the underbody noise, however it is expensive.

To help better, it would help to know what tires you have, if you are okay changing tires, where the noises you are most aggravated about are coming from, what your budget is, what your time and experience are on the/general cars and interiors, what pitch or sound the noise sounds like (whoosh, rumbling, metallic, whistling, vibrating, low, high, sometimes, all the time) and where you really want to focus your attempts.

Honestly the only way to sound deaden a car is to fill every panel with expanding foam and put an inch of deadening on every panel exposed to the exterior, then weigh the panels down with a specific deadening panel. So its all about what exactly you want done, how far you want to take it, and the limitations of reason.
 

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if you want sound proofing you will need to do the foam pads.
 

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The Jester
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my guy at a shop is selling me 36 sq ft of dynamatfor 100 bucks. I'm going to put it inside the door panels and my trunk lid. will i notice a good difference? i was also told to spray 2 coats of this stuff for the wheel wells
Robot Check
That's actually a pretty good price on dynomat, but you didn't answer any of my questions to be able to help you so I can't give you any advice on where to put the stuff and how much and how to do it. (there are techniques and locations)

That seems like about the right stuff to do that with, just make sure you pull the liner out and actually spray the car. Tape some newspaper or bags or saran wrap around the components (spring, brakes, arms, path into engine bay) and focus on the area pointing at each seat, not the fenders and the section that actually goes toward the engine so much.

Something like this can do good too. But if you want real data out, you have to put data in. I'm not going to guess.
Robot Check
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was pressed into buying the dynomat but i didn't get the sound deadening effect that i wanted. what material is Dynomat is it a CCF ? I now know that to block wind noise and car noise from outside i must put mass loaded vinyl on top of the CCF such as that noico one you posted. my doors and trunk are covered in dynomat. can i put foam on top of it or do i have to rip the dynomat out
 

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The Jester
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You really can't remove dynomat.

Did you apply it with a roller? it needs to be airtight.

dynomat is butyl, covered by aluminum sheet. You can put ccf on it, but I don't see why you would.

Dynomat is not designed to eliminate those sounds, it is designed to reduce the resonance of a panel. Which is why I wanted more info in the posts above, to recommend the right materials, in the right order, with the right budget, in the right places, for you application.

But dynomat is cool too. Especially on the trunk and doors, where most sound actually doesn't come from.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yeah the sound quality of my stereo improved it feels almost studio like but i was going for the mercedes quiet effect where the wind noise inst as prevalent
 

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The Jester
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How dead do you want to go?

Most wind noise comes from the roof and pillars. Most road noise comes up through the floor and crevices in the doors. Most engine noise will make its way through the cowling just under the windshield.

If you want to sound deaden for speakers, it is a different process than to sound deaden for wind/road noise. Different materials, different amounts, different locations.

If you still have your factory wheel well liners, those are very resonant as they are so light and flexible. Luckily they already cover most of your wheel well and the area that makes noise upwards (and not through the floor).

Laying some fiberglass (the epoxy kind not the insulation kind) on them if you can keep them in form should help, and lets you have a more solid base to attach stuff to. Road/wind noise are pretty high frequency, which soft padding (like the loose fiber pads under your carpet) help to absorb somewhat, and usually for much cheaper.
Some open cell foams also do this.
Unfortunately I've never found a good source on either for cheap.

If you can find this, in an adhesive back type, then seal your door panels, and buy a bunch of it (like 40 sq ft) you can likely get the wheel well panels, the insides of the wheel wells on the interior, the doors, and more of the floor panels.

If you want to permanently (and honestly messily) and heavily deaden it, fatmat or knoknoise are best bang for buck, and significantly cheaper than dynomat, and better quality.

There are also underbody sprays that allow you(or a technician) to spray on the same stuff that dyno/fat/kno sheets use, to allow for a better coating of the underbody noise, however it is expensive.

To help better, it would help to know what tires you have, if you are okay changing tires, where the noises you are most aggravated about are coming from, what your budget is, what your time and experience are on the/general cars and interiors, what pitch or sound the noise sounds like (whoosh, rumbling, metallic, whistling, vibrating, low, high, sometimes, all the time) and where you really want to focus your attempts.

Honestly the only way to sound deaden a car is to fill every panel with expanding foam and put an inch of deadening on every panel exposed to the exterior, then weigh the panels down with a specific deadening panel. So its all about what exactly you want done, how far you want to take it, and the limitations of reason.
See above.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
my question is however what now ? i messed up and had the trunk and side doors dynamatted. where can i go from here to reduce wind noise. can i place some MLV over the dynamat ? should i avoid the trunks and doors and just place sound deadner in the hood/ under the seats?
 
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