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Calm like a bomb
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356 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I had my car in the body shop recently (nothing but headaches there) and they left my car out in the rain with the hood off. They have made just about everything right but I am still having an issue with my marker lights.

I had the headlights replaced (I put my original high/low beam bulbs back in) and nothing else "electrical" was done. I noticed after I picked her up that the lights didn't flash when I would lock or unlock the door. I did a little research and nothing was relevant to my issue. Key fob has fresh batteries, the doors would still lock/unlock and all the sensor contact areas were clean plus the horn would still sound. It wasn't until I was in my driveway a few days later I realized what was going on.

My headlights both high and low beams work fine as do my brake lights and front and rear turn signals but my marker lights were out. I checked the bulbs and they are good then I checked the fuse box and sure enough, fuse #4 was blown so I replaced it. It blew as soon as I checked it by hitting the key fob. I did a visual inspection and cleaned the contact points in the fuse block, blew another one. This never happened before I went to the body shop and I know that my bulbs are all good as they are the same bulbs as before the issue started.

I dropped it off this morning at a garage recommended by the body shop. After a few hours and a few questions I got a call saying he can't figure it out. I am at a loss here. According to the wiring diagram provided by Haynes there is a bunch of spaghetti and shady eyes lol











Seriously though, according to this diagram the markers and turns are all wired together. My turn signals all work but NONE of my markers work. Would a bad relay cause a fuse to blow? I thought they just wouldn't work at all but not blow a fuse? Any of you electrical wizards care to chime in? I'm sick of rolling like a dyslexic vampire!
 

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No wizard here, but the fuse is doing it's job as to not allow a short (more than like your issue) to smoke everything. I would start with the mark light wires by the headlight that you had them replace. Look for broken or burnt wires that making contact with something it shouldn't. If it was an overload condition( don't see how) then the fuse would at least hold until it gets hot. Also, check for corrosion on the bulb socket being that it was left in the rain. I just cleaned up some corrosion in the fuse to the ballast for my retro headlights and it was taped up and secured. GL man. Just pull the bumper and get out the headlights, should make it easier to work.
 

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The Jester
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1,352 Posts
Before trying to figure out your spaghetti I would check swapping out the taillight relay. It looks like that controls everything that goes on at night. Which would be what circuit is activated when you click your fob (i believe). There would be a separate circuit somewhere in another diagram to control brake/headlights/turn signals other than that fuse 4 linkage because according to that diagram if the "taillight relay" was closed it would power on all your signals, brake lights, and license plate light whenever opened with no individual control.

Relays go bad, especially when confused by shorts further down the system. Usually these systems are waterproofed to sustain water under the hood and not allow corrosion to occur to the point that it shorts, but if the water had fused the leg in the taillight relay it would get stuck whenever power is applied to it, or the signal and ground legs could be fused.

If that doesnt work, start working at all the spaghetti leading to the legs of the right side components on the diagram.
 

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Calm like a bomb
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356 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
UPDATE:



I picked my car up from the mechanic and god bless him, you could tell he was WAY over his head with this one. I popped the hood to see if anything was disturbed and noticed a blown 10a fuse in #4 :bonk:


I went to Autozone hoping maybe the bulbs were single filament types so I bought a new set of the right bulbs and a pack of 15a fuses and got to work doing a process of elimination. Changed the bulbs to the sylvanias and the fuse blew immediately. So I checked all the bulbs on that circuit and they are all in good working condition. Removed all the forward facing bulbs and powered the circuit, fuse remained in tact. Reinstalled the high beams, still in tact. Low beams, still in tact. Markers, blew immediately.


So now I'm thinking it might just be the relay. Because if I'm reading the schematic correctly the markers are on the high current circuit and directionals on the low current circuit. So, like a thermostat that fails in the open position I believe this is what I'm experiencing now. The low current allows the directionals to function with a low draw that won't blow the fuse but once the directional switch is rolled forward to turn on the lights it powers the relay causing the switch over and thus blowing out the fuse. I will be testing the relays continuity later with a multimeter and hopefully all will be good again.


I do have another puzzling concern though. After installing the Sylvania 1157ALL's I got hyper-flash on my directionals. Hazards are normal but the individual turns are hyper-flashing. What the hell?
 

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Calm like a bomb
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356 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Anybody have a pic of exactly where on the car this relay is located? Is it the combination switch or is it IN the under hood box or is it THE underhood box?
 

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Calm like a bomb
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356 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
It doesn't tell me the location. Just the diagram I posted above. Fairly certain it isn't a pullable relay in the under hood box. There is another relay on the side of the under hood box that I have NO IDEA where it connects to. I'm going to check the interior fuse panel to see if it is in there. It could also be in the multi-function switch or as a non-replaceable one inside the sealed part of the under hood fuse/relay box. I'm about to start testing them and I need to know which ones to pull. :gotme:
 

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The Jester
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1,352 Posts
Google, call honda, check location on older models. There's relays everywhere, underdash, under hood, passenger and driver footwells, anything in front of the drivers seat probably has a relay attached to it.
 

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Calm like a bomb
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356 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
This has gone beyond my scope. I exhausted google and Honda wouldn't tell me shizz, you know, for my own safety. Smh. I contacted an automotive electrics specialist and set an appointment for next week. I will let you know the results. Thanks for the input guys.
 

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Sorry man. I actually spent about 30mins search the Honda service manual for this location last night. I think the term marker lights actually was mentioned about 4x in the over 7000 pages. I remember a diagram showing how to test the combination switch and all it's functions. Let me know if you want me to post it up
 

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Calm like a bomb
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356 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Sorry man. I actually spent about 30mins search the Honda service manual for this location last night. I think the term marker lights actually was mentioned about 4x in the over 7000 pages. I remember a diagram showing how to test the combination switch and all it's functions. Let me know if you want me to post it up
If that isn't too much of a hassle that would be much appreciated.
 

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Calm like a bomb
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356 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Turned out to be the marker light assembly. Something in there was grounding out. I can drive at night again!
 

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Hi there,

I had the same issue. I noticed though that even if I don't install the HID headlight to its location but connect/wire it with the ballast, it blows the fuse as soon as I turn on the switch. But if I don't connect the wire of the HID bulb with the ballast and I turn on the switch, it doesn't blow the fuse. Would you think it's the ballast that I have an issue?

Thanks,

Jay
 

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Calm like a bomb
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356 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
The ballast striker could be shot. They create a very high voltage on initial start up to activate the gas, so to speak, and then regulate the voltage to keep the gas in the bulbs at a steady illumination. If you can try a different set of ballasts without having to shell out any $, try that first. You can also monitor the bulbs output w/o the ballast and if it seems regulated well enough, just run it that way. It will just take the bulbs a slightly longer time to reach their peak output, if at all.
 
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