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SIR Bound....Slowly
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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up some DC Sports header for my 5th gen EX and im reading through the intructions it came with and i look under the car and the hood and they are nothing alike.. the kit says i need to move my oxygen sensor but it doesnt come with the relocation harness and there is no bolt up for a o2 sensor on the new headers.. im thinking the o2 sensor is on the cat itself and all i gotta do is unbolt the header from the cat, and from the block and that should be it.. Can anyone verify this? sounds like this install shouldnt take more than 10 Min
 

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(つ◕‿◕)つ*•.★.•*•.★.•* •.★.•
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3,498 Posts
Headers will take about 45mins for a 4cyl. The O2 sensor is about 9 inches foward (towards the front of the car) from the cat. When you remove your header, you'll have to disconnect the wiring for the o2. If you have long arms, you can disconnect it from the top. That's all I remember from when I help my friend swap headers on his h22.
 

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SIR Bound....Slowly
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711 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
ok ive been under the car, almost got the header off but i didnt have socket long enough to unbolt the downpipe from the catpipe.. the o2 sensor is like you said about 9in from the cat but it turns out i am unbolting the pipe that connects right before the o2 sensor so i dont have to mess with the o2 sensor at all.. My only concern is getting the manifold out of their with the stock downpipe cause the bolts that connect the manifold to the downpipe are on the the bottom side and can not be reached so im hoping i can just jog the whole manifold/downpipe out of the engine bay while still bolted together..
 

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CG5
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346 Posts
-unplug the o2 sensor

-remove the heat shield

-carefully remove the cable that goest thru the hole of the heatshield

-undo the o2 sensor be carefull not to bang it

-use some wd40 to undo the bolts that hold the stock header

-undo the bolts (make sure you don't remove all the bolts from the headers ) that connect the header (oem) with the downpipe

-after you undo the downpipe/header section remove the remain bolts from the oem header (keep the gasket you will reuse it)

-remove the bracket that hold the o2 sensor cable

-go under the car and remove the remain bolts that connect the header and the cat

-bolt you header and plug the extension to the oxygen sensor at the end of the header (i think they come after the flex pipe, before the catback)

-some people compain about a weir sound after installing the header it just happened to be the cat converter heatshield ...bang it a lil' so the sound won't bother u

-that's it!
 

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SIR Bound....Slowly
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711 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
well.. thats what my instructions say that came with the headers lol.. But i dont have that setup.. Im having a very hard time doing this.. most of my bolts are completelty frozen (Would need a torch to take off) and ive broken 3 sockets lol.. the 10 min job i thought it was gonna be earlyer is now a 9 hour+ job lol.. stupid bolts
 

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Accord Mafia Member #001
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350 Posts
Its a 95, it has one 02 sensor, and its in the cat. You don't even need to mess with it. If you can't get it, find someone w/ air tools or take it to a muffler shop and see if they'll do it. It will have to come out in 2 pieces, its impossible to do it while still as 1 piece.
 

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SIR Bound....Slowly
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711 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Ok.. So this morning i went to home depot and rented a sawzall grinder and chopped the secondary pipe in half so i could pull out the old manifold.. After that the instalation went really smooth.. So now here's my new problem.. I started the car up..took it out for a test drive and when i accelerate the exhaust sounds like its going directly into a tin can instead of the stock exhaust.. I know everything is tightened up but this thing sounds terrible.. Anybody have any ideas on what could be the problem? if there is one?
 

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SIR Bound....Slowly
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Discussion Starter #8
ok.. went down to the muffler shop and it turned out to be a leak .. they put in a gasket and it runs great now
 

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CG5
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346 Posts
yep do it one and do it right sometimes exhauts parts get very tricky. Last week my exhaust gasket looked like a swiss cheese....make sure you get some gaskets handy in case something happen'
 

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It looks nice, btw, i had to do the same thing when i installed my headers in ages ago, it sucked but it seemed to be the only way to do it, like you said
 

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Banned
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87 Posts
I was looking at the same headers... but, which ones are better and why?

DC Sports Headers Brushed Stainless Header 4-2-1 Two Piece
OR
DC Sports Headers Ceramic Header 4-2-1 Two Piece
 

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SIR Bound....Slowly
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711 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I dont think one is better than the other. On the stainless steel header, a lot of people use those for show, but the flange on it rusts really bad and the stainless from what I hear heats up the engine bay a lot more . The ceramic I think is still a good look, keeps things cooler a little under the hood, and doesnt rust anywhere on it
 

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So how would it be a different amount of heat since the OEM looks the exact same? Isn't it stainless too? I'm weary about the ceramic cause of temp differences as far as weather goes and the possibility of cracking. I guess I'll go and get those SS Headers. Thx 4 the advise.

Thundagoose said:
I dont think one is better than the other. On the stainless steel header, a lot of people use those for show, but the flange on it rusts really bad and the stainless from what I hear heats up the engine bay a lot more . The ceramic I think is still a good look, keeps things cooler a little under the hood, and doesnt rust anywhere on it
 

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Headers will take about 45mins for a 4cyl. The O2 sensor is about 9 inches foward (towards the front of the car) from the cat. When you remove your header, you'll have to disconnect the wiring for the o2. If you have long arms, you can disconnect it from the top. That's all I remember from when I help my friend swap headers on his h22.

x3 :)
 
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