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J32/J35 swap

Hi guys this might off topic because most of the 6th gen Accord threads are dead but I was wondering. If the J32A2 heads would bolt on a J35A8 engine? Assuming they are the best flowing J series heads vs J35A8 heads and the J37A1/2/A4 heads.

One more question which upper intake manifold would provide the most air/power increase to the J series engine some choices I have found are P2R J Series Holley EFI Intake Plenum, P2R J Series Power Plenum, High Clearance Intake Manifold v2, J37 upper intake manifold conversion, Custom Dual throttle body conversion intake manifold. If anyone has any other suggestions for other intake manifold choices please say.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Yeah as for installing the clutch pedal and master, i was only able to install everything after removing the brake booster but with the booster out of the way theres plenty more room and the harness there can be a pain just pull the 10mm holding it to the wall and you can more easily move it to the side.
I would think the TL pedal would be the same as an accords, but i actually opted different route and got a more compact easier to work with Willwood clutch pedal off ebay for like 50$.
As for the ecu yes, it would actually be much cheaper to complete that portion of swap with an Accord v6 manaul ecu its just that they are much harder to come by with a matching ignition.
I did buy an accord v6 manual ecu from an 05 and my car is an 05. It didnt come with ignition and so i drove the car in limp mode to the dealer to have it flashed to the v5 manual ecu. Honda couldnt do it because to complete the flashing process itd ask the tech to push in the clutch, in which my car doesnt have the clutch safety switch so i don't believe the honda computer was able to complete the process...wierd..but anyhow i did eventually find an accord v6 manual ecu with matching ignition not too long ago. Swapped the ignition and ecu and good to go, no more check engine light no more codes for torque converter lockup.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
J37 twin turbo, yes the j32 heads itself will bolt up to the j35a8 block. As topiston to valve clearence when using j32 cams i have no idea? Something to look in to for sure. Also i like the j37 magnesium intake manifold personally as theyre noticably lighter. Heres a really good thread about j heads and different block combos

http://www.v6performance.net/forums...769-j-series-heads.html#/topics/242769?page=1
 

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Discussion Starter #24
another difference between the v6 6speed and the auto v6 that you may want to address, is that the v6 manual came with an intake manifold runner control on the intake manifold that the auto does not come with. if using an accord v6 manual ecu after conversion, it will throw a code for intake manifold runner control malfunction (high rpm). To fix, one could either buy an intake from ebay for the manual v6, theyre fairly cheap, and wiring in the imrc to the ecu, orrrr, flashpro has the ability to disable unwanted sensors. reguardless its more info that i wanted to share and forgot to mention.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Guys be sure to put the auto tranny in park before you start, and pull the selector sensor off the auto tranny leaving it connected to the auto harness. Ive had questions about this recently.. Use the auto harness, with the gear select sensor still plugged in, in the park position. So auto harness and a manual accord ecu... That or a tl ecu and flashpro..with that, and the two vss plugged in, everything will be good to go..
 

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Great write up Steve. Thanks! I need to replace my clutch on my 05 with 6MT and I want to swap in the Acura tranny with limited slip, but I can't find much in the way of advice on pulling the transaxle. Since I don't have a vehicle lift, I was thinking about taking it out the top rather than the bottom. I guess I'd have to pull the engine but I don't know if that's more or less work than dropping the cradle (sub frame). When I first read your description about pulling it out the wheel well I got excited, but then I realized you also had to drop the subframe (and exhaust and steering rack, etc...)

What else do I need in the way of tools? It looks like you used the tool to align the clutch plate. Was there anything else specific?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Honestly, pulling it out thru the wheelwell is a bit more tedious then lifting thru the top, but its entirely possible if you dont have access to an engine hoist. If you do have a hoist your easiest bet will be to pull from the top. If not then you can remove the all the stuff and pull from the bottom...it didnt require and special tools no, mainly a 10,12,14,17,19mm wrenches and sockets, and a good impact gun helps lol but a ratchet will do...only special tool really was the clutch alignment tool that came with the clutch kit
 

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Question - did you experience any loud squealing noises after you put everything back together? I just finished an engine swap on my 6-6 sedan and replaced the clutch while everything was apart. The squealing noise appears about 15 seconds after startup, and goes away if the slightest amount of pressure is placed on the clutch pedal. If I wiggle the clutch fork around, the noise also disappears and comes back. Any ideas? I appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Sounds like you might need to inspect your throw out bearing and or the fork itself to make sure its not bent. Other then that, possibly a damaged pressure plate? Im really leaning towards that squeal being the throw out bearing having debris or excessive wear..
 

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Question - did you experience any loud squealing noises after you put everything back together? I just finished an engine swap on my 6-6 sedan and replaced the clutch while everything was apart. The squealing noise appears about 15 seconds after startup, and goes away if the slightest amount of pressure is placed on the clutch pedal. If I wiggle the clutch fork around, the noise also disappears and comes back. Any ideas? I appreciate it.
which engine did you swap in? i had a similar issue from using a j37 crank which had a different thickness mounting surface for the flywheel, which essentially pulled the entire clutch/pp/flywheel .2" away from the tob/fork assembly which caused the spring inside the slave to not apply enough preload on the tob to keep it in strong enough contact with the pp fingers. it manifested exactly as you are describing. our tob should be in CONSTANT contact with the pp. if anyone doesn't believe me reach down and grab the fork in neutral it vibrates, push it sway from the pp and the vibration goes away, release and the spring inside the slave will push the tob back onto the pp fingers and it will start vibrating again (from the contact w the pp). it is the same way in my brothers completely unmolested 9g.
 

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which engine did you swap in? i had a similar issue from using a j37 crank which had a different thickness mounting surface for the flywheel, which essentially pulled the entire clutch/pp/flywheel .2" away from the tob/fork assembly which caused the spring inside the slave to not apply enough preload on the tob to keep it in strong enough contact with the pp fingers. it manifested exactly as you are describing. our tob should be in CONSTANT contact with the pp. if anyone doesn't believe me reach down and grab the fork in neutral it vibrates, push it sway from the pp and the vibration goes away, release and the spring inside the slave will push the tob back onto the pp fingers and it will start vibrating again (from the contact w the pp). it is the same way in my brothers completely unmolested 9g.
I put a J32a3 motor in with a matching 6-speed TL trans. The clutch/flywheel/pressure plate were all an LUK kit made for an '04 Acura TL. I pulled it apart and determined the LUK throwout bearing was really stiff, it didn't rotate well at all. I replaced it with the Honda OEM bearing, and all has been well since.

It's very possible that my clutch preload was bad from air in the lines or something else, and the LUK bearing simply just needed broken in? Glad it's over now!

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

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that makes sense. the bearing should be good to go no break in required. my next question was if the face of the tob got greased at all, bc it would cause a similar problem. anything that reduces the friction between the tob/pp interface would cause this. glad you got it figured out.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Glad you found your issue. I have also discovered thru trial and error that OEM is the way to go, if possible...

Tho i do have a luk clutch in mine and its taken a pretty good beating lol...
 

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Steve.

I have a 2007 Accord coupe with a V6 and a 6 speed.
If I get an engine from a donor car that was an automatic, is there any problem mating it with my existing 6 speed manual?
 

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Steve.

I have a 2007 Accord coupe with a V6 and a 6 speed.
If I get an engine from a donor car that was an automatic, is there any problem mating it with my existing 6 speed manual?
You'll have to swap over the intake plenum from your engine from what I remember as I was investigating a transmission swap.

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Discussion Starter #36
There would be absolutely no issue bolting the engine block from an auto, to a manual 6 speed trans. Either the auto intake or manual intake will both bolt on physically and work, but your gonna want to keep manual intake if possible as it has an intake runner control that that auto intake lacks
 

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Thought I would share my experience doing this swap during Ohio's stay @ home order, using this post and couple others to help guide me.

It's very doable and yes I would do it again. I used a totaled V6 M6 I had in my possession so I had every part I needed and I needed to purchase nothing to complete swap.

At first I went minimalist route and swapped just ECU, column, tranny and clutch hardware. My clutch pedal wiring and reverse light wiring wasn't the greatest so I eventually swapped over engine room, ECU sub harness and dash harness. That was way overkill and not needed but It is so much cleaner behind the garnishes now.

In terms of difficulty I don't think it would be considered too difficult that I would tell someone who can pull an engine in their garage and understands wiring diagrams to not do it. In terms of worth it, it depends. I had a complete donor car already and I found a cheap auto v6 with a great body so to me it was worth it.

some tips.
seperate engine from auto while still in car and pull engine straight out, then pull auto out. Engine with manual go in easy together, so much smaller.
Stick to same year range if you are sourcing parts '03-'04, and '05-'07. '05 they introduced ECT2 so ECU will need its input or get an engine light.

Thank you for the post Steve4748, it was a big help.
 

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Thought I would share my experience doing this swap during Ohio's stay @ home order, using this post and couple others to help guide me.

It's very doable and yes I would do it again. I used a totaled V6 M6 I had in my possession so I had every part I needed and I needed to purchase nothing to complete swap.

At first I went minimalist route and swapped just ECU, column, tranny and clutch hardware. My clutch pedal wiring and reverse light wiring wasn't the greatest so I eventually swapped over engine room, ECU sub harness and dash harness. That was way overkill and not needed but It is so much cleaner behind the garnishes now.

In terms of difficulty I don't think it would be considered too difficult that I would tell someone who can pull an engine in their garage and understands wiring diagrams to not do it. In terms of worth it, it depends. I had a complete donor car already and I found a cheap auto v6 with a great body so to me it was worth it.

some tips.
seperate engine from auto while still in car and pull engine straight out, then pull auto out. Engine with manual go in easy together, so much smaller.
Stick to same year range if you are sourcing parts '03-'04, and '05-'07. '05 they introduced ECT2 so ECU will need its input or get an engine light.

Thank you for the post Steve4748, it was a big help.
I'm doing mine and have everything for it, I have the engine harness, ecu harness(engine subharness), but do I also need the dash harness?
 
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