I do not know the answer to your question, however I do know the answer is out there. I believe someone recently said they did program keys themselves somehow. This was said on AcuraZine if I remember correctly. I would use Google search and type in something like 07 tls TL-S program key AcuraZine and see what comes up.

 

I just had my key programmed to an '04 Tl ecu at the honda dealership. took about 10 minutes

 

Thanks simione. OK, with that info I went to another Honda dealer. They can communicate but it won't program the keys...

Could it be that there is a remote starter bypass? Will that matter?

 

Let me re-phrase that. There IS a bypass module for the remote starter. Would that be the reason why they cannot program the keys?

 

I don't know anything about this stuff, but ^ probably.

 

This is what I was talking about, post # 26.

Idk if it will help or not but that guy knows his stuff.

http://wwtl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=885236

 

This is what I was talking about, post # 26.

Idk if it will help or not but that guy knows his stuff.

ECU swap ('04-'06) - so you can run HonData Flash Pro ('07-'08) - AcuraZine Community

He says that he has the answer, but he doesn't give it in that post. Did he post somewhere else with the answer?

Thanks!

 

Will do. Thanks!

 

Can you explain in greater detail more about the car itself...I thought you said something about it being a swap of some sort in a PM you had sent me?

And the bypass module for the immobilizer, I don't know about this one specifically but they all work the same way in regards to the way they function with the system. They create a rolling code once prompted by the ECM to do so which is then sent back to the ECM and thus enables starting of the engine. So if a technician is trying to program the immobilizer ecu and the ECM keeps seeing a stray password, it would most definitely throw things off.

I'd first remove the bypass and then have them retry programming the system. If worst comes to worst, I can help start the car to ensure its no other faults elsewhere preventing a successful program.

 

Thanks yungone. Some details:

2006 Accord Sedan 6spd
Just swapped in a 2004 J32A3 and I have an ecu from a 2005 TL to put in and properly control the new/used engine. So... that's the reason that I need to have keys (or actually the ecu I guess) programmed so that the car will start/run with the swapped in TL ecu.

I've got an appointment at an Acura dealer for tomorrow and will be removing the bypass module tonight. I called the manufacturer's tech support (Directed Electronics) and they don't think that it should interfere, but agreed it's a good idea to remove it from the system. It should really only create a code if prompted by the remote starter. However, the wiring requires an ignition feed to come from the bypass module. So the ignition feed to the immobilizer is cut and then comes from the bypass module. So it does seem to me that this could likely be the issue. See a diagram here: HONDA AUTOMOBILES PKH3 ACCESSORIES Pdf Download.

Notice pin #6 on the immobilizer connector. That is the ignition feed.

So I will update this thread tomorrow after I have results from the Acura dealer. I've been getting mixed messages on whether Honda dealer can program Acura ecu...

Thanks for everyone's responses!

Todd

 

Ok, the diagram helped. It appears that 8 of the 9 circuits for the remote start system would no interference with the immobilzer ecu/ECM programming. The only one that could would be the violet wire coming from the remote starter unit that's defined as "data" and is fan over to pin 2 of the immobilizer ecu. This is the circuit you would want to eliminate so that Acura can program the keys. Leaving all the other circuits as they are wont have any affect on what they need to do. If in the event you still have issues from this point, there may be another fault(s) elsewhere in the circuitry. All of the hardware in the vehicle is compatible and as long as they are operable and the circuitry is correctly established, you should be fine.

Good luck and please, keep me posted on the outcome.

 

My plan is to just unplug the bypass module & jump the ignition wire so that the car will still start/run. So that will take care of any potential issue with the data wire.

The only other strange thing that I've noticed is that my cruise control is intermittent. Most of the time it will not engage but now & then it engages and works fine. I've never had any trouble with it and so far I haven't been able to determine how it could be related. More testing/research to do there. Thinking that a missed/loose ground connection could be a likely cause.

Has anyone else had similar intermittent cruise issues? Particularly after a swap? Experience tells me that 99% of the time when something doesn't work after some job like this.... it's something that I messed up. Just can't figure out what up to now.

Thanks!

 

My cruise has not worked since my swap. Neither has the oil percentage minder (I didn't use it anyway)

 

OK, I'm sure we have the same issue here because my oil monitor is also not working. Cruise was working intermittently but now not at all.

Has anyone else had these problems?

BTW, I've got over 5K miles on the swap since I finished it about 3 weeks ago. Other than a couple of minor issues including the one above in this post, it's been working well.

I verified that the speed limiter has changed and I got worst of 26.5 mpg on the highway and a number of tanks at just over 30 mpg. So it's about the same as with the J30.

Todd

 

hmm... I can't think of any reason for that. And since mine is intermittent, it seems that if in fact it is related to the swap, it almost certainly is just something missed or not done properly.

I'll let you know if I figure anything out with mine. So far a little searching has shown the brake pedal switch to often be the cause. But that should have nothing at all to do with the swap, so I'm not sure it makes any sense on mine. Easy to check though...

 

A little twist... while removing the bypass, I found a 2nd bypass. Can't believe that I left it in there, but the one referenced above was an old one. Anyway, if anyone is interested, you can download the Honda install diagram here: XpressKit.com - Installation Guides Download

OK, so I'll be able to just remove this one and car should still start/run. Hopefully one of these two bypass modules is the reason for the programming problems. I'll know the results later tomorrow.

Todd

 

TWO bypass modules!?

 

Yeah... I know... :banghead:

Only thing that I can think of is that I unplugged it when I put the new module in (many more functions) and when the car didn't start I was too lazy to figure out why so I just plugged it back in.

Anyway, it's at the Acura dealer right now. I'll let you know what happens.

Oh, and my cruise control seems to work for about 5 minutes after first starting the car and then it won't engage after that. I've got some googling to do on that, but I think I've seen others with the same problem.

 

Update. Just got a call from Acura and they got at it early. No problem, programmed fine! :up:

So either it was a Acura vs. Honda software deal or the bypass modules were messing with it.

Thanks to all for the help here.

Todd

 

Great news. Did you change any pins on the accord ecu harness.

 

I'll make those changes tonight. Any tips on removing the pins from the connector? I know that there is just some release to depress, but I've not worked with these particular connectors before. A big picture would be great if anyone has a link.

 

I thought I had some pic on my phone when I change mine but I must have deleted. but yea there is a release its white in color. check this out. by the end of the first page good luck

http://www.v6performance.net/forums...g-honda-accord-performance-discussion/215071-j32a3-swap-7g-accord-1-4-mile.html

 

My swap has been working flawlessly since being done. I got 403 miles out of my last tank. Better mileage than my j30, that is for sure.

 

OK, I'll have to look at the wiring then. I don't care about the oil life monitor but I do want cruise control for long trips. Shouldn't be too difficult to figure out.

I had seen someone else report horrible mileage which didn't make sense to me, but I'm happy with mine. On this recent trip I had several tanks over 400 miles with 465 being the highest. I put 15.2 gallons on that fill. I think the best that I ever got with the J30 was 31.5 mpg.

Todd

 

http://www.v6performance.net/forums...honda-accord-performance-discussion/215071-j32a3-swap-7g-accord-1-4-mile-2.html

Post number 48. I bet that will solve our cruise issue

 

I was thinking about that too but couldn't remember where I saw it. Thanks! I was thinking that it wouldn't matter since it just cancels the cruise, but since A30 is open, that input would just be floating & I guess could be interpreted as a low signal and possibly cancelling the cruise.

I'm also interested to know what A13 is on the J32 ecu. I have a pinout that says "S-DN" but I can't think of what that is. But right now in mine it is getting the clutch switch signal. So it could be messing something else up. And then the other question is, what wire should be there? I have the Honda manual but not the Acura. I need a schematic for the Acura cruise.