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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Gearing up for my first engine build, the j36. This will be my progress/HELP ME! thread. Ive done easily 24 man hours of research on the build (not much i know but its a start), including pouring over the shop manuals for block/head assembly, and countless threads on here and azine.

I built a home made spec sheet to blueprint all the tolerances. I am at the point where im ready to tear down the J32a3 to send to the machine shop for hone/cleaning/decking/measurements. so far i have determined which main/rod bearing i need.

Crank Main Journals:
3123 pulley to fly

Block Letters:
BBCB Pulley to fly

Crank Rod Journals:
DCCDBD pulley to fly

Rod Markings:
333333

Which makes the Main Bearings:
Main 1: B3 yel/yel
Main 2: B1 pink/pink
Main 3: C2 yel/yel
Main 4: B3 yel/yel

And the rod Bearings:
#1: D3 grn/brn
#2: C3 grn/grn
#3: C3 grn/grn
#4: D3 grn/brn
#5: B3 yel/grn
#6: D3 grn/brn

here is my parts list (excluding crank and rods, bought them separate). please let me know if im leaving anything out.









 

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Discussion Starter #2
I will also be replacing the clutch disc, PP, flywheel, and release bearing while I'm at it.

Still undecided what to do w heads. Would a used set of TLS cams be okay to throw in? Or should I buy new?

Honda calls for multiple types of honda bond depending on the application. It's confusing because there's conflicting info online and honda has changed the pn of the bond a couple times. Anyone know of a bond for all applications? I've heard permatex grey thrown around but have no expierence with it.
 

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The Jester
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I will also be replacing the clutch disc, PP, flywheel, and release bearing while I'm at it.

Still undecided what to do w heads. Would a used set of TLS cams be okay to throw in? Or should I buy new?

Honda calls for multiple types of honda bond depending on the application. It's confusing because there's conflicting info online and honda has changed the pn of the bond a couple times. Anyone know of a bond for all applications? I've heard permatex grey thrown around but have no expierence with it.
Used should have little to no impact vs new, unless they got severely severely worn.
Although bisi's are always cool;)

Where does it call for honda bond? In most places permatex grey is perfectly fine, and similar to genuine hondabond but in a tube. Permatex black would be the one to use if you need something in an oily place like oh say the oil pan. Or if you just want something more like a gasket and less like glue. (grey is more like a glue gasket, black you can let dry for a little bit and make it nearer to a real gasket in a tube)

One recommendation I will make for using these is to get the aerosol cans. There are caulking cans and hand tubes available for less, but the stuff is THICK, and usually you're covering a large area, and need precision (otherwise a real gasket would be used) and fatigued hands don't make accurate lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The following locations all call for any of the following sealants:

honda bond pn 08717-0004 or 08718-0001 or 0003 or 0009 or 0012

Engine block end cover
Oil pump
Oil pan
Bearing cap side bolt threads (not called for but many engines including my current motor have seepage here and it annoys me)
 

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get honda ultra flange 2. That what I used. Stuff is a ***** to get off though.
 

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patiently waiting...
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Not sure how soon your planning on dropping the motor in but if your interested I'll have a set of J35A8 RL heads available soon. Def help out that 3.6 ;)
 

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I will also be replacing the clutch disc, PP, flywheel, and release bearing while I'm at it.

Still undecided what to do w heads. Would a used set of TLS cams be okay to throw in? Or should I buy new?

Honda calls for multiple types of honda bond depending on the application. It's confusing because there's conflicting info online and honda has changed the pn of the bond a couple times. Anyone know of a bond for all applications? I've heard permatex grey thrown around but have no expierence with it.
Never put used rotating components on different bearing journals, it can cause extreme wear and in the case of cams destroy the journals in the heads making the heads trash.

I have been using Permatex Ultra Grey for years with no issues.
 

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Bearing cap side bolt threads (not called for but many engines including my current motor have seepage here and it annoys me)
Dont use silicone there, instead use good antiseize compound, heavy cots on both the washer and underside of the bolt head.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok great thanks guys, I know this may seem inconsequential...but what should I use for parts cleaner on the bearings/internals before final assembly. My plan was to use laquer thinner and a microfiber cloth to wipe the parts down, maybe some compressed air to blow them off.

Mite seem anal but I've been reading how important it is to keep things clean w such tight tolerances. What do you guys think?
 

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The Jester
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Ok great thanks guys, I know this may seem inconsequential...but what should I use for parts cleaner on the bearings/internals before final assembly. My plan was to use laquer thinner and a microfiber cloth to wipe the parts down, maybe some compressed air to blow them off.

Mite seem anal but I've been reading how important it is to keep things clean w such tight tolerances. What do you guys think?
Kind of. If you want to do it proper, yes. Lots of people do it without cleaning it analy though.

I would however invest in a can of chemtool, just dip the bolts in there for a few minutes, and blast it with some air. That generally will take care of anything that isn't a hard particulate.

Chemtool>laquer thinner. Thinner won't work on everything that is car as quickly as chemtool will.
 

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Ok great thanks guys, I know this may seem inconsequential...but what should I use for parts cleaner on the bearings/internals before final assembly. My plan was to use laquer thinner and a microfiber cloth to wipe the parts down, maybe some compressed air to blow them off.

Mite seem anal but I've been reading how important it is to keep things clean w such tight tolerances. What do you guys think?
Brake parts cleaner, it does not leave a residue like other cleaners. I Also use the blue scott rags in a box......
 

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yay another build thread. I may go J36 in the future too so provide many pics :). I have heard great things about hondabond. Even the GM eaton guys recommend using it to seal the blower.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I will be updating the thread with as many pics as I have patience for...if we had a better option for uploading pics tha build (and the community in general) would be a lot better off.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Deconstruction tommorrow







 

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Discussion Starter #18
Teardown went well...until I had to get the crank bolt out. Rented the "special tool" but since the motor was on my bench and not bolted into a car I had difficulty tying the engine down so I could apply force without flipping the engine on the bench. Got a buddy with an ass kicking impact I'm gonna use tomorrow. Pics will b ups later, mostly pics of electrical components/locations for me to reference on reassembly, nothing exciting....yet!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Anyone know the tq spec for the crank bolt??? My buddy needs to know to select the rite gun. He's got impacts up to 2.5 in drive.
 

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The Jester
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Anyone know the tq spec for the crank bolt??? My buddy needs to know to select the rite gun. He's got impacts up to 2.5 in drive.
The crank pulley bolt?

It was something ridiculous like 140 ft-lbs.

I just use the same setting that puts tires on, since thats around 100 ft lbs. Usually is pretty well stuck on at that point.
 
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