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:// 05 AV6 6MT
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Discussion Starter #1
So the other day I finally got my case of Nippon Oil Corp's ENEOS 5w20 Fully Synthetic. So far Ive ran it for 400 miles, and the 6/6 seems to love it. It runs super smooth and responsive. I didnt want to join the "mobil 1 is the best bandwagon", because anyone with knowledge of oils knows mobil 1 burns. I used to run castrol syntec for 4 years back when I had my old 6th gen. Amsoil was my 1st choice as their oils are bar none the name in performance oils, but so is ENEOS in the JDM market. So I figured hey, If its good enough for Honda's F1 Racing team, its good enough for my 6/6.

Theres a few video reviews of Eneos on youtube claiming to increase Dyno proven HP. I personally don't believe any oil for that matter will give you any noticeable HP gain, sorry Royal Purple guys (royal purple shears at high temps anyway). The guys at BITOG did a TBN test on Eneos, and it held up well at 10,000 miles. Although they dont market themselves as an extended oil interval, I want the best for my car, Im sure all you guys think likewise.

I'll be sending a sample of my oil around 5,000 miles to Blackstone Labs and see the results for my own. Also to see if my J30A4 is running healthy. Any of you guys run Eneos or have heard of it? Its still relatively new to the US market.

I paired this Eneos batch with a K&N HP1010. I know HAMP filters were supposed to be decent, but this filter has never let me down.


Heres my FREE oil testing kit I received from Black Stone. Costs about 25 bucks to get your results.
 

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I didnt want to join the "mobil 1 is the best bandwagon", because anyone with knowledge of oils knows mobil 1 burns.
Actually its proven not to be just mobil 1, but any synthetic burns in the J series engines. The molecules of the synthetic vs the conventional are smaller than what the engine was designed for and some can slip by the piston rings and into the combustion chamber. With a higher weight such as 5-30 synthetic you should be okay.

Either way, im interested to see the results.
 

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:// 05 AV6 6MT
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Discussion Starter #4
Actually its proven not to be just mobil 1, but any synthetic burns in the J series engines. The molecules of the synthetic vs the conventional are smaller than what the engine was designed for and some can slip by the piston rings and into the combustion chamber. With a higher weight such as 5-30 synthetic you should be okay.

Either way, im interested to see the results.
Hmmm proven? I dont know about that. My old 6th gen J30A1 ran castrol syntec & Valvoline Synpower for years, never burned excessively after 1,000 miles like mobil did. I remember reading a post on here about synthetic being bad, and the same was being said for 5w20. My money is on Honda engineers and race proven results. I'll post my TBN and oil consumption results when the time comes. Minimal oil consumption is normal, I do expect very low consumption with Eneos.
 

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Its a new one on me. Good filter choice. Ive run Mobil 1 EP 5w-30 for years in everything. Amsoil isn't superior enough to justify the price and lack of availability at my intervals. There are better oils than M1 but its damn competitive, even the 5w-30 which isn't their best. Never burns anything more than a quarter quart in 7.5k intervals. If their 5w-20 is good enough for NASCAR, pushrods hitting 9k+ RPM'S, its good enough for me. If that formulation of Eneos is used in F1 at 12k+ Revs I'm sure its good stuff...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Its a new one on me. Good filter choice. Ive run Mobil 1 EP 5w-30 for years in everything. Amsoil isn't superior enough to justify the price and lack of availability at my intervals. There are better oils than M1 but its damn competitive, even the 5w-30 which isn't their best. Never burns anything more than a quarter quart in 7.5k intervals. If their 5w-20 is good enough for NASCAR, pushrods hitting 9k+ RPM'S, its good enough for me. If that formulation of Eneos is used in F1 at 12k+ Revs I'm sure its good stuff...
5w20 in Nascar huh? I'll be darned. That throws everyone's credibility that 5w20 is too thin of an oil down the drain X'D. Im just not a fan of Mobil, by all means not one brand of oil suits everyones needs. Its all about what works for you.
 

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Bobby Lane Racing
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Its a new one on me. Good filter choice. Ive run Mobil 1 EP 5w-30 for years in everything. Amsoil isn't superior enough to justify the price and lack of availability at my intervals. There are better oils than M1 but its damn competitive, even the 5w-30 which isn't their best. Never burns anything more than a quarter quart in 7.5k intervals. If their 5w-20 is good enough for NASCAR, pushrods hitting 9k+ RPM'S, its good enough for me. If that formulation of Eneos is used in F1 at 12k+ Revs I'm sure its good stuff...
Nascar does not use a 5w30. They use a straight 20 weight for races with restrictor plates, and a straight 50 weight for unrestricted.. They have no reason to use a multi grade, multi viscosity oil. They warm up their engines. They never deal with cold starts. Make sense?

Any form of racing you will never see a multi-grade oil used. Even F1.

Anyways, these race engines have a life expectancy of 2500-5k miles. So you can't even compare what you are operating to them. They are designed to race a season and get replaced, and some sanctions to one event and get replaced.
 

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Nascar does not use a 5w30. They use a straight 20 weight for races with restrictor plates, and a straight 50 weight for unrestricted.. They have no reason to use a multi grade, multi viscosity oil. They warm up their engines. They never deal with cold starts. Make sense?

Any form of racing you will never see a multi-grade oil used. Even F1.

Anyways, these race engines have a life expectancy of 2500-5k miles. So you can't even compare what you are operating to them. They are designed to race a season and get replaced, and some sanctions to one event and get replaced.
Actually NASCAR and NHRA do use multi-grade oil in race trim. Joe Gibbs, Roger Penske, etc..I also stated 20 weight not 30 weight. Gibbs for example uses 0w-20 at restrictor plate tracks and 5w-20 at non- restrictor plate tracks. Hendrick in fact uses 5w-30 at certain tracks. They use a thicker multi-grade at certain tracks. For qualifying you will see thinner grades, usually a straight 0 weight, a fewquarts low, though its a dry sump oiling system that holds about 22 quarts. A multi-grade 20 weight can do anything a straight 20 weight can do... plus it holds its viscosity longer thru high temperature use. They warm the oil before putting it in the crankcase true... The life of a racing oil is actually much easier than a street car, generally speaking. BTW... more than 50% of teams use M1.
 

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I ran Mobil1 and Mobil1-EP and I never experienced any oil burning or loss of oil. I ran Mobil1 for 100K on my car with no issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Nascar does not use a 5w30. They use a straight 20 weight for races with restrictor plates, and a straight 50 weight for unrestricted.. They have no reason to use a multi grade, multi viscosity oil. They warm up their engines. They never deal with cold starts. Make sense?

Any form of racing you will never see a multi-grade oil used. Even F1.

Anyways, these race engines have a life expectancy of 2500-5k miles. So you can't even compare what you are operating to them. They are designed to race a season and get replaced, and some sanctions to one event and get replaced.
What I meant in my original post was Honda's F1 team use ENEOS oil, what weight is beyond me. Your a V6P vet, what are you running in your S/C build?
 

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When I used M1 5w-20, I had moderate oil burning after long highway trips. Since I've switched to Castrol 5w-30, I've had zero oil buring/usage. I think the 5w-20 and especially M1 thins out too much.
 

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When I used M1 5w-20, I had moderate oil burning after long highway trips. Since I've switched to Castrol 5w-30, I've had zero oil buring/usage. I think the 5w-20 and especially M1 thins out too much.
Yeah exactly. The M1 5w-30 is a thin 30 weight to begin with and shears down to a 20 weight anyway, so I start there.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
When I used M1 5w-20, I had moderate oil burning after long highway trips. Since I've switched to Castrol 5w-30, I've had zero oil buring/usage. I think the 5w-20 and especially M1 thins out too much.
I agree. The opposite is true with Redline Oil's formulation. Their oil grades are a bit thicker than what they advertise. For example a 5w20 is more like a 5w30. Which is not necesarily a bad thing.
 

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Bobby Lane Racing
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I run redline straight 50 weight race oil on the track, and 10w40 race oil on the street. The oil gets changed out after every track event and before every track event. My car is not SC. it's a fully built 3.5L.
 

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^Did you build the bottom-end with bearing clearances comparable to OEM or looser?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I run redline straight 50 weight race oil on the track, and 10w40 race oil on the street. The oil gets changed out after every track event and before every track event. My car is not SC. it's a fully built 3.5L.
I hear nothing but good reviews about Redline over at BITOG. Awesome oil, worth every penny. It has a high OCI too.
 

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Bobby Lane Racing
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^Did you build the bottom-end with bearing clearances comparable to OEM or looser?
the bottom end is completely built.

ACL race bearings, pistons, sleeve, rods, etc. Tighter.


I hear nothing but good reviews about Redline over at BITOG. Awesome oil, worth every penny. It has a high OCI too.
I've used all kinds of oil. There is no oil that doesn't burn if you race it. Vtec = oil consumption so the more you engage, the more you lose oil.

I use either Redline Race oil, or Shaeffer Race oil
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I was always on the fence between Redline & AMSOIL
I had the same debate amongst myself, but I wanted to go with something different than whats normally available in the US market. So none of you guys run or ever heard about ENEOS? Its a group 5 oil so its very comparable if not the same quality as Redline/AMSOIL.
 

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I've used Redline before and ended up using Amsoil.

Not because I think Amsoil was any better but because I have a local dealer here who is a good friend and gets all the supplies when I need including transmission synchromesh and the overprice oil filter they sell.

Both didn't cause me any harm.

I have also used Motul 300V Chrono 10w40 which didn't cause me any issues. Got it free so what the heck.

Before switching over to synthetic I was running regular conventional Castrol 10w40. DiReally not a big deal, since I did change my oil every 3500-4000 miles.
 
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