Accord V6 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
582 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tools you’ll need:
~ Jack and 2 Jack stands
~ Torque Wrench
~ 3/8 or ½ drive ratchet
~ 10mm, 12mm, 14mm sockets (and some various others)
~ Open end wrenches (12mm, 14mm)
~ Socket extension(s)
~ Beefy flat head screw driver
~ WD-40
~ A friend

Disconnect your battery. You don’t want the fans to turn on (or any other electrical mayhem going on). You may have your hands near the fan blades – if it kick’s on while your there, plan on a trip to the ER for some stitches. Be safe - DISCONECT YOUR BATTERY!!!

Jack the car up on both sides and secure it by using jack stands. Make certain they are secure because you will be tugging on some bolts and rocking the car a bit. You don’t want 3000 lbs falling on you.

Now remove the electric fan on the passenger side. There are 3 10mm bolts holding it to the radiator, and 3 electrical connections to remove. This will make accessing the manifold nuts much easier.

Remove the heat shields front and back by simply taking out the 3 bolts on each heat shield. Since your right there, go ahead and spray your 5 manifold nuts with WD-40 and let them soak for a bit. You’ll come back to them later.

Climb under your car (bring your open-end wrench, WD-40, and ratchet/sockets) and remove the 02 sensor. Start by tracing the wire back about 6” and disconnect it from the harness FIRST, then remove the sensor at the bung from the a-pipe with the open-ended wrench. DO NOT spray wd-40 near the o2 sensor! While your there, spray down the three bolts at the cat. Let that sit for a while you drink a beer.

Done? Okay, it’s time to get to the REAL work.

Start off with the cat by removing the 3 bolts. They are a real PITA. It’s easiest to do this by first spitting at them and calling them foul names like, [email protected]%, &$^*(&, and !!!()%. After you get through verbally punishing them, you will need to use an open-end box-end wrench to help keep the nut on the other side from spinning. (Tip: bang the ratchet with your palm a few times to help break tension). As I’ve said already they are a real PITA, but you can do it. WARNING: do not strip out the bolt heads, you’ll be sorry.

Next up, you’ll need to remove the a-pipe from the manifolds. To do this, you will need an extension, your ratchet, and a 14mm socket. From the underside of the vehicle, remove the three bolts that connect the a-pipe to the manifolds. Do this front and back. It will be difficult to get around the engine mount, but it can be done. If you MUST, use a universal joint to get some flexibility. I don’t suggest you do it because you’ll loose some power to muscle the bolt off. When you get those off, the a-pipe drops right out. SWEET. All that’s left is the 2 manifolds now.

You’ll be removing the nuts for the manifolds from the top side of the engine bay. This part is easy. My nuts came off the manifold without even having to swear at them. It’s sad how ugly and inefficient the old setup was! Relax a second to admire the work you’ve done so far. Drink another beer, and get ready for the grand finish.

On a side note: As much as you’d like to – DO NOT start the car with your manifolds off or with just the new headers on. This will cause problems now with the new setup, and could possibly even bend your valves!

Okay, finish your beer – smash the aluminum can against your forehead, grunt like Tim Allen, and let’s get back to work.

Have a look at your new headers. Determine which header is the front and which is the back. On Comptech the logo is the front one, on OBX and Megan, the logo is the back header. Off brand EBay Headers have no logo – but you can figure it out, one will clear the engine mount, one won’t.

Now that you have determine which is which, put the gasket over the studs on the head, and slip the header over each side. LOOSELY add the 5 nuts back on by hand - make sure you don’t cross thread them.

Once your upper headers are on, the hard part is to try to put the a-pipe on. It helps by using the emergency jack or your buddy to help keep it up in the air. Make sure the put the O-rings on between the headers and a-pipe. Try to line them up and throw the bolts in at the same time. I hope you’re good at multi-tasking. It’s tough to describe it any better than this, and it’s one of the hardest parts: Have your buddy hold new a-pipe up to the new headers. When they are close to being lined up, pop a bolt through and putting a nut on the other side. The washer will go on the NUT side, not at the bolt head, BTW.

Once you get all the bolts through the a-pipe to manifold, you’ll need to connect the a-pipe to the cat. That’s easy because there is a flex tube right before the cat that lets you move it easily. Bolt the a-pipe to the cat and reinstall the 02 sensor – don’t forget to plug it back into the harness, Einstein.

When everything is connected, you can go ahead and start tightening all the bolts. Cat first, then the a-pipe to manifold, then the manifold to the heads. Check everything over and make sure that the engine is clear of everything.

Lower the car and reconnect the battery. Check for stray parts again. If it’s all clear, go ahead and start the car. Let it run for 5 mins and listen for any exhaust leaks. The Header should be a bit louder than the stock manifolds, but not a whole lot. If you have a loud tapping sound it’s an exhaust leak somewhere. You’ll want to re-tighten that immediately before the engine really warms up. Once all stray leaks are taken care of, it’s time to take it for a test spin. Don’t worry – by the time you get to this stage, you’ll be at the 1.5 hour mark and both the beers you drank earlier are worn off by now. Enjoy the feel of a little more torque down low. You’ll notice more and more power for about a week as your ECU learns.

Hope this helped some guys. Sorry I don’t have any pics of it all. I may try to add some later if I get my digi-cam back. I welcome feedback or additions/modifications to my DIY if you have any.

~ Timmy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,309 Posts
Or use Comptechs installation instructions: :D
http://comptechusa.com/store/media/instructions/ins028.pdf

Also I recomend using Naval Jelly to eat away at the rust, makes things much easier especially on theose nuts that are nearest the cat, those can get stripped easy if you mess up.

Also for Comptech headers and maybe some other headers, they don't use studs that thread into the header but float in the holes and only the nuts are threaded on the studs which requires you to hold the otherside down while tightening the bottom which is not required on the stock exhaust manifold.

The above can be accomplished with the help of a friend but I would recomend that you buy some crows feet wrenches that attach to your ratchets and extensions. Use that to hold the top nut while using another ratchet to tighten the bottom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
632 Posts
great job

You guys are awesome, i wanted to try and install headers myself (Dont have them yet, hella broke rite now but in the future!)
and at least now i know where to begin, and if i botch up the job ill come back to this thread and SHAKE MY FIST!!
 

·
4 bangin'
Joined
·
2,277 Posts
Timmybighands said:
Start off with the cat by removing the 3 bolts. They are a real PITA. It’s easiest to do this by first spitting at them and calling them foul names like, [email protected]%, &$^*(&, and !!!()%. After you get through verbally punishing them...
hahaha, wordddd, hahahaha, damn cat bolts. hey, where could i pick up some of this naval jelly?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,309 Posts
Timmybighands said:
Don’t worry – by the time you get to this stage, you’ll be at the 1.5 hour mark and both the beers you drank earlier are worn off by now.

~ Timmy
:laugh:

Not really I would say by the time you are done it would have been about 3 hours maybe a little more if its your first time ad things aren't going your way.

Even Comptech estimates it at 3 hours give or take.

edit:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
582 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Kiet said:
thanks for the diy shane. sure someone will need help somewhere in the future.;)
Cool! I didnt think anyone read. I'll take some photos when I crawl back under the hood so new guys can get a good idea of what everything will look like.

Doctor_X said:
Haha that was a fun read Shane :)

You kept me reading with your humor.
Baaahahahaha. Seriously - the worst part is getting the cat bolts off. I think it's easier if you intimidate them by spitting and calling names. Hey it always worked for me to scare away the bigger alpha-males when I was in pre-school. :D Either that or they thought I was retarded and couldnt bring themselves to beat up a handycapped kid. :)

kleptodathief said:
if u have a hoist and air tools...30mins to install headers on a v6???
Yeah, half hour is not hard to do at all if you have a lift and air tools. I fancy myself quite the DIY guy, and anyone with half a brain will not take the 3 hours Comptech suggests - even on hand tools. A real-life time frame is about 1.5 hours. On a scale of 1-10 (1 being an oil change, 10 being a motor swap) I give this a whopping 3.5.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,106 Posts
how is this diy? did you fabricate the headers?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
582 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hites said:
how is this diy? did you fabricate the headers?
It'd like to be that tallented. But that's not in my deck of cards. It's just a DIY for the INSTALL of the aftermarket headers. It's not difficult, but it's reassuring for people to read about the process and know they can come back and ask questions if something isnt working out for them after they start. That's all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,106 Posts
Timmybighands said:
It'd like to be that tallented. But that's not in my deck of cards. It's just a DIY for the INSTALL of the aftermarket headers. It's not difficult, but it's reassuring for people to read about the process and know they can come back and ask questions if something isnt working out for them after they start. That's all.
oh, ok.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,309 Posts
2001Accordtyper said:
What spec did you torque the manifold bolts to?
Don't remember exactly but I tried to do it as much as I could using my two hands, one to hold the bolt from above and the other hand to tighten the nut onto the bolt from bellow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
I know this thread has been dead for a while but it was really helpful, thanks a bunch!
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top