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Discussion Starter #21
Also, if you have figured out the speed sensors or rpm limiter please share.
I just went back and read your initial post again- I didn't realize you were dealing with an '07! I've never dealt with a 7th gen Accord, they have a different automatic transmission than my old 6th gen (2000, EX V6). I seem to remember that during my time in the junkyards, the 7th gen automatics at least have the same style of speed sensor plug as the manual transmission... it's where I got the plug for mine! If you are running on a stock ECU, then you likely won't need to worry about changing the output waveform from sine to square or square to sine or whatever, I think the AT and MT from 7th gens used the same style of sensor. The output FREQUENCY will be different for sure. You'll have to find out what the gear ratios are for that automatic, and maybe the final drive ratio. Or... since it's a 7th gen, you can find the ECU for a 7th gen manual transmission.... and get the key!!! You'll definitely want the transponder that's in the key so you can cut it out, put it in your existing key (careful when cutting, and remove your old transponder from the old key!) and go have it cloned so you have a functioning, non-janky spare or whatever. I'm fairly sure the MT ECU will plug right in on your car, and you won't have to do ANY of the dumb electro-magic that I pulled for my 6th gen. Hope this helps, and if anyone else can clarify anything, please do!
-John
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Ok so tie the gray with the blue wire. Now what about the cruise cut off? Do I keep that connected to the blue wire as well? Mechanically I can do anything. Wiring I'm a little slower. Lol also with the resistors. Shouldn't the wattage be figured with 14 volts instead of 12? When the car is running the changing system is putting out 14 volts
Ah, you're active! Give me a few minutes to look over my wiring diagrams, I'll try to find what to do with the cruise cut off. And yes- very observant! I definitely SHOULD be calculating with about 14 volts 馃ぃ馃槅 but in the end, I would advise getting resistors with a higher wattage rating than you need. There's nothing wrong with having a robust electrical system 馃槑 Don't forget to upgrade that alternator to an Odyssey alternator! It puts out just a few more amps, like maybe 25 (according to AutoZone for their Duralast brand anyway, stock may be slightly different)
 

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Ah, you're active! Give me a few minutes to look over my wiring diagrams, I'll try to find what to do with the cruise cut off. And yes- very observant! I definitely SHOULD be calculating with about 14 volts 馃ぃ馃槅 but in the end, I would advise getting resistors with a higher wattage rating than you need. There's nothing wrong with having a robust electrical system 馃槑 Don't forget to upgrade that alternator to an Odyssey alternator! It puts out just a few more amps, like maybe 25 (according to AutoZone for their Duralast brand anyway, stock may be slightly different)
Oh I had to idea! I can get those cheap at the You pull lot cheap. I'll watch that video now.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Okay Scorp, if you are using the blue wire for gear 2, then keep the grey (starter cut) and the pink (cruise cut off) tied to the blue wire. What this does is, say you are in the old automatic and you're in Park; the range switch now connects the BLK/BLU stripe (Park) and GRY (starter cut relay) to the RED/WHT stripe which is actually a ground... this makes a complete circuit for the Park function and for the starter cut relay function. If you are in gear 2, the range switch connects BLU (2) and PNK (Cruise Control Unit) to the RED/WHT stripe making two complete circuits there, for 2 and for Cruise. And about that Pink cruise control wire... if you just tie that directly to ground, your cruise control will be available all the time, even in Park, Neutral, Reverse, whatever gear you have selected. It's just the ground/negative for the CC box under the dash, and connecting it just applies power. Disconnecting it removes power from the whole box馃ぃ馃槅.
 

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Wait so if I connect grey, pink and blue together the ecu will think I'm in park. The ecu isn't going to be happy when it notices in driving down the road In park. Wouldn't it be better to tie the clutch pedal switch to the grey wire and then to ground?
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Wait so if I connect grey, pink and blue together the ecu will think I'm in park. The ecu isn't going to be happy when it notices in driving down the road In park. Wouldn't it be better to tie the clutch pedal switch to the grey wire and then to ground?
Here's the wires for your range switch:
P: BLK/BLU stripe
R: WHT
N: RED
D4: YEL
D3: GRN
2: BLU
1: BRN
Starter Cut Relay: GRY
Cruise Control Unit: PNK
Ground: RED/WHT stripe
Grey, Pink and Blue together with RED/WHT stripe will tell the ECU that gear 2 is selected, it will activate the starter cut relay, and apply power to the CC unit. If you are unsure about which wires select which gears, pick one from the list and tie it to the RED/WHT stripe, then go check your dash. You will see definitively which gear is selected. These don't control the lights in the dash, they actually "shift" the ECU into the chosen gear. Starter cut relay and Cruise Control don't go through the ECU, they stand alone.

If you are using the clutch pedal switch, first determine if it is NO or NC (normally open, normally closed). A switch's state is the state it's in when not in use. With your foot OFF the pedal, check continuity on the pedal switch. If you have continuity, it's NC and opens when activated. If you have no continuity, it's NO and closes when activated. You want your clutch pedal switch to be NO if using the starter cut relay, so that with the pedal pressed, the switch closes and applies the starter cut relay to ground (one pole SCR, one pole GND on that switch). I think I had to modify my pedal area to accept a different pedal switch- pretty sure I used a brake pedal switch with both NO and NC contacts so that with the pedal up, the NC contact works the cruise control and the NO contact works the relay. With the pedal pressed, both contacts change states and the closed one opens, the open one closes.

And yes- the ECU doesn't like being "driven" in Park or Neutral, and definitely not happy with no gear selected 馃ぃ馃槅 Did you get it started yet? Something I should pass on- take the swap one step at a time. The mechanical stuff is very straightforward... it's a Honda. As long as you use the CLS lower trans mount, it bolts right up. Same mounts, same axles, no mechanical changes other than that lower trans mount. Electrical, that's the stuff where you want to make one change at a time and test, then see what does or doesn't happen. If you make 10 electrical changes and suddenly it doesn't start, which change is the one that is holding you back? When I first started testing the swap, I got the engine and transmission installed and tried to start it, with no luck. I began checking one item at a time, following the wiring diagrams in my shop manual until I got the starter cut relay figured out, I got the range switch figured out, and eventually I plugged in my old shift solenoids to get rid of THOSE codes 馃槑 Once I got it running I was able to start playing around with the speedometer stuff and the SGI-5E units... I had to clear all the other codes before I could move on, it makes it a little easier to keep track of what's ACTUALLY wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Here's the wires, take notes or get a service manual:

Under-hood transmission range switch wires:

Blue: 2nd gear
Light Blue: Cruise control
White: Reverse
Red/White: Common

Go ahead and tie BLUE and LIGHT BLUE together; you want them both grounded/active at the same time. This enables you to get cruise control working later if you choose. Red/White goes to the common terminal of your relay contacts. The two you wired together go to the NC (normally closed) contacts. This means that without ANY power, your relay sends the 2/CC pair directly to the Red/White wire and you should be in 2nd gear; verify via dash display. Don't worry about blinking D4 yet, one thing at a time!
I just read my original post again and I found out where I went wrong: So... with regard to the range switch, if you pull back the plastic loom you will see two sets of wire colors: one on the range switch, up to its plug, and another set of colors from the socket going back on that harness (that disappears into the firewall). It looks like I was describing the colors on the part of the harness that goes back to the firewall, no the part of the harness attached to the range switch itself. I'll make an edit to clarify this, and provide the wire colors for BOTH sets of wires.... I don't know why Honda would change wire colors from one side of a plug to the other, but they do that a lot as do most manufacturers.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Okay, I made the required edits to the initial write-up. Seems that when I was writing, I forgot that the wire colors change from the actual switch itself to the other side of the plug :cry::eek: That will make or break your swap. The initial write-up was referencing the wires on the harness itself, not the ones on the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Folks, someone brought this to my attention: Acura has discontinued part# 50809-S3M-A00, AKA "Beam, Transmission Mounting" and it is no longer available for purchase from Acura. This means if you want to swap in a 6 speed manual transmission, you need to find that part either at a junkyard or on eBay or similar... that transmission will NOT fully bolt in without that little aluminum bracket. This is the little aluminum bracket that two rubber mounts bolt to:


I found mine on eBay, and at the time, I bought the two rubber mounts new from Acura. Again, that piece is needed to get the transmission into your car- without it, the transmission just kind of hangs there and all the stress goes to the remaining 3 mounts- not cool, not safe. Big thanks to a fellow youtuber for bringing this to my attention!!!!!
 
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