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Discussion Starter #1
So days of hard work and patience collecting parts with lots of research a new project is slowly emerging.

If it isn't obvious already the project is an SC chasis with the 1JZGTE swap. The swap will be all or mostly bolt ons. A basic BPU++ SC300.

For any good project requires a lot of research...

1jz-gte factory specs-

Displacement : 2491cc
Type : Twin Turbo Inline 6 Cyl
Valvetrain : Belt driven DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder
Fuel System : TCCS EFI, Premium Unleaded
Ignition System : Direct fire ignition
Combustion Chambers : Pent Roof
Compression Ratio : 8.5:1
Bore x Stroke : 86 x 71.5

Peak Power : 280PS (206 kW) @ 6200rpm
Peak Torque : 37.0 kgm (268 lb ft, 363 Nm) @ 4800rpm
Fuel Consumption : 210 g / PS*h @ 2000 rpm

Dimensions (LxWxH) : 860 x 670 x 665 mm (MTM)
: 845 x 670 x 665 mm (ATM)
Weight (complete) : 217kg
Turbos : CT12A (2x)
Compressor wheel : 37/54mm
Turbine wheel : 52/42mm
Boost : 0.60-0.69kg/cm2 (8.5 - 9.8psi)
Fuel Injectors : 380cc/min high impedance

Intake cam timing (o-c) : 3° BTDC - 41° ABDC
Exhaust cam timing (o-c) : 46° BBDC - 2° ATDC
Camshaft duration : 224 (in) 228 (ex)
Valve clearance cold : 0.15-0.25mm (in) 0.25-0.35mm (ex)
Spark plug : ND PK20TR11 / NGK BRK6EKPB11
Plug gap : 1.1mm (limit 1.3mm)
Base Ignition timing : 8-12 BTDC (jumper TE1,E1)
Idle rpm : 600-700
Engine Oil : SAE 10W30, API SH

First of all, let me inform you that the #1 myth about the 1jz is NOT true. Parts are easily accessable here in the states.

Soarer (jzz30) 1jz-gte swap into a Lexus SC300

Parts needed: (some may not come w/ your clip or engine set... Supra is refered to as the MKIV)
1JZ-GTE Soarer engine
1JZ-GTE Soarer ECU
1JZ-GTE Soarer trans (if prefered)
Soarer or Supra side mount intercooler/pipes
Supra Upper/lower radiator hoses (if the ones w/ your engine set are cut)
Supra TT throttle/cruise cable
Soarer/Supra Igniter
A spool of 18g wire (to extend the harness)
USB Cable (to shield the knock sensor wires when extending them)
Heatshrink/Solder
New motor mounts (recommended)
MSD Tach adapter (for the tach)
330ohm resistor (for the temp gauge)
HKS Fuel cut defencer (or similar)
Greddy speed limiter cut controller (or similar)
Supra TT/Walbro fuel pump
New plugs (NGK3330's .025-.030 gap recommended)
New Timing belt (Isuzu Trooper 4 cylinders 2.6 liters, or a Greddy for 5 times the cost)
Necessary fluids

The swap is pretty much straight forward. It will bolt up to the SC300 auto or manual trans. Or you can opt to use the soarer auto or soarer r-154.

First thing I would do it extend the harness (about 18 inches). You dont "have" to extend the ECU plugs but for accessibility reasons in the future such as wiring an s-afc, e-manage etc, I would recommend to.

Take off the front bumper, radiator, condensor. This makes it easier to pull the NA motor our and put the 1jz in. The hood should come off too.

Of course you know to unplug your stock harness and pull it through the firewall and unplug the necessary things that need to be unplugged. (atleast I hope so if your attempting to do a motor swap) so ill skip all that... I would unbolt the a/c compressor and leave it to the side so you dont have to re-charge the a/c system. Thats your choice. Pull the NA motor out and drop the 1jz in.

The 1jz will bolt up to the stock motor mount locations on the SC300 and on the SC400. It will go in with the downpipe connected (just takes a little more time). Bolt it up, route the harness through the firewall and everything plugs right in. The plug that goes down to the power steering rack&pinion from near the alternator needs to be lengthened a few inches due to rhd/lhd swap. The SC300 fan shroud will work w/ the 1jz fan. Remove the plastic cover on the inside of the pass. fender so the smic piping can go through there. Take out the 2jz-ge coil. Bolt in the 1jz igniter (it goes on the drivers side shock tower).

The fuel pump takes 2 seconds to do. The less gas in the car the easier it will be. Pull off the bottom part of the back seat (1 clip on each side). Unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the seat back and slide the seat back up and pull it out. Use a small wedge tool or flat head and take the round cover off. Then unscrew those bolts to reveal the fuel pump. If using the Walbro, you will have to cut the wires that go to the pump and resolder it to the harness that comes w/ the Walbro. Your also gonna need to gently bend some of the fuel lines to get the rubber line to fit correctly. After that everything goes back together.

Make sure the tach adapter is wired in or else you wont get a tach reading. The 330omh resistor for the temp gauge goes behind the intrument cluster on the yellow wire w/ the green stripe. You will probably get an airbag light on. Im not sure why it comes on but I just took the bulb out.

Thats pretty much it to get the 1j up and running. Im sure im missing a few things so just ask and ill probably remember......


Im using the Soarer Torsen rear end w/ my set-up. I highly recommend using some sort of LSD when doing this swap. One wheel wonders are no fun. You can use the Supra TT rear ends, but the flange where the d/s connects to the diff needs to be swapped w/ a supra one.

For fluids im using mobil1 10w-30 full synthetic, toyota coolant w/ distilled water and a bottle of water wetter, toyota type-iv trans fluid. You might notice that your car seems to run a little hotter than the NA when you open your hood after a drive. Its normal. Most of the jz-gte's tend to seem a little warm under the hood.

Im using NGK plugs -7(6097 i think) gapped at .028. .030 works if your on stock boost but you want to close it up some if you plan on running higher boost. When doing oil changes I use the Supra oil filter. Part #-90915-YZZD3. There is also another oil filter I have that works. It's about an inch shorter than the one I use, but the part# for that is- 90915-YZZD1


If you are doing the stock swap, stock boost is around 10psi. The twins are ct-12a's therefore the blades are ceramic. If you didnt know, ceramic blades dont like high boost. The highest boost I run on the street is around 16psi (1.11bar to be exact). Most of the Aussies dont push much if any over that as the turbos tend to give w/ all that boost. I have however hit 21 psi in first gear one time just seeing how high it will climb and blew an intercooler pipe. That was a one time only type of thing though. hehe.

When upgrading the 1jz, 95% of the 2jz-gte parts are usable. All but one or 2 of the sensors are exactly the same as the 1jz (what a coinsidence). The basic bolt on part mostly interchangable.

2jz-gte parts that need modding to work on a 1jz:
Catback exhaust
downpipes
Turbo manifolds (the bolt flanges)
Intake manifolds (bolt flanges again)
radiators (mainly fluidyne)
injectors
valve cover gasket

2jz-gte parts that work w/ out modding:
Pulley's including the crank pulley
Waterpump's
internals
intakes
intercoolers
drive belt
alternator
a/c compressor
p/s pump
strut bars
suspension components
wheels (mkiv offsets fit pretty well on the SC)
spark plugs
ignition coils
oil filters

Hope this helps for anyone who is trying to follow or attempt such a project.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So with good news and financial situations going pretty well parts have been coming in to perform the swap. With the economy down scouraging for cheap reliable parts is easier to come by. So on to the pics with some of the parts I have already obtained. Enjoy...:p

Pair of Mickey Thompson on RX-7 Wheels...:eek:
Specs: RX7 Wheels are 16x8 and the tires are 255/50/16.





HKS FCD



MAPECUI With Harness
Note: Pretty much will be using MKIV base map to run the car until I can get it tuned.


Thanks for looking. More updates soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got new parts today.

HKS DP Made for the MKIV modded to fit SC300 with a 1JZ.



HKS FMIC with piping. Piping is going to be powdercoated. :cheers:





And the running 92 SC300 Onyx black. Auto with Tan interior. Brought it home and parked it in the garage.

On to the pics.





First I thing I did was slapped on the DR's and washed her.





Started detailing her for a bit. Nice:camera:



Bumper off... It looks pretty cool.



Stock motor...



Radiator out...



Ewww Rust... Going to be side project in order to get rid most the rust. Possible respray.





Katelyn pulled the interior, most of the seats are trashed, and were going to try and clean the carpet as much as possible. If the carpet comes out well were going to keep it.





Ewww... Stains out of my ass!!!!:yes: Its literally disgusting. But with some clean good chemicals and lots of scrubbing. It should look good.



:???:



While the girlfriend was pulling the interior, I pretty much was disconnecting the harness and prepping the motor to be pulled.



No more intake.:goodjob:

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Pulled the nasty ass interior.







After a few hours of cleaning the carpet(3 Cans of stain remover, and a steamer) at the same time when the the girlfriend was removing all the **** that was under the carpet. I received and mounted some new goodies.

DriftMotion.com custom intake for a 1JZ/2JZ. (I dont really like the blue ;))


Also got a chance to mount the FMIC...


And for the possible final carpet...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Finally was able to pretty much finish the interior. Pretty much have all the stains gone. Also installed the new Sparco seats(Thanks to Clark). Used Supra bracekts, which fit like a charm. :D

Just need a few touchup parts... If anyone has some I have cash in hand to purchase.

Tan Steering Wheel
Tan Shift Knob
Tan Brake Boot



The motor is pretty much ready to be pulled out. PS pump and AC pump pulled 98% of the lines had been pulled. Anyone want a motorset?



Finally finished the interior. Complete new panels with new trims. And new rear seats...No pics of the rear seats, but one pic of the panel.



Finally got my Soarer Auto Driveshaft. SO FREKING JDM MONSTER.!!! :crazy: :eek: :D

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the comments guys.

Brought all 4 headlight pieces back to the apartment for some clearing up. Only took a few snap shots of one set.

Dirty and Hazy: Before


One Coat: After



Second Coat: Possibly Finished



Also a big update is that the motor was pulled. And the motorset is just sitting there.





Remember that rust spot from the bay? I used a rust converter.. Sounds interesting right? Well its a chemical in a bottle that converts the rust into a black looking metal. Awesome ****...





And then I spray painted a little to get more of the black on the car. Still wet.




More updates soon!!!
 

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im still kind of curious why, you decided to swap the 1jz in it. why wouldnt you just rebuilt the factory 2jz. I do realize its non turbo, but they sell turbo kits for it. idk...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I got a good deal for a shell and motor. So I went ahead and got both. Then found a better deal for a rebuilt motor. So I was like what the hell...:bowdown: Stock twins for now. One day be cammed and single.
 
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