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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, im a bit of a honda noob here, ive always been driving my mustang, just picked up an 2001 honda accord ex v6, and im really lovin it. Ive read into the car a bit and realized that im using a E-Vtec car. What determins this? Is there ANY way i can just replace the wimpy e-vtec ones with a reguar ones, and replace the 3500+ rpm cams with an even more aggressive setup? Id like to get a bit more than 200Hp outta this without doing anything too extreme, this, to me would be a good start, oh and what about j30a4 heads on it? ( 2003+ accord heads )
 

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.308
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change the vtec fluid to the high performance type should yield considerable results.

search for cl-s cams.

there's a discussion going on about the a4 head swap; current concensus is not worth it. check the thread for the low down.
 

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Engine mods:
Comptech ice box
Mugen t-stat, switch, cap
DC Headers
NGK Iridium IX or Denso IK-16
CL-S cams
Bored extra 3mm stock throttle body
UR CRANK pulley sc v12 (stock size)
Unichip (custom tuned)
Dr. Evil transmission
CL-S mufflers.

Suspension
Eibach Pro-kit
Koni Yellows
Eibach sway bars
Any brand front strut bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
so if i do this, will my car still be an e-vtec? but just with more aggressive cams? or does it get rid the fact that its an e-vtec?
 

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All of the first gen Honda J-series V6 engines had VTEC-E in them (98-02 Accord, 99-01 Odyssey, 99 TL, 97-99 CL, etc), but they phased it out pretty quickly. The 2nd gen J-series engines out now all have the "real" VTEC in them. You should try searching for cam swap threads because there's a ton of good info in them. CL-S cams are an option, but it won't necessarily be a night and day difference, and you need to get a V-AFC and do dyno tuning also, otherwise it's pointless. Pretty pricey and involved. I'd do other mods first, like intake, headers, UR pulleys, etc. Cams and tuning should be done later down the road IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanx for the help guys :) its much appreciated. One last question, what kinda power can the J30A1 block take before any kinda damage occurs? Whats a good block to run alotta boost through?
 

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Yeah I don't anybody has ever pushed a J30A1 to the point of internal failure. It's actually not a bad engine to boost because it has a low static compression ratio stock. I think 02AV6 has the most power here, but he has custom built internals also. For reference, the Maxima guys over at Maxima.org have been able to get to 500 wtq on stock internals with a crap load of boost. After that they start blowing head gaskets and bending rods. If the J30A1 is built anything like the VQ then it should be able to handle similar power. But yeah, no tranny to handle it anyways. :rolleyes: The Acura guys (CL-S 6spd) might be a better judge of that.
 

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I'd sy you could run 10 lbs of boost safely on teh stock internals. There is a guy with the J32 6 speed that is running 9 lbs of boost,a dn they even have a higher compression ratio than us.
 

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xXxCLS bOoStEdXxX
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i remember reading the comptech blowers maximum psi is 10, so i mean ur kinda stuck there u cant boost it any higher.

anyone else read that?
 

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SteVTEC said:
CL-S cams are an option, but it won't necessarily be a night and day difference, and you need to get a V-AFC and do dyno tuning also, otherwise it's pointless.
V-AFC is pointless as it doesn't provide any benefits on J-series engines. Anything less or over stock VTEC engagement point and power will be lost. It was concluded on CL-S and determined to leave AS IS. I'm pretty sure thats the same on J30A1 unless there is someone did before/after dyno (on the same machine) with actual results but J32A2 lost the power. Since J30A1 runs too rich from the factory S-AFC would be better option as it doesn't touch VTEC at all and tuner can just lean the a/f mixture to gain power.
 

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HONDA_99 said:
this mod only needed if you have boosted engine, otherwise its waste of money especially in colder environment.
Not really. Mugen mods keep the engine in 175-185 degrees range (195-205 stock). This causes the ECU to run about 2 degrees more ignition timing advance. Because of that there won't be any power loss as it was with stock temperature and both FI or NA will get benefits or running leaner which is great since AV6 tuned too rich from factory.
 

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Av6Ent said:
Mugen mods keep the engine in 175-185 degrees range (195-205 stock). This causes the ECU to run about 2 degrees more ignition timing advance. Because of that there won't be any power loss as it was with stock temperature and both FI or NA will get benefits or running leaner which is great since AV6 tuned too rich from factory.
Stop quoting me ;)
 

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As far as VAFC it's more worthless for blown vehicles utilizing ESM.

Not sure on NA AV6, however I have seen leaned out NA CL-S all the way to to above 13.5:1 AFR and the power didn't really change. I may have picked up a couple of ponies but that is questionable.
 

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here is a dyno graph of my absoluetly stock (- the resonator box in the fender for the intake) 3.0CL. Same engine as 98-99 Av6. It's a second gear run so I could see the entire rpm range, then they printed it out as power vs speed instead of power vs rpm, I was kind of pissed, but oh well.

notice how it drops into low 12's AFR near the high rpm. Might go even richer with all my mods on. I'll find out again when I get everything installed and go tune it.

 

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Av6Ent said:
Not really. Mugen mods keep the engine in 175-185 degrees range (195-205 stock). This causes the ECU to run about 2 degrees more ignition timing advance. Because of that there won't be any power loss as it was with stock temperature and both FI or NA will get benefits or running leaner which is great since AV6 tuned too rich from factory.


but dont our engines like, not run normal untill they hit there normal operating temps????????
 

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SteVTEC said:
All of the first gen Honda J-series V6 engines had VTEC-E in them (98-02 Accord, 99-01 Odyssey, 99 TL, 97-99 CL, etc), but they phased it out pretty quickly. The 2nd gen J-series engines out now all have the "real" VTEC in them. You should try searching for cam swap threads because there's a ton of good info in them. CL-S cams are an option, but it won't necessarily be a night and day difference, and you need to get a V-AFC and do dyno tuning also, otherwise it's pointless. Pretty pricey and involved. I'd do other mods first, like intake, headers, UR pulleys, etc. Cams and tuning should be done later down the road IMHO.

Maybe in america, my 98 AV6 seems to be all VTEC to me, I could be wrong, how do you determine if its VTEC - E? Im almost positive its not a low emission vehicle.
 
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