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Discussion Starter #1
So after tearing apart my motor to find I bent all 12 exhaust valves and screwed up a rod, I've decided to replace to original beast. I found a J30A4 with 50K miles on it for $400. 90 day warranty, and delivered overnight from Tennessee. I recently replaced my clutch so I've dealt with the nightmare of dropping the front subframe. Any tips on making this swap any easier? I've up for suggestions. Thanks everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I'm planning on dropping it from the bottom and lifting the car to remove it. Also, my original block may be for sale. I'll humor any and all offers. It's not a bad start for a project block.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
let's move on from the J32A3, guys. I needed to get this on the road ASAP and the J30A4 was an easy find and a good deal. Now if we can circle back to the topic of my original post... hahaha
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No idea what happened to the rod. The motor had 150K miles on it and I'm pretty sure a rod bearing went out. I haven't had a chance to dig around and check it out. Just a guess at this point. I ran a compression test and had one cylinder around 65psi. No bueno. Plus it drops down about a 1/4in when I apply pressure with my thumb. As far as the valves? My guess is leaning towards the TL Type S cams. I just had a roller fly apart the other day and replaced that. Ever since I've swapped in the bigger cams, I've had issues with my valve train. Plans are to fully build the heads and build a J33 stroker bottom end. I'm not sure what the J30A4 came off. It will be here tomorrow. I'm replacing the timing belt and all spark plugs when it arrives.
 

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Ok, not sure if any other sensors are different, but the intake mani is different from auto to 6speed. Also, contact Paul NVA-AV6 about fully built heads and j3? bottom end.
 

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I'd like to build a J33 bottom end and have fully built heads. My buddy owns a machine shop and said $450-$500 plus parts will build my heads. That's all the port/machine work and assembly. This will be a project that will span over the next year or so. I can just use the manifold off my original engine.
 

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strange to see you have 12 bent exhaust valves as well... i purchased the car from a dealer the first of december and the check engine light came on that week. got a contract signed that it would be fixed or honda supplies a new engine. just the other day they finally found the problem to be 12 bent exhaust valves. the car has 94k miles on it. makes me wonder what would cause this to happen. anyway, no longer my concern, ive got the heads off to a machine shop and the block has been chemically cleaned of all the carbon build up. not costing me a cent :] good luck to you! and lemme know if you solve the mystery
 

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DAT Dewd from Dallas MANG
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yo...

are either on of you 6mt manuals?...if so I would suspect someone has mechanically overrevved the motor...

otherwise I have no idea how the engine bends 12 exhaust valves...did the valvetrain make any noise before this?
 

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To me either someone over-reved the engine at some point in time or maybe no one ever adjested the valves during the engines life. 40k and 90k, if i'm not mistaken.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
i've always spent close attention to adjusting my valves. no idea what caused it. I NEVER over-rev my motor. so the mystery continues. either way, an all stock J30A4 will replace the beast until i get it built.
 

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DAT Dewd from Dallas MANG
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yo..

Well thanks everyone for tips on replacing my engine. This forum is really helpful.:banghead:
ask Paul (NVA-AV6)or Kiet (nighthawkv6) about the valves...


any other questions let us know...

are you manual or auto?...

new clutch or pressure switches going in it? (if your AT)


also now is the best time to clean anything with carbon and crap on it...
also you can modify the oil pump to put out more oil pressure as well...
 
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