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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well since I was finally able to pay a visit to Paul, I feel like I have sufficient reason to start my own build thread.

I'll start before my visit to Paul's magical workshop, or a time I like to refer to as BP or Before Paul.

I bought my Nighthawk Black Pearl 04 coupe V6 6MT in February 2009 with 46k miles. List of mods over the next four years...

Exterior:
Grillcraft Lower Center Grill
OEM Smoked Fog Lights
Black Pearl Dipped Badges
15% tint
Tinted Tail lights
Enkei EDR9 Rims

Interior:
SMD Super White Interior Lighting
Built-in Aux Input In Center Cubby

Performance:
AEM V2 CAI
Unorthodox Underdrive Crank Pulley
Goodridge SS Brake Lines
R1 Concept Premium Drilled and Slotted Rotors
XLR8 V2 Jpipe
Tokico Blue Struts
Tein S-tech Lowering Springs
Wicked Tuning rear Camber Kit
TL-S Rear Sway Bar

Now for AP. Purchased a few parts from another member on here who ordered some things from Paul.
Part of the deal was:
Custome Dual Throttle Body Intake Manifold
PnP Lower Plenums
Paul's Milled Heads
TL-S Cams and Springs
At the same time I also got my side mount replaced with one of Paul's filled mounts, RV6 V3 Precat Deletes, and the timing belt kit.

Here's the custom DTB IM


And the final product



During this little project a few problems came to light (aside from my inability to tighten anything down as Paul would probably like to point out). While the heads were off Paul pointed out that I was burning a decent amount of oil in cylinder two and a little in one or two others. He has also showed how some of the pistons had room to shimmy in the cylinders as well as scratched side walls of the cylinders.

To bring up a past arguement he has made, DON'T USE FULL SYNTHETIC OIL! I've been running Royal Purple since I got the car and I'm currently at 72k. The damage was obvious to even me who knows nothing about the internals of the motor.

This is resulting in a J36 build along with many other supporting mods coming later this year.

As of now, the check engine light has finally gone out after exactly 600 miles after install of the DTB. It threw an intake leak code. The ecu is having a really hard time learning with such a huge change in air flow. I still don't think it is running at full potential and I might have another exhaust leak I only hear under load. Or it is just the result of being catless with a factory cat-back. It sounds horrible.

On a positive note, I managed to chirp third the other day which had never happened previously. And I'd like to thank Paul for his work and cooperation. That man is a genius in so many areas aside from his god like mechanical abilities.
 

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Congrats on the dual tb, that's my next mod when i save some more. I picked up my car from Paul's this morning and may have seen your coupe last week.
Conventional FTW!!
 

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dyno numbers!!! haahah. Paul does great work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Congrats on the dual tb, that's my next mod when i save some more. I picked up my car from Paul's this morning and may have seen your coupe last week.
Conventional FTW!!
We did it on the 11th. But yeah, it's not hard to guess which house is Paul's. It's like an Accord block party. There were a few member's vehicles there.


As for dyno, I do plan on getting one done but I want to make sure the ecu has completely ironed everything out so I can see the true gains. I wasn't able to get a dyno done before hand because all the shops around the base here close early and don't have weekend hours. I'll be sure to post when I finally get the dyno done.
 

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Sleeper
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Fcking awesome. So, a J36 huh? Are you going to be selling your pcds and jpipe for pauls better setup? Don't forget me when it comes time to sell that jpipe! You need a 3" exhaust really bad, it would really open the engine up big time.

Seriously though, how is the power difference?
 

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very nice my friend :) I can't wait to get my dual throttle body manifold too :) Keep on going I love my j36 and you will love it as well :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I imagine that I will be keeping the PCDs and Jpipe. The parts list for that build is already adding up too quickly. As of now I'm looking at getting the J36 block with:
LSD
OEM Clutch kit with p2r 6 puck disk
CVD
TL-S Front Sway Bar
AEM FIC/Ethan's Piggyback(if it will work) + harness
RDX Injectors
AEM Wideband/guage
Paul's front and rear mounts
TL front dampner and CL rear Dampner

You can see how this won't be cheap... Maybe after the Navy starts paying out part of my Nuke bonus I'll be able to go wild on the car.

I do want to get the exhaust taken care of but I don't want the associated noise. I want the same sound I had with the AEM V2 where it wasn't noticable till you get on it and then it had an aggressive tone to it. I'm kind of forced to do something now because of how "airy" the exhaust sounds but not sure which route to go, especially while trying to save money for the j36 build.

As for the power, its still hard to say. The ecu is finally starting to mellow out and I don't get to do much driving here on base. I can tell its not running to its potential yet. It will start to pull hard but then doesn't follow through a lot of the time. My friends are saying the car feels like it pulls much harder but I'm gonna wait for a dyno or at least some more street "fun" time before saying anything more on gains.

Tenzing, I got to check out your car while I was there, very nice. Too bad I didn't have more time there and you weren't around, I would have liked to have seen under the hood and have gone for a ride.
 

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Sleeper
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I imagine that I will be keeping the PCDs and Jpipe. The parts list for that build is already adding up too quickly. As of now I'm looking at getting the J36 block with:
LSD
OEM Clutch kit with p2r 6 puck disk
CVD
TL-S Front Sway Bar
AEM FIC/Ethan's Piggyback(if it will work) + harness
RDX Injectors
AEM Wideband/guage
Paul's front and rear mounts
TL front dampner and CL rear Dampner

You can see how this won't be cheap... Maybe after the Navy starts paying out part of my Nuke bonus I'll be able to go wild on the car.

I do want to get the exhaust taken care of but I don't want the associated noise. I want the same sound I had with the AEM V2 where it wasn't noticable till you get on it and then it had an aggressive tone to it. I'm kind of forced to do something now because of how "airy" the exhaust sounds but not sure which route to go, especially while trying to save money for the j36 build.

As for the power, its still hard to say. The ecu is finally starting to mellow out and I don't get to do much driving here on base. I can tell its not running to its potential yet. It will start to pull hard but then doesn't follow through a lot of the time. My friends are saying the car feels like it pulls much harder but I'm gonna wait for a dyno or at least some more street "fun" time before saying anything more on gains.

Tenzing, I got to check out your car while I was there, very nice. Too bad I didn't have more time there and you weren't around, I would have liked to have seen under the hood and have gone for a ride.
This is my custom exhaust. If you like it I'll let you know whats done.

Driving around my town. - YouTube

V6 accord custom exhaust - YouTube

Inside customers exhaust - YouTube
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That sounds good. Not overly loud, though I'd hope to build something slightly more quiet. So I see its Dynomax VT mid muffler and dynomax super turbo mufflers. I'm guessing its all three inch. Are you running catless with no resonators? How much in materials and then install?
 

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Sleeper
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That sounds good. Not overly loud, though I'd hope to build something slightly more quiet. So I see its Dynomax VT mid muffler and dynomax super turbo mufflers. I'm guessing its all three inch. Are you running catless with no resonators? How much in materials and then install?
The dynomax vt is 3" and the two super turbos are 2.5" I do not have a resonator. I want mine even more quiet so I plan on adding a 20+ inch resonator. I am completely catless. Everything cost me almost exactly $500. Adding another resonator is probably an additional 100-125. Which really isn't bad imo. I have a lot of mountains here so I get some drone going up the hills but when it's flat it is almost as quiet as stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That valve in the VT has me worried. Just something additional to go wrong. Spring could weaken or rust causing it to stay open or closed. Did you split it with the mid muffler or use a Y pipe?

And would I have to customize the Jpipe to go to a three inch?
 

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^ You should, yes. You may not have to get it completely remade if you want to modify the collector, but that's up to you.
 

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That valve in the VT has me worried. Just something additional to go wrong. Spring could weaken or rust causing it to stay open or closed. Did you split it with the mid muffler or use a Y pipe?

And would I have to customize the Jpipe to go to a three inch?
You can hear the flap when the engine is going down from high rpm. The burps cause it to open and close quickly, it nothing that bothers me imo. The VT fit (barely) where to mid muffler is. I fit a 3" to dual 2.5" y pipe where the stocker is. Honestly if I could or really wanted to I'd just take the flap out. From 2-3k I get this echo and I think it is sound waves that are bouncing from the ypipe back up to the flap and etc. If it wasn't for that this would be great. When I get a resonator put on I will probably have that done.
 

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Catless 3" after jpipe to 3" splits. To vibrant mufflers... I need to get a resonator... or have it step down to 2, 5" splits. I have even thought if redoing the whole exhaust or trading it. ...
 

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Catless 3" after jpipe to 3" splits. To vibrant mufflers... I need to get a resonator... or have it step down to 2, 5" splits. I have even thought if redoing the whole exhaust or trading it. ...
2.5" is all anyone needs. I would modify the jpipe. Right after the collector I would cut it and attach 3" pipe.
 

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If I would've known my exhaust would be this loud I would've just done a cutout and saved easily over $1000 with all the setups I've had. That's wheels/tires right there. Plus the $600 in tickets I recently got, that's easily a solid set of wheels/tires, brakes, and possibly the FIC or Ethan's Piggyback. Son of a b*tch.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd be sure to get a cutout, and recommend them to everyone lol.
 
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If I would've known my exhaust would be this loud I would've just done a cutout and saved easily over $1000 with all the setups I've had. That's wheels/tires right there. Plus the $600 in tickets I recently got, that's easily a solid set of wheels/tires, brakes, and possibly the FIC or Ethan's Piggyback. Son of a b*tch.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd be sure to get a cutout, and recommend them to everyone lol.
ima have to agree on this one... i learned that pretty much the only thing that matters is everything from the cylinder heads to the collector.. thats it as long as you dont get smaller after the collector there will be no effect on power. IDK jus my opinion from see alot of guys runnin open header on K-series and b-series engines.
 

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Holy sh1t that manifold looks insane....want.
 

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^^ Did you just now notice the pics? Lol but yeah that thing is a monster. I want one, bad.
 
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