Alright, so has anyone here completely deleted their intake manifold runner butterfly actuator? I know a lot have deleted the plates themselves but has anyone removed the little motor on the side? I keep getting a P1078 CEL even if I have the self test turned off through Hondata. No matter if I have the motor plugged in or not, I have the CEL. Hondata blames the motor but I thought people unplug theirs without a CEL.
Oh and an update. Made it back on the dyno today...this time limited by too soft of a waste gate spring. Made 450whp at 11.6 psi. Hoping to get a stiffer spring and be back at the dyno within a week.
Well, after a few complications, I finally got that final tune session done. Turns out the turbo is the restricting factor here. Looks like the exhaust side is too small and already flowing as much as it can. Surprised the 6262 maxed out that early being that it says is flows enough air for 700HP. Only managed to get 501WHP out of it at 17 PSI. I'll probably leave it that way since its already more than I can keep to the ground out on the streets. Not to mention the 725cc injectors are running at 82% duty so the bigger turbo would end up requiring even bigger injectors.
But for now, I'll just use it as my daily and see how many mustang owners I can piss off.
I have Injector Dynamic 725 currently. If I decide to go for any more power, I'll probably upgrade these at the same time. I'd like to maintain an ~80% duty cycle.
As for the 410's, I had a tuner tell me I was running out of fuel on my J36 with the m90 at ~4500rpm at 6PSI. I'm pretty sure that I was still running the Stealth 340 pump at the time as well.
In regards to the 6262, I'm still new to the turbo world but the tuner said the exhaust side is too small for the amount of air my engine flows. He said that its flowing a lot more air than he ever expected it to. From the understanding I got from him was that between the 2.5" individual downpipes and excessive backpressure from the turbo, the hot side is flowing as much air as possible right now. It doesn't really make sense but it looked like he kept getting higher boost after adjusting the boost controller each run but the curves looked almost identical.
Instead of getting a all new turbo, change the Turbine housing to a larger A/R to allow for more air. Larger A/R and that thing will have more power and spool quick, especially if the tuner says its backing up
Maybe you guys can point me in a direction. Right before I left for deployment, I started the car and it idled high. As it came down, it started hunting and stalled pretty quickly. I was having a hard time keeping the idle up just to turn it around. When I pulled out on the road and started to climb the hill in third, it started to build boost and then felt like a fuel kill happened. I then noticed everytime I got the RPMs to 3k or above the, the tach would bounce with a + and - 200 RPM swing. I drove the remaining half an hour to my house with it becoming harder and harder to maintain idle at red lights. The next day I went to park the car where it was going to be stored while on deployment and almost had to floor it just to get the RPMs high enough to turn it around.
As for code, my dad failed to keep the battery charged while I was gone so those were lost. I just got back and got it running again just at idle to see what codes I could get. I got throttle position not learned and throttle position A and B corralation issue. I have had the position not learned code since the beginning with no issues. So while we were pulling the codes and showing my buddy what it was doing, it stalled and this time I lost all power. We ended up finding the power line going from my distribution block to the fuse block had corroded completely through. I made a new wire and it started just the same.
So on cold starts it would start fine and idle pretty consistent but the closer it gets to operating temp the more the rpms would swing and then eventually stall. RPMs still bounce at 3k but using his snapon reader, the actual RPMS were steady, only the tach indicated bouncing.
Took it for a test drive and it drove pretty normally under 3k. I started to pull a hill and boost started to build cause I left it gear longer than usual and as soon as it did I got the CEL, TCS and TCS triangle all come in. I went to advanced and pulled the codes. I have ABS codes, one for each rear wheel sensor, battery voltage malfunction, brake switch malfunction, ECM/PCM malfunction, Controller area network relation malfunction. I got one engine code, crank shaft position sensor B circuit intermittent. I cleared all of the codes. Same scenario climbing the hill and boost happened all lights came back in. I didn't risk driving the car back to Advanced to check the codes. Sadly I'm parking the car while I go out of town again so I'll have to wait to verify that its the same codes that came back.
The car was running completely fine as a daily prior to these issues. So does anyone have a clue to what would cause these issues or the tach to show changes in RPM that isnt accurate only at or above 3k?
Looking for some opinions... I'm upgrading my stock throttlebody to the zdx TB requiring me to get a new manifold. I'm currently stuck between the 3.7 manifold or the that new holley set up. Does anyone see any advantage over the other for the price difference? Keep in mind this is for a boosted set up.
Hey guys, just finishing up getting the car back together after a tranny rebuild and some other modifications. I was looking into the billet water necks to help clean up the engine bay. Has anyone on here used this? How did you set up your hoses and does it require you to get rid of your heater core? I'd look for myself but my garage is about an hour away.