[reccakun08]

i think u need a better tune.... its running pretty rich

 

[ETaccord]

i think u need a better tune.... its running pretty rich

Rich? I'm seeing "lean"... in "boost" with "load" I'm thinking between 11.5 -12.0 f/a is a good mark to stay in.
I'm wondering if "slowaccord" was about to detonate when the f/a dropped to 10.4? Hard to say... there's no "gear" but probably mid/top of D3 with torque converter locked?

Slowaccord, sorry to read your frustration in tuning, but your performance is pretty damn impressive anyhow. Thanks for the posts!

ETaccord

 

[Lumpy]

The higher the #, the leaner the a/f. For example 13:1 is leaner then 11:1..You should run the highest octane available for your car and then you need to lean it out about another 1/2 turn. The higher octane will help to keep you from detonating up by redline and the 1/2 turn will bring your a/f up in the mid range. Your a/f has way to much variation. Look at Blackv62k2 graph. Hes getting max power in the 12.5 range. Last time I dynoed my car, the a/f (measured at the tailpipe) started at 11.8 and went to 12.6 at redline. Ideally, you would keep your a/f from ever dipping down below the 11.0 marker.

 

[slowaccord]

The higher the #, the leaner the a/f. For example 13:1 is leaner then 11:1..You should run the highest octane available for your car and then you need to lean it out about another 1/2 turn. The higher octane will help to keep you from detonating up by redline and the 1/2 turn will bring your a/f up in the mid range. Your a/f has way to much variation. Look at Blackv62k2 graph. Hes getting max power in the 12.5 range. Last time I dynoed my car, the a/f (measured at the tailpipe) started at 11.8 and went to 12.6 at redline. Ideally, you would keep your a/f from ever dipping down below the 11.0 marker.

hmmmmmmmm i was told my car was hitting 14:1 a/f ratio up top so he had to add more fuel via the FPR. I did notice that my car felt a little quicker and i verifed that when i made an 85-115mph run against my brothers camaro SS. Even though he won, he took me by a little more than a car length. Before the tune he would win an easy 2 car lengths and still be pulling. half the reason i lose is because his auto shifts down to second and im stuck in 3rd gear. and having a ram air LS1 doesnt hurt either

edit: i was so anxious to get my car back on the road i didn't even ask if the results are corrected or not.

 

[BlackV62K2]

The higher the #, the leaner the a/f. For example 13:1 is leaner then 11:1..You should run the highest octane available for your car and then you need to lean it out about another 1/2 turn. The higher octane will help to keep you from detonating up by redline and the 1/2 turn will bring your a/f up in the mid range. Your a/f has way to much variation. Look at Blackv62k2 graph. Hes getting max power in the 12.5 range. Last time I dynoed my car, the a/f (measured at the tailpipe) started at 11.8 and went to 12.6 at redline. Ideally, you would keep your a/f from ever dipping down below the 11.0 marker.

Trying to keep the mids in 11s will lean out the already lean top-end. This is of course with just FPR tuning. I know this can be done with Emanage. I would like my mid to lean out some more but I don't wanna risk leaning out the top.

 

[ETaccord]

The higher the #, the leaner the a/f. For example 13:1 is leaner then 11:1..You should run the highest octane available for your car and then you need to lean it out about another 1/2 turn. The higher octane will help to keep you from detonating up by redline and the 1/2 turn will bring your a/f up in the mid range. Your a/f has way to much variation. Look at Blackv62k2 graph. Hes getting max power in the 12.5 range. Last time I dynoed my car, the a/f (measured at the tailpipe) started at 11.8 and went to 12.6 at redline. Ideally, you would keep your a/f from ever dipping down below the 11.0 marker.

Ha! Hence the a/f (air to fuel) ratio. I stand corrected and stupid!
It's been a very long time since my last Dyno run, and back then... a/f ratio was everything.
I'd also like to ask... why do you measure from the tailpipe? Is it not better to take the reading before the cat?

 

[reccakun08]

What? you dont make any sense.
Anyways his car is def running rich after ~3.5 and pretty lean before 3. For boosted cars you want to stay around ~11.5-12ish. With a better tune u can definately squeeze more power and have better gas mileage.

 

[BlackV62K2]

What? you dont make any sense.
Anyways his car is def running rich after ~3.5 and pretty lean before 3. For boosted cars you want to stay around ~11.5-12ish. With a better tune u can definately squeeze more power and have better gas mileage.

That's the problem with us SC guys tuning just with the FPR. We're lean down low and up high but quite rich in the mids.

 

[Accord_V6_400m]

That's the problem with us SC guys tuning just with the FPR. We're lean down low and up high but quite rich in the mids.

Yeah, tuning by those methods tune the whole powerband which is to say that if your low end is rich and your bogging you will lean it out but lean out the high end as well, and vis versa possibly. Thats why a piggy back ECU is great for tuning.

 

[Lumpy]

I'd also like to ask... why do you measure from the tailpipe? Is it not better to take the reading before the cat?[/QUOTE]


Im not sure, but I guess the cat cleans the air a little, so it must make a difference.

 

[slowaccord]

What? you dont make any sense.
Anyways his car is def running rich after ~3.5 and pretty lean before 3. For boosted cars you want to stay around ~11.5-12ish. With a better tune u can definately squeeze more power and have better gas mileage.

you cant get a much better tune with just the FPR. like other have said it tunes the whole powerband so if u lean the mid section out, your top end would be extremely lean.

 

[Red02AccordV6_2]

just wondering, how fast do you run in the 1/4?

 

[slowaccord]

just wondering, how fast do you run in the 1/4?

never ran it

 

[reccakun08]

why not get safc or something? i know standalones are expensive b/c im sure u would have gone that route. but definately some sort of safc. do u have a wideband?

 

[slowaccord]

why not get safc or something? i know standalones are expensive b/c im sure u would have gone that route. but definately some sort of safc. do u have a wideband?

i think the safc is outdated. Unichip tuning in norcal is garbage. That pretty much leaves just greddy e-manage and i dont know of a good shop that will give me a decent tune. Ive spend more than 3 times the money that I should have spent just to get a decent tune. Thats why i am so wary of purchasing a chip. It would defeat the whole purpose if the shop can't do their part and will just leave me dissappointed.

I wish i had a dedicated shop like 02av6 that did my tuning and that i could trust.

Every shop I've been to so far with the exception of comptech has been a waste. Schottz and Krum of sacramento is a flaker. He put me off for 3 whole months before telling me he won't tune my car.

Scott performance in santa clara is the one who did my "tuning" last time. TED (the owner) drove my car around for 15 minutes with some 17 year old rookie employee with a lab top. He hooked a tailpipe reader to my exhaust and went for a joyride. He didn't even invite me to ride along in MY car and came back saying he "street tuned" it. Mind you he never once popped my hood to physically touch my FPR (I know because i asked him and his dumbass admitted it). Then i headed to Dyno spot racing to get the dyno printout Scott performance PROMISED ME and that proved scott performance pretty much just ripped me off. Look at that A/F ratio and tell me anyone with a right mind could call that a tuned chip. I can't verify he did a single thing to my car. But he was more than happy to take $150 for a 15 minute ride to who knows where. I went 120 miles each way so this thief named TED could steal and lie to my face. What is the point of a unichip if you cant tune better than a Standard FPR?

I even called JACK FRIEDMAN who is the head of unichip and for all the problems and tuners i told him about, all he said was "ok." nothing more. His response was pretty much that its tough luck for me. At this rate Unichip deserves to go out of business.

sorry for the rant

If I had a shop that I could depend on, I would have installed 270cc injectors with some sort of injection kit, but im gonna put that on hold for now.

 

[reccakun08]

270cc injectors i think is still a bit small for the power you are running

 

[slowaccord]

270cc injectors i think is still a bit small for the power you are running

I think they should be sufficeient for the cls pulley. the only time the the oem injectors have trouble supplying fuel is the very top end.