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Hey guys, so my inspire foglights relay crapped out on me since it got exposed to the rain and got a new one but not the exact same one. It fits and my fogs worked for a little bit but then my driver side blew out but the passenger works. So could it be the relay that blew it? I just find it weird how it just happened to have blown right after replacing the relay on the same day.
 

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Hey everyone new to forum been reading as much as I can on here and finally got around to signing up. I have a 03 honda accord coupe 6 6mt with front right damage..the wheel was pushed all the back up against the wheel well iv since put the car on jack stands and proceeded to assess the damage my dumb questions....from what I can tell the lca itself does not look bent the only noticeable thing I can see is that the middle subframe mount is completely broken all the way threw and at the front of the lca were it mounts to the subframe the rubber bushing inside of it is completely busted ...could those two things cause my wheel to be pushed all the way back obv picture would be helpful iv taken some just can't post them yet any info would be greatly appreciated
 

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Hoping someone knowledgeable will see this post >> today, I noticed a piece of weatherstripping has come loose from my sunroof >> about 24" long, came from the forward section of the sunroof, underneath the wind deflector.

Would love some advice on exactly how it is supposed to go back in, and if I can just reinstall it myself >> money is tight these days, can't afford to have it fixed in a shop....

2007 Accord Coupe.
 

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New 2003 Accord 6/6 owner, stepping up from my EJ6 Civic. Sapphire Blue (little bit of swirling, but 13 year old paint, and the sheet metal is still perfect), black leather, it's basically exactly what I wanted. Bought at just shy of 130k, did the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, 5W20 Pennzoil Platinum, PureONE filter, OEM air and cabin filters, Denso plugs, and OEM MTF. Tossed some cheap fog lights on it, yellow HIDs for the fogs. Even set up the garage door opener. After my Civic with no AC, no power steering, and having to swap and supercharge to get any kind of power, the Accord 6/6 is a HUGE improvement. It has it's quirks, though.

First off, the CEL came on a little while ago, P2195. Borrowed a friend's reader, pulled code, reset code, didn't turn back on. Couple weeks later, same code popped up again. Had it pulled at Advance, they wouldn't reset it, but after a hard 2nd gear pull, it turned itself off. Alright, whatever. Week later, on again, same code. Said **** it, bought a new Bosch wideband, installed, CEL went off. Thought I had it fixed, and then it came back on today. Pulled code, and boom, P2195 again. Searched, and found7 sy272004's TSB link. Is there anything else I should look at before diving into trying to get the dealership to do the TSB work without charging me an arm and a leg? Freeze frame data:

Fuel Sys 1: OL
Fuel Sys 2: OL
Calc load (%): 56.1
ECT(*F): 80.6
STFT B1: 0.0
LTFT B1: 0.8
STFT B2: 0.0
LTFT B2: -3.9
MAP(inHg): 16.8
RPM: 1067
Speed: 0
Spark Adv: -1.0
IAT: 77*F
TPS(%): 18.8
Rel TPS(%): 9.4

This was right at first start of the day, engine cool, and the CEL came on immediately after starting. I hadn't touched the gas pedal, so the TPS numbers confuse me, but I don't know if that's relevant at all. So, anything else seem out of line, or should I go ahead and call the zone office and start the TSB repair process?

Next question, my windows are kind of...derpy. The driver window has been working without problems until today, when it would roll itself back down after I told it to roll up. It did it a few times, then it rolled up and stayed up. The passenger window, however, goes pants-on-head-retarded sometimes. It seems more common when it rains. I'll press the button, and it won't move. Passenger presses their button, still doesn't move. After sometimes 2 seconds, never longer than a minute, you can hear a relay clicking noise, and then the window works just fine, until it decides to act up again. I don't even know where to start in trying to figure that out. Anyone had anything similar, or can anyone point me in a direction to start? I'm comfortable with a voltmeter, and with the cluster that is power door relays (converted my old Civic to power windows without using an OEM harness), I just don't even know where step 1 would be with this car.

Third and finally, after I fix the actual problems, I want to do a little bit of aftermarket without drawing too much unwanted attention from cops or thieves. I'm looking at Llumar window tint (AIR 90 windshield, Ceramic 40% rear, 70% front), Tein Street Advance suspension, and either XLR8 or RV6 long tube J pipe. Smart? Dumb? Since I'll be leaving the pre-cats alone, I won't run into any issues running a long tube without that cat, will I? Or would I be better served keeping the stock J pipe, and getting pre-cat deletes? I've always thought Tein was good hardware, but is the price tag a "too good to be true" thing, or am I over-analyzing?

With my Civic, I knew everything I needed to just from working on it for so long, but the Accord is a new world for me, and I'm liking it so far. If I should be making my own thread, just...poke me with a stick or something, and I'll un**** myself :p
 

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accord vs IS300

Quick question here guys.

I'm new car shopping and have narrowed my search to the 7th gen accord (obviously) and a 01-05 Lexus IS300. I haven't driven either yet, planning on doing that this weekend. Was just curious if anyone had any (non biased hopefully) opinions on one versus the other. My own research has led me to the following conclusions however they may be wrong:

-Lexus will is more reliable
-Lexus will handle better
-Honda faster in straight line
-Honda much more interior room
-Honda better gas mileage

Has anyone driven both and compare the fun factor? Also how cramped is the Lexus? I'm 6' 200 pounds and like to workout so I'm pretty wide in the back and shoulders.

Thanks guys!
 

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Mr. Detail
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Third and finally, after I fix the actual problems, I want to do a little bit of aftermarket without drawing too much unwanted attention from cops or thieves. I'm looking at Llumar window tint (AIR 90 windshield, Ceramic 40% rear, 70% front), Tein Street Advance suspension, and either XLR8 or RV6 long tube J pipe. Smart? Dumb? Since I'll be leaving the pre-cats alone, I won't run into any issues running a long tube without that cat, will I? Or would I be better served keeping the stock J pipe, and getting pre-cat deletes? I've always thought Tein was good hardware, but is the price tag a "too good to be true" thing, or am I over-analyzing?

With my Civic, I knew everything I needed to just from working on it for so long, but the Accord is a new world for me, and I'm liking it so far. If I should be making my own thread, just...poke me with a stick or something, and I'll un**** myself :p
Tint is always a good idea. I have the XLR8 v2 J-pipe on my car and the improvement was noticeable especially in the midrange. Zero issues with CEL's with it. Precat deletes make power but at the expense of rasp unless you add another resonator. Plus if your state does emissions testings on rollers (here they just go by codes) or does a visual inspection you probably won't pass with deletes.
 

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Quick question here guys.

I'm new car shopping and have narrowed my search to the 7th gen accord (obviously) and a 01-05 Lexus IS300. I haven't driven either yet, planning on doing that this weekend. Was just curious if anyone had any (non biased hopefully) opinions on one versus the other. My own research has led me to the following conclusions however they may be wrong:

-Lexus will is more reliable
-Lexus will handle better
-Honda faster in straight line
-Honda much more interior room
-Honda better gas mileage

Has anyone driven both and compare the fun factor? Also how cramped is the Lexus? I'm 6' 200 pounds and like to workout so I'm pretty wide in the back and shoulders.

Thanks guys!
You've basically summed it up. I think the handling will be closer than you think. Also, the is 300 is kinda tough to find in a manual.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk
 

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Hello,

Did a search on starters and this came up.

In the past few weeks or so, the car has struggled to start. There would times where the car would start perfectly, and then would be times when the car would struggle. By struggle I mean, it would turn but stall out as if there wasn't enough juice to crank it up.

When it loses power and stalls out, I would remove the key and retry; each time holding the turned key a tad longer to get it going.

I noticed this issue during the morning and after work. I just cleaned the battery terminal today, so we'll see. I would hate for the car to stall out somewhere.

Any ideas? I just changed the battery about 1 1/2 years ago. The battery is from wal-mart and has a 2014 stamp.

Thanks.
 

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Calm like a bomb
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Map Lights are being stupid

Got a strange one here.

The map lights (up front in the homelink/sunglasses holder) work/don't work. When I open my door the lights will not come on (yes I checked the bulbs, thanks for asking). They did for a while then stopped so I did the first logical step when an electrical issue arises, I hit it a few times with my hand, and BOOM! They started working again! Then after a while they stopped and I started having the same problem with the dome light (behind the sunroof) Obviously I've tried toggling the switch from DOOR/OFF and back, no luck. When I push the lens cover they turn on manually no problem. When I open the door the courtesy lights still come on (in the door pockets by the door jamb). I've had the assembly apart a few times and all the connections are in good shape. I cant get my tester tool in there because the ground lead is too short to find a proper ground and I don't want to fry the sumbich. Anyone else have/had this problem? I know it's pretty minor but I like things to all be working at 100%.
 

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Hello,

Did a search on starters and this came up.

In the past few weeks or so, the car has struggled to start. There would times where the car would start perfectly, and then would be times when the car would struggle. By struggle I mean, it would turn but stall out as if there wasn't enough juice to crank it up.

When it loses power and stalls out, I would remove the key and retry; each time holding the turned key a tad longer to get it going.

I noticed this issue during the morning and after work. I just cleaned the battery terminal today, so we'll see. I would hate for the car to stall out somewhere.

Any ideas? I just changed the battery about 1 1/2 years ago. The battery is from wal-mart and has a 2014 stamp.

Thanks.
I noticed that my CD unit going crap, and I dunno if this is part of it. Again, I notice weak starts, but normal starts as well. I took the car for a check and they couldn't find anything. I dunno if it's battery or starter or some other electrical issue. Could it be fuse related? ughh..
 

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Went ahead w/ the starter replacement process as changing the battery didn't do anything.

I'm wondering if there's anything else I should do w/ the intake mani somewhat out of the way. Thanks
 

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Bump help for starter.

Car just wouldn't crank up, sounded like it was struggling. Hopefully changing the starter does the trick.

You guys went OEM rebuild or AUTO ZONE? thanks
 

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Hey guys I was just wondering what is a good price range to have some one do a basic retrofit with hids and blacked out on the inside? thanks for the help in advance.
I did my retro fit on my accord for around 150 or so. I bought the Bi-xenon ACME H1 Standard and they work great!I wouldn't compare them to a much more expensive brand but they're definitely a lot better than the oem reflectors
 

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What is a good lowering spring and shock combination for a 2007 sedan. I want to drop it 2" all the way around. Don't see myself adjusting it after install so I think coilovers not really what I need.

Factory 17" wheels.
I have the Eibach sportline lowering springs with 17" tl wheels. It's about a 2 inch drop or so but it's nothing too aggressive and still looks good.
 

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have a 03 accord v6 misfiring on all cylinders after a motor swap, changed my spark plugs, changed coil packs, filled up with 93 octane from shells, a bottle of injector cleaner and still misfiring on all cylinders, anyone have any ideas of what i should try to do next?

also i did a compression test and it came out mint, no big differences in compression. before the motor swap i had no fuel issues but who knows, I'm thinking possibly clogged injectors.
 

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have a 03 accord v6 misfiring on all cylinders after a motor swap, changed my spark plugs, changed coil packs, filled up with 93 octane from shells, a bottle of injector cleaner and still misfiring on all cylinders, anyone have any ideas of what i should try to do next?

also i did a compression test and it came out mint, no big differences in compression. before the motor swap i had no fuel issues but who knows, I'm thinking possibly clogged injectors.
What motor did you swap in? Another J30A5?
 
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