Accord V6 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Vimal (vee-mall)
Joined
·
4,418 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
hey guys,

was wondering if you could help me out here.

today i just installed my ipod into my car using the HON98-AUX auxillary converter.

i also installed a second hidden 12V socket which sits under the armrest. anyways, when i pluged everything in and turned the ipod on, out of nowhere this really wierd whinning sound comes up and as i step on the gas more (more rpms) the whinning gets louder and slightly higher pitch. wierd thing is that it only happens when the ipod is on, when its off, the whine is gone.

could this be caused my improper grounding somewhere? i had to ground 2 things, the auxillary converter and the new 12V socket.

any help would be useful because im baffled, i cant even tell where the sound is coming from.
 

·
clean and simple
Joined
·
907 Posts
hey thats wierd, i hear this whining when i hit the accelerator as i am driving, only started to happen after i installed the v6p ground kit and the aem v2 and the helix... what should i do?
 

·
Vimal (vee-mall)
Joined
·
4,418 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
ok, i checked the alternator, that was NOT it. i changed both grounding spots to better ones, i think. for the HON98-AUX i grounded to one of the bolts behind the center console where the radio sits, that spot has to be a good ground because that single bolt has about 4 other black wires connected to it. i changed the ground for the 12V adapter too and still no change.


but i did figure out where the sounds are coming from, THE SPEAKERS. when i crank the volume up and push pause on the ipod, i can totally hear it, the louder i make the Headunit the louder the whine/buzz sound. and when i drive it gets louder.

if i can i'll take a video of the sound so you can hear it.

what else could you guys possible recommend? could the speakers be improperly grounded? i havent touched those. but that wouldnt make sense because this sound on happens on the new AUX line, when i go to the radio or the CD player, no whine.

i already have a V6P ground wire kit too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
do you have a amp. or is it factory speakers. I had this problem in an older car and I bought what they call a ground loop isolator and plugged it into the rca cables. It solved the problem. But if no amp I am stumped
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
PS It is usually caused from a power wire being run to close or overlapping a speaker wire. You may want to check that no power wires are running to close to the speaker wires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
Check where you have the auxilliary unit mounted. Is it close to the computer in the center console? If so move it around and see if you are still getting a whine.
Also try using one of the other power adapters to see if you still get whine from those alternatives.
Finally try the ground loop adapter. Some aftermarket equipment is not qute up to par for use in a car. Example, the XM SkyFi units. Most people have to use a GL adapter for these because of the way the unit is designed. The RCA outputs have grounds that are "isolated", per se, from the units electronics and cause nasty GL interference a lot of the time.
 

·
Vimal (vee-mall)
Joined
·
4,418 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
i have the auxillary unit stuck on one of the air ducts a little above the radio. i have RCA wires running from the aux unit down the back, next to the SRS box thing which is at the base of the storage compartment and to the right side of the shifter and passed the ebrake where that RCA cable turns into a standard headphone jack which is plugged into the Belkin auto kit adapter which in turn is connected to the bottom of the ipod.


oh and no, i do not have an amp or any aftermarket stereo equipment. unless the previous owner installed aftermarket speakers in the car but i dont know about that.
 

·
Vimal (vee-mall)
Joined
·
4,418 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
oh and just so you guys know how i did it (incase there's a flaw in the way i did it) i followed this guy's tutorial...

http://www.jeffbowden.com/iPod/ipod_install.html

these are the parts that I used in my installation:

-HON98-AUX auxillary input converter


-Belkin Y-audio 7ft cable


-Belkin Auto kit for ipod w/ dock connector


-Radio Shack 12V Car power adapter outlet


and of course the ipod.
 

·
Vimal (vee-mall)
Joined
·
4,418 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
ok, here's some pics with labels and a sound clip.

Video: http://rapidshare.de/files/3223080/MVI_0028.AVI.html




anyways, after some experimenting, i now think the cause of this problem is the Belkin auto kit charger w/ dock connector. reason i think it's this is because i plugged it into both the car's original socket and the new socket i wired in and it has the same problem, when i take the dock connecter out and plug the 1/8" mini jack directly into the ipod (letting the ipod use it's own power instead of being charged by the car) everything works perfect, no sounds.. nothing.

im going to send an email to Belkin to see if they know why this is happening and to see if i can get a replacement incase this one is defective.
 

·
Out of my Mind, Somewhere
Joined
·
2,500 Posts
KnightRyder said:
hey guys,

was wondering if you could help me out here.

today i just installed my ipod into my car using the HON98-AUX auxillary converter.

i also installed a second hidden 12V socket which sits under the armrest. anyways, when i pluged everything in and turned the ipod on, out of nowhere this really wierd whinning sound comes up and as i step on the gas more (more rpms) the whinning gets louder and slightly higher pitch. wierd thing is that it only happens when the ipod is on, when its off, the whine is gone.

could this be caused my improper grounding somewhere? i had to ground 2 things, the auxillary converter and the new 12V socket.

any help would be useful because im baffled, i cant even tell where the sound is coming from.
Here is what George typed up but I could not send to you via PM too big:

OK,

All of your engine noise problems are caused by one of two problems.

Ground Loops or E.M.I ( Electro-Magnetic-Interface ) problems.

Ground Loops:

Electronic circuits are simply a power source connected to device or load (electronic equipment). In order for the

circuit to operate, voltage from the power source (in mobile electronics that source is the vehicles battery) is sent through wires to the

electronic device or equipment. The device will still not work unless a return wire is connected from the devices "ground" connection

to the power sources "ground" connection or terminal which will complete the circuit path allowing the equipment or device to work.

Car batteries have a thick or heavy gauge battery cable connected to the (+) positive terminal or

battery post that supplies the vehicles electrical system with power. What most people do not see is a similar heavy gauge power wire

connected to the batteries (-) negative terminal or battery post. This cable usually connects to the vehicles alternator (-) negative

terminal or contact then it is bolted to the metal frame of the vehicle itself. Since the alternators rpms are controled by the reving of the motor, as output increases so does the electrical currents.

In doing this, the metal frame of the vehicle is now the electric "ground" of the vehicle. A "ground" is simply another word for the (-) negative return path back to the power supplies

(vehicles battery) (-) negative terminal or battery post. Your frame is used because it reduces the wire run through the

electrical system in half. The total circuit now only has to run (+) positive voltage wires to components while the (-) negative

ground wires can simply be screwed directly to a nearby metal part of the vehicles body frame. This way the (-) negative ground return

to the battery is carried by the vehicles metal frame, to the heavy gauge battery cable bolted to the frame which will return the (-)

negative ground back to the battery - completing the circuit necessary to make the equipment run.

Ground loops are usually caused when the (-) negative ground returning to the battery has a high resistance, or the wire or

metal frame used to send the (-) negative ground is not the best path and the (-) negative ground has to fight to return back to

the battery.


I would look there first:.

This problem can happen when you install a new device and the wiring is not capable of handling the additional current. Ground loops will mess with the radio. Since the radio makes noise ( in the range of 10 hertz up to 20 kilo-hertz.....also the range of human hearing... ), the ground loop ( electrical "noise" from the alternator), will be "heard" through the radio.


Solution:

The radio ground wire in the car can handle the power requirements of the manufactures radio probably 4 or 5 amps of power from the battery.

The ground wire in the dash wire harness is big enough to handle this small power consumption but it might not be big enough to handle the aditional current from the IPOD.

In a nut shell, you have too small (thin) of a ground wire.


HOW to Correct it

Connect the new devices ground wire directly to the metal of the vehicles frame and avoid using the original radios ground wire in the vehicles radio wire harness.



I doubt you have EMI problems but this is good information to have.....




EMI Noises:

As voltage runs through wires, an electric field is generated around the wire. This magnetic field surround ALL wires that have voltage running

through them. Usually the thicker the wire, the more current that wire can handle. Many auto makers, without a

care to the radio system, run power wires above, below, and around the stereo. These power wires are used the air conditioner, hazard switch, cigarette lighter, and other accessories to operate. These wires shoot out magnetic waves in all directions. the magnetic wave will be picked up by other power wires as well as audio cables such as RCA cables. Now other wires are being affected by a single wires electromagnetic field. Some of the wires affected may be the stereos (+) 12 Volt Battery and Ignition wires and even wires INSIDE the radio.

EM I actualy caused a U.S. Naval Air craft carrier to launch a missle from a fighter plane on the deck of the ship causing major damage.

IF YOU HAD THIS YOU WOULD HEAR NOT ONLY WINES BUT CLICKING.



Reroute power wires:

You could try cutting both the (+) 12 Volt Battery and Ignition wires and run new wires to the fuse box

or other reliable source. This requires rerouting the wires away from potential EMI "hot spots" around the electronics of the

dash You also could reflect it back by wrapping heavy duty foil arou the radio. It blocks the fields radiating outward.

Its the same as coaxle cable that has the inner alluminum mesh.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
go to radio shack and buy a ground loop isolator. Problem solved. SHould be around 20 bucks or so it attaches to the rca cables and then to the rcas again. It will fix the problem almost 90% of the time.
 

·
Vimal (vee-mall)
Joined
·
4,418 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
ok, i installed the Ground loop isolator and the noise has significantly decreased. before i used to be able to hear the noise over the music now i can only hear it if i pause the ipod and am at high volume (over 50%).

so i'd say the problem is fixed so a certain extent. i can at least listen to the music now without any noise, but technically the noise is still there, just not as loud anymore.
 

·
constantly in pursuit
Joined
·
4,250 Posts
try moving the 1/8th inch to rca cord away from those power lines! thats where you'll get the EMI. in the 2nd and 3rd pic, you've got the signal wire right next to power wires, which will give you noice. try routing it another way
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
"most" of the time moving speaker/RCA wires away from power wires will not solve anything noise related. Remember your whole car is one big power wire, as noted by TooHypper. The car's frame is the pathway for the ground side of all the powered items in your car. Unless you can magically suspend all your speaker and RCA cables in the air, they are going to be near power sources.
Personally, I think you should try a different iPod adapter to see if that helps and/or use just the iPod without the recharging unit if the noise is still that bothersome to you.
 

·
Vimal (vee-mall)
Joined
·
4,418 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
i would try another charger but the problem is that Belkin is the only company that makes one with the Line-out feature. the reason this is a great charger is because i only have to connect 1 thing to the ipod, the dock conncetor which charges the ipod AND sends the sound through the charger, into the 1/8" jack which is plugged into the charger and up to the radio.

but i think you're right, the ONLY place where the "sound" wire and the "power" wire get close together is INSIDE the Belkin adapter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,136 Posts
Kind of off topic but how does the ipod sound hooked up to the car compared to like a good ol' stock CD player? Is the FM transmitter better than the cassette thingy or a custom setup the best?

Need some opinions b/c o have soo many songs on my comp. and id love to have a lil organized thing like an ipod for the car but im worried about :

Sound Quality
Getting it Jacked
If something better than iPod is coming out soon

Im happy with my cds but i just want to have less clutter.

Thank You
 

·
Vimal (vee-mall)
Joined
·
4,418 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
It actually sounds BETTER than the CD player because im the kind of guy who loves bass yet im stuck with a stock stereo. The ipod has an EQ setup so i put it on Bass Booster and it give my cars stock stereo sooo much more "bump" than the CD player can. And i already ahve the dial for the bass on full on the HU.

The FM transmitters are total crap and the cassette things aren't very good either. for the best quality, i would recommend that you do the custom setup like mine using the Auxillary input converter. But be aware that the Aux.converter DOES cost more for the 7th gen accords, why? i dont know. The only thing about putting the ipod in the car is that you cant control it's functions using the car's controls, only Volume is controlable.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top