TRUE CLS6 SWAP - 6th Gen Accord 2023

it’s 2023. I have done millions of research regarding the 6th gen accord 6 speed swap. All the well written forums that currently exist are both extremely outdated and don’t usually contain a true swap (via the swap module, or using the non-LSD trans), perhaps just someone swapping a 6 speed into their 7th gen chassis, or god forbid those people to admitting they paid a shop to do it .
I will show photos of progress and keep updating as I go.. there is so much that people don’t mention. I won’t be adding a parts list because they’re literally everywhere but I will talk about each major swap component and what it took to get it to fit.. STAY TUNED !



1. Before the swap J30a1 stock engine with 4 speed automatic transmission.



2. Acura CL-Type S shifter has 4 bolts, one you remove the auto shifter it WILL fit without any modification. Obviously before the assembly is bolted down you'll run both shift cables through the hole where the auto shifter once ran, leading to the top of the transmission versus the bottom.



3. Next came the clutch pedal..(whew). In my CG1 there indeed were provisions for where the pedal/master cylinder should go. Space wasn’t very limited believe it or not, also with a good hammer drill and drill bits I made quick work of the firewall and also the hole above where the reinforcement goes. I also used 3/8 by 1/2inch spacers from Home Depot (about 5 bucks for 2) to rectify the strength. Just for your information clutch pedal / master cylinder combinations from ANY 90's will work but they have to match. For example, you can use 90-97 Accord clutch pedal/master cylinder together, or 98-02 style pedal/master cylinder. You cannot mix and match because the brackets for the pedals are different lengths and the master cylinder will appear to be way too long or way too short. The final product is not depicted, but instead of swapping the brake pedal assembly I instead trimmed the factory auto pedal to accommodate for the new spacing.



4. In my opinion, probably the most important component to the swap are the transmission mounts. Once you remove the 4 14mm nuts holding in the stock automatic transmission mounts (2 per mount), you will be able to sit these in place no problem, without modification. It is literally impossible to sit them in the wrong spot/orientation as the length between the studs are different and have slight different elevations that have similar curvature to the subframe. The reason why I feel these are the most important pieces is because right now there are no aftermarket options available for these mounts, and they are totally discontinued from Acura. In addition to that, you'll need these mounts to even SIT a CLS or 7th gen V6 transmission into your CG. I would recommend sourcing these first. Of course there is the transmission "beam" you use to connect these mounts to the transmission, but in this day and age we can go to P2R and grab a billet one for about 150 bucks.



5. Of course, there is the transmission itself. Depicted is an Acura CL-S 6 speed with LSD (coded "C5") bolted to my J35a4, which I have modified to accept the standard components (I have a write up on how to do that also). The transmission will bolt up directly to any 1st generation style J series engine without modification, as they (obviously) share the same bell housing shape. Also, if you see closely I was able to use the stock 6th gen half shaft from the automatic transmission as well.



6. I WILL be changing this photo later to a cleaner one, but I am just trying to keep frequent updates. Once the engine and transmission are together, go ahead and purchase yourself some new 6th gen accord v6 chassis mounts and drop it in (your existing mounts will work but just for good measure). I found it more practical to get the motor to sit on the front and rear mounts, then install the passenger side, and finally, with the beam already on the transmission, INSTALL THE TWO TRANSMISSION MOUNTS LAST! The engine wiring harness itself fits perfectly into our chassis , I found it much easier to first send the 2 plug side into the firewall, and continue routing it from engine to the manual transmission side. The harness will totally fit every plug on the engine and transmission, there’s even two “giant” plugs that fit the stock accord ones on the body. For the shift linkage it should have been ran through the hole where the auto shift cable used to be and run to the top of the transmission, the manual shift cables fit perfectly into the bracket as intended, I had to remove some square damper thing located next to the rear mount and it was no problem .



7. This is how she sits currently. It appears much taller in real life as I’m using the Honda Pilot intake manifold spacer and Taylor Helix throttle body spacer (now discontinued) . Despite the bolt-ons believe it or not, I didn’t have to modify the harness in any way for the plugs to reach. Now, as far as accessories, I was able to re-utilize the stock J30 power steering pump as both motors have similar provisions, same with the alternator (although its not in this picture). The throttle body used is the stock J30 one as well, which I preferred because one, (to my surprise) it was the same diameter as the opening to the J35 intake, secondly the plugs on it accommodated perfectly for the CLS harness. Important note, I would recommend running a new J30 PCV valve as it has an angle tilted upwards, the J35 one is 90 degrees and just doesn't fit (my set up) as well



8. Here I have integrated the CLS “E” plug with the Accord chassis “A” plug. Using the ProDemand software I was able to figure out which wires matched between the two different harnesses to get things like OBDII port, MIL, immobilizer light, cooling fans, AC compressor clutch, etc. to function properly. There’s a whole misconception about the radio, heat not working without this part but that’s entirely not true. Your radio , power seats and clock will work without this step, however integrating the harnesses gain you full functionality, and obviously the ease of diagnosing any problems you may have. There are conversion harnesses available to make the “A” clip integrate perfectly into the “E” port but you don’t need to spend that money. If done correctly there should be like 2 wires left on the “A” side and like 3 left on the “E” side, unless you choose to run wires all the way to the corresponding components.

WRITE UP CURRENTLY IN PROGRESS