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Discussion Starter #1
Hi! First of all, I am a newbie to all of this. I've scoured the forums/youtube/google for these exact questions but can only find fragmented answers to them, so I thought it easier to simply ask the community in one large post to consolidate everything for both myself and the others in my situation. The research I've done has been gathered within the past month and I'll do my absolute best not to sound like a total idiot.

So, to start off I purchased my Honda Accord 3.0 6MT just over a month ago, it's got a 196k on it and was previously owned by a "mechanic" which is why I had no problem with the mileage on it. I've replaced a significant amount of things on it since to get it driveable/trustworthy on the road again.

Right now I'm looking at performance upgrades as I've found the J series is quite fun to wrench with. However, with the j30a4 I've found a lot of people saying it's not even worth upgrading, so the first question is exactly that. Is it?
Second, would I get a better cost/gain ratio from a simple supercharger/turbo install?

Other questions are about the compatibility/efficacy of the swaps/mods available.
Would the j35 or j37 intake manifold be better? I see a ton of j35 intake swaps, but why? From what I've been able to find the j37 is better flowing, just rarer to find in junkyards. Would I need anything past the butterfly valve and new TB from said j37 for the intake swap? And I've heard rev hang can be an issue, does the P2R Spacer fix that issue entirely?
Truly what are the best heads to put onto the j30? Do others not swap the j35/j37 heads due to compatibility issues or they lack the same performance figures?

Then comes the intake/exhaust.
I'd love to grab a cold AI, but I'm unable to find one for the Accord that is more than a couple inches longer than a short ram AI, so is there genuinely a difference in them?
For intake, I read on MyWikiMotors.com (Honda J30A engine | Specs, tuning, troubleshooting and oil) post about upgrading that you should put the j32a2 intake/exhaust system on, can anyone explain WHY? Should I do so or have others found a better solution, whether that be aftermarket or OEM?

Then for the final question off the top of my head, EXHAUSTS. I've seen it suggested a few times to get a 2.5-3 inch exhaust, but I'm a complete newb to that **** and don't understand the measurements from the headers to the rest of it. What would actually work on the j32/whatever headers are best for the build I'm going for? And don't say Magnaflow or Greddy, I'm not dropping 1k on a damn exhaust until I've really got some dough set aside. Would frankensteining different exhaust parts be best? Just trying to stay under the 5/600 dollar range for one.

Of course if these have been answered, please just link me to them :) I really appreciate anyone who can help, this such a great community and I hope to help redistribute any knowledge or help I get back!
 

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Mr. Detail
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There are no headers available, the exhaust manifolds are cast into the heads. The stock catback flows well enough, biggest choke points are the main catalytic converters and the J-pipe. You can swap out for a aftermarket long tube J-pipe (I have the XLR8 v2) that eliminates the 3rd cat. Won't cause a check engine light so unless they do a visual emission inspection in your state, you'll pass without the 3rd cat. Noticeable midrange torque gains. And since it doesn't make your car louder, it isn't like your ears are tricking your butt dyno. For the stock catback, remove the mid muffler and replace the OEM resonator with a Dynomax or Magnaflow resonator. No real gains but it will sound better. And absolutely zero drone or rasp when combined with the J-pipe.

The pre-cat deletes or high flow cats will help mostly on top end. I believe the way the O2 bung is situated you normally won't get a CEL but you definitely won't pass a visual inspection. The downside is smelly exhaust and rasp. You'd likely have to add an additional resonator to kill it.

AEM has the v2 cold air intake for our cars.

The TL Type S anti-roll bars bolt right up to our cars and are reasonably inexpensive. Makes a noticeable reduction in body roll.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you! Sorry for the late response, been working on it in my spare time and dealing with the next steps in restoring it properly. I shall be looking into the pre-cat deletes very shortly along with the J-pipe, that is if I end up keeping this project :)
Also I believe the previous owner already installed the Type S anti roll bars, but I gotta double check and get back to you on that.
 

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Registered
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There are no headers available, the exhaust manifolds are cast into the heads. The stock catback flows well enough, biggest choke points are the main catalytic converters and the J-pipe. You can swap out for a aftermarket long tube J-pipe (I have the XLR8 v2) that eliminates the 3rd cat. Won't cause a check engine light so unless they do a visual emission inspection in your state, you'll pass without the 3rd cat. Noticeable midrange torque gains. And since it doesn't make your car louder, it isn't like your ears are tricking your butt dyno. For the stock catback, remove the mid muffler and replace the OEM resonator with a Dynomax or Magnaflow resonator. No real gains but it will sound better. And absolutely zero drone or rasp when combined with the J-pipe.

The pre-cat deletes or high flow cats will help mostly on top end. I believe the way the O2 bung is situated you normally won't get a CEL but you definitely won't pass a visual inspection. The downside is smelly exhaust and rasp. You'd likely have to add an additional resonator to kill it.

AEM has the v2 cold air intake for our cars.

The TL Type S anti-roll bars bolt right up to our cars and are reasonably inexpensive. Makes a noticeable reduction in body roll.
What about the resonator delete?... shouldn't i make more midrange power with this delete?..and finally does the Acura TL anti roll bar mount to my Accords firewall?
 
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