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Discussion Starter #1
Ever since I pulled my car off the lot, the disc's have always jumped. Went for an oil change last week and they told me they were spotted blue due to abuse and were not cover by warrenty.

Instead of fighting them and getting new ones, that will probably just do the same freaken thing, i'll get better ones.


Can anyone recommend some rotors that will not warp under heat, or that will elimiate the heat better? I don't really care if I have more stopping power, I just want rotors that are solid enough to take a little punishment every once in a while without having to change them everytime.
 

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distinctjay said:
Ever since I pulled my car off the lot, the disc's have always jumped. Went for an oil change last week and they told me they were spotted blue due to abuse and were not cover by warrenty.

Instead of fighting them and getting new ones, that will probably just do the same freaken thing, i'll get better ones.


Can anyone recommend some rotors that will not warp under heat, or that will elimiate the heat better? I don't really care if I have more stopping power, I just want rotors that are solid enough to take a little punishment every once in a while without having to change them everytime.
www.tirerack.com powerslots and hawk performance pads, brake (no pun intended) them in correctly, i love them way more stopping power and no steering wheel vibration, $516.00 shipped just my 2 cents
 

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Slotted rotors prong to warping more then blank rotors.

Want to have good brakes, get big brake kit. All other set up are just fiddling around of same thing.
 

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Smooth as Silk
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HONDA_99 said:
Slotted rotors prong to wrapping more then blank rotors.

Want to have good brakes, get big brake kit. All other set up are just fiddling around of same thing.

Not quite sure what that is saying above. Do you mean "prone to warping"? And if so, why is it that people recommend those rotors over the stock setup?
 

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Brembo cross drilled rotors work well in heat. Alot of people on this site have those.
 

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dymondawg said:
Not quite sure what that is saying above. Do you mean "prone to warping"? And if so, why is it that people recommend those rotors over the stock setup?
because they look cool (different then most others).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
HONDA_99 said:
because they look cool (different then most others).
I don't care about the looks.

Tirerack shows a few different models of powerslot rotors.

What do you mean by break them in right? If I buy a new set of rotors I don't want them to warp again, its so annoying stopping when the rotors are warp. :eek:
 
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dymondawg said:
Not quite sure what that is saying above. Do you mean "prone to warping"? And if so, why is it that people recommend those rotors over the stock setup?
because they brake better, the slots in the rotors give trapped gasses between the pad and rotor a place to escape giving better rotor to pad contact. im not sure if the slots in the rotors provide any cooling advatages though
 

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Man, after I come back from a mediumly hard drive, if I pour water on my brakes, it EXPLODES into steam and hissing. Highly stupid. I need better rotors.
 

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streetxdreamer said:
because they brake better, the slots in the rotors give trapped gasses between the pad and rotor a place to escape giving better rotor to pad contact. im not sure if the slots in the rotors provide any cooling advatages though
Remember guys, gases appear only when you going thru series of WOT's and hard braking after that, something like at autocross.
When you rolling down highway 70mph and then there is something happened that require you to stop immediately, there won't be any gases produced, you need to have two or three situations like that for gases to appear.

Slotted or cross drilled rotors that are same size as original rotors will not dissipate heat any better then stock, and why would they, they have same surface area.
 

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I was in the same situation as you. Rotors warped. Great time to upgrade :D

I went with Stoptech slotted on all 4 corners. Have them for about a year now and so far no problems.
 

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I just have Brembo blanks....if you want something that dissipates heat better than your OEM ones...just get ones that have MORE cooling fins....it's all about that....and maybe link like a hose thing that can lead cool air from the front of your car to the fron brakes ...haha...I dunno

but like one guy mentioned earlier...you sledom heat up your pads to the point where gases appear and you need THAT much heat dissipation from STREET driving...only auto-X-ing and something that requires you to literally go 70MPH brake HARD to 10MPH and again up to 70MPH and hard to 10MPH...do this about 6 times and your brakes will start SMOKING...

but you get my point...just call up Jessica from Performance Parts store....

4 Brembo blanks w/HAWK HPS pads (4) = $192

that was what I paid last summer when I got them....PM for more info on cheap brake stuff

oh yeah, for the popular POWERSLOTS along with some HAWK HPS pads....I can get them for roughly $340 from the same place...that was the price about a month ago because I called up Jessica b/c I am plannig on getting that set-up next time for my brakes...(been on this set of brakes for 18K now...and I work them hard)

and they also provide FREE shipping/handling, which is real nice :)
 

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i dont think you 6th geners understand how crappy the 7th gen OEM brakes are. there are A LOT of people here that have had warped rotors, time and time again. my rotors warped, i had them resurfaced, they warped again. it seems to be a big problem.

340 for all 4 rotors + pads is a smokin deal BTW... too bad i didn't know that way back when...
 

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Most likely I don't know how bad brakes on 7gen, I never drove it, but I had power slot rotor before and they did absolutely nothing to improve every day driving and braking. On top of that power slot rotors warped in two month with proper break-in and they were not abused in anyway.
To make matter worst, power slot rotors that I installed on my 94 accord, as same time as on 99, warped also in two month. And again they were properly broken-in and were not abused.
I also tried different brake pads and they all didn’t give much of advantage over stock brake pads, so started to experiment with different brake components that are available from Honda.

I learned that if I want more performance from brakes, I need to increase rotor size and increase clamping force on rotor.
 

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Why fool with stock size rotors?

Why would you fool around with the stock size rotors when you can bolt on the larger 11.8" rotors and calipers from the 99-03 TL/RL. It uses the 11.8" system that will bolt right on. Substitute the 2 pot calipers from the Legend and you have a great set of brakes.

To do the 2 pot system, get the entire caliper assemblies from the RL, then get just the caliper body for the Legend 2 pots. It all bolts together. Use the Legend pads (D503 pads number). I have this setup on my Coupe and it is way better than the stock brakes. Get some performance pads such as Cobalt Friction GT Sport, Axxis Ultimates or Hawk HP.

You may still warp these if you are really really hard on brakes, but it will take a lot longer.

BTW the Brembo setup on the new TL will also bolt up to your Accord.

I have a pic of my setup but can't figure out how to post it here...
 

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BWH13 said:
Why would you fool around with the stock size rotors when you can bolt on the larger 11.8" rotors and calipers from the 99-03 TL/RL. It uses the 11.8" system that will bolt right on. Substitute the 2 pot calipers from the Legend and you have a great set of brakes.

To do the 2 pot system, get the entire caliper assemblies from the RL, then get just the caliper body for the Legend 2 pots. It all bolts together. Use the Legend pads (D503 pads number). I have this setup on my Coupe and it is way better than the stock brakes. Get some performance pads such as Cobalt Friction GT Sport, Axxis Ultimates or Hawk HP.

You may still warp these if you are really really hard on brakes, but it will take a lot longer.

BTW the Brembo setup on the new TL will also bolt up to your Accord.

I have a pic of my setup but can't figure out how to post it here...

:iagree:

the reason why rotors warp, is due to UNEVEN cooling of the rotor. if the rotor cools down on one are vs the other its going to contract, and the other area wont and as a result the rotor warps. brakes that cool even faster are more prone to warping. ppl dumping water on brakes are asking for warping.

to prevent warping rarely keep the caliper clamped, or in the same area of the rotor for long. this means when you come to a stop try to roll a little ever 10 secs or so to allow the entire rotor to cool down, versus the area under the caliper to stay hot.

correct braking in really doesnt do anything to prevent warping, its only supposed to remove glaze from the rotors and to the larger extent the pads.

the only way to prevent warping is complete even temperature changes over the rotor.
 

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Actuall it's not uneven cooling, it's the lack of cooling . The rotor is a heat sink that is supposed to dissipate the heat enough to preven the pads from becoming ineffective at the higher temperatures. As pad materials have gotten better over the years the rotors should have gotten more efficient at moving the heat to the air, but they haven't. The air gap on the 11" and even the 11.8" rotors is very small, which doesn't allow as much air to move through the rotor. This is why they warp. The best way to prevent warping is to allow the brakes to cool down for 10 -15 minutes before you park the car. By stopping the car before the rotors cool, the pads now form a large hot spot, which can lead to excessive pads material transfer to the rotor, and to warping.

The aftermarket rotors may have an improved internal vane design to move more air through the rotor, this is why they don't warp as often.
OwAce said:
:iagree:

the reason why rotors warp, is due to UNEVEN cooling of the rotor. if the rotor cools down on one are vs the other its going to contract, and the other area wont and as a result the rotor warps. brakes that cool even faster are more prone to warping. ppl dumping water on brakes are asking for warping.

to prevent warping rarely keep the caliper clamped, or in the same area of the rotor for long. this means when you come to a stop try to roll a little ever 10 secs or so to allow the entire rotor to cool down, versus the area under the caliper to stay hot.

correct braking in really doesnt do anything to prevent warping, its only supposed to remove glaze from the rotors and to the larger extent the pads.

the only way to prevent warping is complete even temperature changes over the rotor.
 
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