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Hella Functional
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I've never thought a molded kit was a good idea for a daily driven car. If you bottom out, or if your kit comes into contact with any hard surface, the molded area tends to fracture and crack, and taking your paint with it. But then again, it's in the rear.

When i look at most of those molded body ktis at car shows, if you look REAL close (like the fenders etc) you can notice slight cracking,, or the beginning of cracking.
 

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It usually looks prety nice....But if you crack it or dont like it, you got alot of work head of you to fix it.... Id say just make it fit REAL nice... :)

E
 

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Butta
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837 Posts
ericspda said:
It usually looks prety nice....But if you crack it or dont like it, you got alot of work head of you to fix it.... Id say just make it fit REAL nice... :)

E

I agree....


But I have never seen a WW rear lip mounted, so it would be cool to see how it looks.
 

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v not some model, my girl
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5,806 Posts
i would say to mold it. if you use the right products to mold it you should have no problem with seperation between the lip and rear bumper especially if the lip is abs plastic, and in the tpo family. i have seen correct mold jobs hold up for over 3 years and still going. DV8 the ones you see cracking were most likely "molded" by smearing bondo in the seams, which is the WRONG way to do it. you can easily run into problems with cracking when you mold fiberglass to metal, (there is a right way to do it) its two different materials that arent meant to stay bonded together forever.
 

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99v6sedan said:
i would say to mold it. if you use the right products to mold it you should have no problem with seperation between the lip and rear bumper especially if the lip is abs plastic, and in the tpo family. i have seen correct mold jobs hold up for over 3 years and still going. DV8 the ones you see cracking were most likely "molded" by smearing bondo in the seams, which is the WRONG way to do it. you can easily run into problems with cracking when you mold fiberglass to metal, (there is a right way to do it) its two different materials that arent meant to stay bonded together forever.

I molded my WW W-type on my 94 Accord (Totalled). It was very nice, but the front cracks shortly afterward since it's my daily. The Rear held on good for years.

Molding it was very hard. I had to use special urethane molding and rivetting it A LOT.
 

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Texas Made to the Fullest
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603 Posts
I would say mold it. it will look clean as hell. you just have to make sure that it is held on very solid. urethane flexes too much and it may crack around dividing line of the bumper. with it being the back, it might not be that bad.
 

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LaLaLaLa
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4,852 Posts
99v6sedan said:
i would say to mold it. if you use the right products to mold it you should have no problem with seperation between the lip and rear bumper especially if the lip is abs plastic, and in the tpo family. i have seen correct mold jobs hold up for over 3 years and still going. DV8 the ones you see cracking were most likely "molded" by smearing bondo in the seams, which is the WRONG way to do it. you can easily run into problems with cracking when you mold fiberglass to metal, (there is a right way to do it) its two different materials that arent meant to stay bonded together forever.
what about w/polyurethane? the WW kit is poly urethane
 

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3,436 Posts
haha some local guy with a 6th gen coupe molded his ww rear lip and it loooked pretty clean. If memory serves correct, alphanumeric also did this as well but too bad he took down the pics on this forum
 

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v not some model, my girl
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stupidaznmunkey said:
what about w/polyurethane? the WW kit is poly urethane

yea you can mold poly as well...... i think its in the tpo family too.
 

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t|23v0|2 n00b t00n3|2
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3,572 Posts
is there really a space between? like open air? I thought the lip kits were supposed to be flush if you make em fit right, but you can still see the separate lines. is that what you meant by gap/space? the lines? oh and I can't tell what the WW rear connects to, is it like a rear lip where it goes under the stock rear bumper? also, someone please help me find a good price for the WW rear, cause I have yet to find one under $250 shipped.
 

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t|23v0|2 n00b t00n3|2
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I'd say don't mold it, because it still looks good not molded, and you never know if the person you'll eventually wanna sell it to will want it, so it'd be a lot easier to take off the unmolded lip kit.
 

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t|23v0|2 n00b t00n3|2
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3,572 Posts
btw how does the WW rear go on b/c it's not really an underspoiler like the OEM kit, is the upper part of it much thinner and go over the stock rear bumper? because thats what it looks like it does. oh and do you have to lower your mufflers to make it work?
 
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