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The_Tofu_Shop said:
omg. believe me please. go read my mod list in my sig.

all those mods, and my car is still too slow for me. if you want real power, get a Supercharger.
That is true, But these mods don't add HP they free up HP. They keep the engine cooler thus keeping HP up under hotter conditions.
Also these mods were talking about here cost no more then a few hundred dollars,
were as the S/C cost's over 3000. So IMO these are a good mod to start with, you can always buy the S/C later and these mods will be even more help then.

So insted of saying the most expensive mods first, lets help out with some less expensive mods. I don't know about you, But alot of members on here don't have the cash to throw down on a S/C.
 
00cpekid said:
thanks, i really appreciate the help lxaccord... everyone keeps stating "get the unichip" so i figured it might be beneficial... sorry off subject but hey would you people reccomend going with 17's or 18's looking at all aspects such as performance wise would their actually be a significant loss to where i'll be able to tell if i go with 18's or should i go with 17's and just lower it which will not cover the wheel gap entirely... either way i go i am lowering.. any help is appreciated...what experiences have you all had with your rims, what there a "great" loss going with 18's...
The bigger the wheel, the more it weighs, and the more your performance is decreased -> That's simple rotational mechanics and properties of inertia. Certain wheel manufacturers build wheels which are incredibly strong while super lightweight... those are ideal, but cost an @ss-ton (but would allow you to run bigger wheels without the weight penalties).

"looking at all aspects such as performance wise"?

What purpose is your car supposed to serve? If you're thinking about going to the track and destroying all opposition... good luck. The SRT-4 can skool the AV6.

I think a lot of other AV6ers would agree that performance cannot be the only influence on your mod decisions... because in that case you're wasting your money. The AV6 is a sweet ride... but you could get oodles more performance out of a '94 240SX. And it would be a standard... AND it would be RWD.

Since you haven't really searched through the forums for answers for all these performance mods... have you searched and read about the transmission deficiencies? That might change your mind about turning your accord into a street racer ;)
 
GT_Arun said:
The bigger the wheel, the more it weighs, and the more your performance is decreased -> That's simple rotational mechanics and properties of inertia. Certain wheel manufacturers build wheels which are incredibly strong while super lightweight... those are ideal, but cost an @ss-ton (but would allow you to run bigger wheels without the weight penalties).

"looking at all aspects such as performance wise"?

What purpose is your car supposed to serve? If you're thinking about going to the track and destroying all opposition... good luck. The SRT-4 can skool the AV6.

I think a lot of other AV6ers would agree that performance cannot be the only influence on your mod decisions... because in that case you're wasting your money. The AV6 is a sweet ride... but you could get oodles more performance out of a '94 240SX. And it would be a standard... AND it would be RWD.

Since you haven't really searched through the forums for answers for all these performance mods... have you searched and read about the transmission deficiencies? That might change your mind about turning your accord into a street racer ;)
All true but my accord would school a neon on accident and safety standards. Dont expect to walk away from a high speed collision in a neon.
 
GT_Arun said:
The bigger the wheel, the more it weighs, and the more your performance is decreased -> That's simple rotational mechanics and properties of inertia. Certain wheel manufacturers build wheels which are incredibly strong while super lightweight... those are ideal, but cost an @ss-ton (but would allow you to run bigger wheels without the weight penalties).

"looking at all aspects such as performance wise"?

What purpose is your car supposed to serve? If you're thinking about going to the track and destroying all opposition... good luck. The SRT-4 can skool the AV6.

I think a lot of other AV6ers would agree that performance cannot be the only influence on your mod decisions... because in that case you're wasting your money. The AV6 is a sweet ride... but you could get oodles more performance out of a '94 240SX. And it would be a standard... AND it would be RWD.

Since you haven't really searched through the forums for answers for all these performance mods... have you searched and read about the transmission deficiencies? That might change your mind about turning your accord into a street racer ;)
I don't agree!! You must not have seen whats coming out for our cars? i.e. Turbo and new tranny. Don't count the AV6 out just yet.
 
platinum said:
I don't agree!! You must not have seen whats coming out for our cars? i.e. Turbo and new tranny. Don't count the AV6 out just yet.

LOL. Platinum and Driven, I'm not selling out... I still LOOOOOVE my car ;) And they ride and look better than POS Neons (most domestics cars IMO)... but while I believe it's worth it to tweak them for better performance... it's not REALLY worth transforming into a high powered car b/c its FWD. And the tranny... having a tranny that wouldn't fail from high power output would be great... but if you have that much power, then I really would want a stick again. This is all personal opinion... but do you think its worth it to drop $5k on a tranny, $5k on a turbo kit... and then be limited to straight line racing?
 
GT_Arun said:
LOL. Platinum and Driven, I'm not selling out... I still LOOOOOVE my car ;) And they ride and look better than POS Neons (most domestics cars IMO)... but while I believe it's worth it to tweak them for better performance... it's not REALLY worth transforming into a high powered car b/c its FWD. And the tranny... having a tranny that wouldn't fail from high power output would be great... but if you have that much power, then I really would want a stick again. This is all personal opinion... but do you think its worth it to drop $5k on a tranny, $5k on a turbo kit... and then be limited to straight line racing?

For one the Turbo and tranny won't be $5000 ea. I can almost garuantee that. Why would they make a tranny and turbo that much more then the already available DR. Evil Tranny and Comptech S/C?
And the Neon your talking about is FWD also. I have a qeustion though, Since when would turbo charging a car make it limited to straight line racing? The RX-7 is turbo, The Skyline Turbo, The Evo Turbo. All of those cars are great on the track and not just in straight lines. :)
 
^
RX-7 - RWD
Skyline - AWD
EVO - AWD
STI - AWD

av6 - FWD, not really a good track car (too much understeer), awd will do better. so will rwd
 
tw02av6 said:
^
RX-7 - RWD
Skyline - AWD
EVO - AWD
STI - AWD

av6 - FWD, not really a good track car (too much understeer), awd will do better. so will rwd
Yes the are all not FWD, EXECPT the SRT-4 witch is still a good track car. My argument is a FWD is just as good as any other! Look at the Mini Cooper FWD and will hand alot of high powered RWD and AWD cars there ass's. Look at the EG6 they have pulled under the 1 min. marker at the Tsukuba Circuit, Witch is a VERY VERY big acomplishment!! FOR ANY CAR!! :)

I'm not trying to start a debate, I'm just saying Don't count the FWD platform out, It has alot of potential!! :D
 
^
yes in general FWD is kick azz!!
i love them!!
BUT thats in general, if u get into specific then AV6 is a bad FWD car. the mini will outdo it on the track and circuit. almost and car will. av6 just isnt set up the right way to be a good FWD. if u invest loads of money into it then it is but then y spend so much wen u can get a factory FWD thats kick azz??
 
tw02av6 said:
^
yes in general FWD is kick azz!!
i love them!!
BUT thats in general, if u get into specific then AV6 is a bad FWD car. the mini will outdo it on the track and circuit. almost and car will. av6 just isnt set up the right way to be a good FWD. if u invest loads of money into it then it is but then y spend so much wen u can get a factory FWD thats kick azz??
It depends on your suspension alot. My zeal B6 coilovers on setting 6 with the CT rear sway bar is pretty damn solid. It also depends on your definition of loads of money. I've spent around $2200.00 on suspension, IMO that's not that much at all. All I have as far as suspension goes is Zeal coilovers and CT rear sway bar. Alot of people may think thats alot of money for just some coilovers and a sway bar, but it's really not.

I would rather spend alot of money on this car because it's different, it's not your typical modified platform. Just my opinion :D
 
Plati you should also pick up a rear lower tie bar like the OBX one, and a Cusco front lower tie bar.

Those two really work, plus a strut-bar is also useful.

here is my setup:

Comptech Springs
$270 shipped
Blistein HD Shocks (These are so awesome !)
$400Shipped
Eibach Strut Bar
$80 shipped
OBX Rear Lower Tie Bar
$40 shipped
Cusco Front Lower Tie Bar
$120 shipped

I have not even spent a grand,yet my car feels incredible. The right mods always help.
 
GT_Arun said:
The bigger the wheel, the more it weighs, and the more your performance is decreased -> That's simple rotational mechanics and properties of inertia. Certain wheel manufacturers build wheels which are incredibly strong while super lightweight... those are ideal, but cost an @ss-ton (but would allow you to run bigger wheels without the weight penalties).
you mean if a 15" rim vs 17" rim both weigh the same = zero loss of performance..
that doesn't make sense..

you still need the more energy to rotate the 17" verus the 15"

btw: BBK also increase the loss of performance -
but ART of modding.. is give and take (PRO vs CON)
 
wildpikachu said:
you mean if a 15" rim vs 17" rim both weigh the same = zero loss of performance..
that doesn't make sense..

you still need the more energy to rotate the 17" verus the 15"
Actually if both 15" and 17" rims with tires have the same overall diameter (theoretically, I say that because its hard to get exactly), then the 17" would require less energy because it has less tire mass on the outside which ways more than the wheel itself so you can argue that since the 15" rim weighs 18lbs (pretty sure it does), and so does the 17" rim the 15" rim has a thicker tire and thats more weight on the outside then the 17" rim.

That is assuming that the 205/65/15 tire weighs moire then the 17" rim tire.
Usually bigger rim combos do weigh more though.
 
Accord_V6_400m said:
Actually if both 15" and 17" rims with tires have the same overall diameter (theoretically, I say that because its hard to get exactly), then the 17" would require less energy because it has less tire mass on the outside which ways more than the wheel itself so you can argue that since the 15" rim weighs 18lbs (pretty sure it does), and so does the 17" rim the 15" rim has a thicker tire and thats more weight on the outside then the 17" rim.

That is assuming that the 205/65/15 tire weighs moire then the 17" rim tire.
Usually bigger rim combos do weigh more though.
you are right.. depending on the PSI on the 17" verus 15" + weight of the tire itself.
I'm going to stop it here :) just for all our sakes! but feel free to continue on :)
 
platinum said:
I would rather spend alot of money on this car because it's different, it's not your typical modified platform. Just my opinion :D
i feel the same way about my car. rock on! :up2:
 
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