Remove the radiator plug at the bottom of the radiator. Let old cooland drain.
Remove the radiator fill cap and insert a garden hose to it.
Disconnect the upper radiator hose, attach any larger hose to the upper radiator hose using a hose clamp (do this just so old coolant and water can be routed away from the car)
Reinstall radiator drain plug.
Turn on the hose (head to hose should be removed)
Turn the car on and set heater settings on HIGH (allows heating core and entire cooling system to be flushed).
Let car and hose run until everything coming out of the upper radiator hose is clear water (takes about 2-4 minutes).

Prestone sells a kit for like 5 dollars that you can get at any auto store. It's just a plastic t-fitting that attaches to the upper radiator hose to attach a hose, and an attachment that allows the coolant to drain from the fill cap. I never purchased it, but I think it works for our car. Oh yeah, BTW, only flush the coolant with the car cool, never when the car's hot.

 

thank you very much coupev6, finally someone answered my question.


also, is there any pressure relief valve that I have to open to bleed the system??

 

Yes, it's a bleeder bolt on the back of your block. Why are you flushing your coolant, since it says you have a 2001...???

 

Yes, it's a bleeder bolt on the back of your block. Why are you flushing your coolant, since it says you have a 2001...???

Isnt it a good maintenance to flush it every couple of years?? or should I just wait till another couple of years???

edit: my car is almost 3 years old.

 

I'm pretty sure my helms service manual says either 105K or 120K at the first radiator flush...

 

I've yet to perform a full "flush" and I have 60k on the clock. I just drain and refill every 30K......a full drain, including the block (getting at the block drain valve is a pain in the a$$....coolant ends up all over the place, including on you). I run a mix of Red Line Water Wetter, distilled water and Honda coolant.

 

we should sticky this

 

so, if i just wanna drain and add new ATF, i just follow this?
1. remove radiator cap
2. remove pet-cock on da bottom of radiator and allow it to drain,
3. refill radiator and reservoir with nedded 50 50 coolant/water mix.
4. add new ATF

do i need to flush with water altho i am just draining and replacing with new ATF?

 

Lou, you're getting your liquids mixed up....ATF (Automatic Tranny Fluid) is drained from a different bolt and added in a bolt with "ATF" on the cap. The coolant, if just a drain and fill, is drained right below the radiator, a 'spicket' sort of deal, and filled on top of the radiator. The bleeder valve is right behind the block to let out excess steam etc. and is accessible under the hood.

 

woops, my bad. i feel like a newbie.....
2 things then: how hard is it to drain the ATF?

2nd_ do i need to bleed the radiator? and how often should i drain and fill?

 

Draining the ATF is just like an oil change, if you're not flushing out the system (basically using the same brand of fluid). The bleeder valve for the coolant is just so excess pressure is let out when you flush/drain & fill the coolant. I don't have my Helms manual at the moment, but I swear the first one (I have a 2001) is at 105K, and then 20K thereafter...I'll confirm later...

 

so, i am at 24k. what should i have done

if i drain and refill tranny fluid, will it shift better?

 

The bleeder valve is right behind the block to let out excess steam etc. and is accessible under the hood.

Are we talking about the same thing here (bleeder valve vs. block drain plug)? The block drain plug that I'm talking about is located on the back side of the block (the cabin side of the lower engine block). I have found that the best way to get at the block drain plug is from down under. You don't have to back the plug out all the way to drain all the coolant from the block......the plug has a weep hole that the coolant will flow from. Per the Helm manual, you should attach a small hose (say 3/8") to drain plug to direct the coolant into a pan......easier said than done. I can't see how the block drain plug would ever serve as a bleeder, cuz it closes up rather tight.

If you're just going to drain and refill, you should drain the coolant from both the rad and the engine block.....a fair amount of coolant sits in the engine block.

 

No....the valve I'm talking about is to let out excess pressure when running your coolant after a change.

 

yup, i'm lost

 

Ok, I have my service manual with me, the engine coolant replacement is 45K, 75K, and 105K. Lou, according to my manual(I have a 2001, but it should be the same), you basically have nothing to worry about except oil changes and tire rotations until 30K. As a side note, it's highly recommended to change your tranny fluid every 10K instead of the recommended 15K.

 

now, whats involved with changing the tranny fluid

btw, thanx for your help guys

 

You will need 2.5 quarts of tranny fluid. Jack up your car like an oil change and put a receptacle under the drainage area. Ok, to find the ATF drainage bolt, look head on at your driver's side front tire, underneath, go towards the left, past the frame bar, but before the oil drain bolt, you will see a circular bolt with a square notch. I hope this makes sense. Take that bolt out(I used a breaker bar, didn't need a bit), wipe out all the metallic debris from the bolt head and let it drain. Replace the bolt. Near the ATF dipstick, sort of northeast of it, find the bolt marked ATF, screwed flat. Unscrew it, fill it, turn the engine and shift through all gears, and you're done! I hope this helps without pics...