Was the switch itself bad ? I Ask cause this happended on my truck. The switch moved forward some how and all I had to do was adjust it forward a couple tabs. Moving it forward allowed the button to be depressed fully...problem solved.

Very nice write up BTW.

 

It may or may not have been bad... I didn't really look at it until I had already ordered the new one. The only reason why I ordered a new one was mainly because...

1) Their history of being known to be problematic on our generation (and to me anything related to brakes/signaling/lights/etc. is a major safety concern which gets top priority in always being 100% working/inspected routinely)

2) The price for a new one is so cheap

3) The install/replacement literally takes < 5 minutes (Stealership charges an hour+ of labor for this install?? :gotme: Psh.)

4) I had to run to the dealership anyhow to get some more DW-1 haha

But yea, you're absolutely right, I may have been able to just re-adjust it further up and it could've been fine. *shrugs* Oh well, next time I'll try that first - I did keep the old one, too. haha

and thanks for the compliment bud! :yes:

 

Good write up....I actually went through that about 6 months ago. And yes the stealership wanted to charge 1 hour of labor well actually they wanted to drop off the car and then tell me that I need that switch and many other stuff on my car..

 

When I did this, I didn't have to remove the steering wheel column panel. Just the piece underneath.

 

if you don't mind me asking how many miles you had when this went out on you?

 

I'm currently at 56k

 

In my 14 years of driving I've had this happen to me on 2 cars (when the brake lights would stayilluminated even with the car off) and both times I just taped a penny to the blue/purple tab (quick fix) and never had another problem after that BUT I never knew the brake switches were cheap. They always seemed expensive to me for some reason.

Good write up

 

This morning the vsa light came on and I noticed (since it was dark) the brake light didn't go off. I'm going to check if it might of moved. If not that will be the 2nd switch I replace in 3 years.

 

Do you know how much this part is at the dealer?

 

Did your check engine light come on as well? If so what code was it throwing? I am having mine throw a code and the code it says it is is the pedal sensor. I replaced it twice and I am still having the same problem. The VSA light doesnt always come on but when it does I get the check engine light and it runs in limp mode.

 

Ever since fixing mines, the bottom panel seems to sag off lower once in a while. I'm thinking of just removing it because it sometimes drops near my foot when I brake. Not sure if its just because it's old and the plastic can't hold anymore.

 

Good stuff here.

 

It's not the switch it's the thread in the bracket in which you put the switch I had the same issue.

 

What you mean?

 

my problem is much like the original poster, but i have no light on my dash telling me of a problem.

 

I just had this issue and fixed it without replacing the switch. I only found out I had a problem when a coworker told me while pulling into work that my brake lights weren't on. The circuit in the switch had been making sparatic connections so I was given no warning light on the dash.

I removed the switch as directed above and then simply took it apart using a flat head screwdriver to pry it apart. I cleaned the switch using carburetor cleaner (I know, not the best) and cue tips. I then applied some silicone grease and put the switch back together. Works just fine now.